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the faceplate sits at and angle so that the top of the ear portion of the faceplate lines up with the horizontal line on the side of the visor and he bottom of the ear portion on the faceplate lines up with the bottom of the return edge on the visor(see 2nd pic i posted above) the gap up top looks close ... you might need to trim more to get the visor to be able to open without scrapping the helmet

ahhh, i found the thread with the WTF helmet i posted those pics in ... http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=18722

chopper gave some solid advice. i will add .... ~ for the return edge on the visor you will want that to be about 1/2" wide. i would get that correct first so, you can fit the faceplate and for testing/fitment purposes. if not your width will be off and the faceplate wont sit inside the visor correctly ~ the top of the ear on the faceplate sits on the bump on the side of the visor and the bottom of the ear should sit to the back of the bottom of the visor corner ~ you will want the width of the helmet to be the same width as your visor at the bolt area. ~ there is a few areas to attach the 2 sides together with. one is the faceplate itself... but, you will need a spacer on the top of the visor to get the faceplate in the correct position. the spacer is the main part holding the 2 halves together. it sits in front of the faceplate. for reference ... this is an RS spacer ... your WTF spacer may need to be thinner, different radius .. the red square is showing a piece of abs scrap i use in that return edge to prevent that seam from cracking here is some references i made abit ago for a member here (i cant remember the helmet but its built the same and you have the same issue he did) ~ bottom of ear of faceplate lining up with the bottom of the visors return edge -- NOTE, the RIGHT side is correct, left still needs to go back abit heres the same issue you have with the width of the helmet and visor. your visor width needs to match the "W" i marked on the helmet. yellow shows what possibly could get cut away and the blue shows how far the visor needs to go back

first coat done ... 5-7 days de-gas period for the paint ... so, i will get to do a light sand on it in a couple days and get the final coat on it next week

well, there is something about the symmetry of these helmets that is off ... all my kits i have built need different work on the right side to get them to close properly, some very little work others needed major work. check out my build thread and youll see a heat method i use to get the visor to close. you can also, adjust the bolt hole in the helmet to get a better side profile line. looking good

yes, it does look like you could raise the armor a little. im not sure you need to undo the pouches, just raise the cummerbund and pouches up to so they touch the chest armor and then your belt will come up too ... the TB belt is not like a normal belt, the TB belt will sit higher on your body

good day .. i got the first coat of primer on it, tomorrow sand and prime again. hopefully, ill get the white on this thing this week

your almost there ... i think what you need to work on is your dressing issues. ~ pull the elbow armor around to the front -- grreblie seats more to the side, not to the back ~ swing the drop boxes around to the side ~ lift the drop boxes up -- ideally 1" 1 1/2" gap from the belt ~ lift the knees abit and lastly if you can lift the cummerbund/pouches up abit(top of pouch to bottom of chest armor) and with that move the belt up it will allow you to move your cod piece up too ... so, it isnt want to bunch up. ** keep the cod piece flat across your crotch area, dont let it curve in and under your crotch ... and dont pull the elastic strap so tight, that will help with keeping the cod flat. keep at it ... you got this!

well, its been a crazy around with the weather and now the pollen and i have not had the chance to finish this helmet ... fingers crossed this weekend will be decent paint weather.... anyways, some update pics ... 2nd bondo coat and 3rd spot putty coat, prepped for primer. also, atm, the ukwraths mic will not be installed ... the volume of the device doesnt give much of a difference than when speaking normal ... and some ... bbb's

we have our logo ...

RS should be fine for you ... they are abit tight to get on but, theres plenty of room once its on ... for reference i wear a 7 1/4" hat size, i have to pull the helmet open slightly to get it on.

1" from the bell to shoulder strap should do ... remember though, the armor is all about how it looks on you. some troopers may need to have a 1 1/2" to make it look correct on their body. the elbow/bicep armor sits right at the end of the flak vest arm the caps are wider than the tubing and try imgur or similar photo hosting websites to host your pics ... good luck ... and look forward to seeing our pics and build progress

i let you wait for strider ... go have some and wait abit

looking good! for my rs builds i use a multipurpose bondo found at most hardware stores .. not the auto parts body filler bondo! the trick is to not lay it on thin and pull your edges tight ... sand a little, feather your edge out and lay on another thin layer. this reduces alot of sanding. i tried apoxie sculpt .. its not good for parts that require a little flex(main helmet), the apoxie sculpt will crack. on the seam good luck

hardest part is over with ... looking good!

i had to rework some pouches too ... reuse what you have, flip them inside out, remove the stitching, make new lines, resew them to the dimension bikerscout007 gave you ezpz

everyones different with how they prep their armor ... for me ... i draw a pencil line on the inside of the formed mould edge and then i use a new razor blade and exacto knives and fine tune with sandpaper. its easy enough to get close to the line and work your way to it with sandpaper. some people use a router bit on a dremel, others use dremel with cutoff wheels.... use whatever works best for you and what your comfortable with doing good luck!

the weathering may be abit to much for lancer ... i have seen a couple applications that the review team requested to remove some of the weathering. maybe, one of them could chime in here to let you know?

hello, if you want to reach out to chef, he is a member here on the forums. send him a message. as far as the Hq armor, i can not help you with that set. also, check out this thread for other armor makers that most of us scouts use around here. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=17774 good luck!

awesome, good job, looks very nice!

nice, and yes, your missing some pieces. for some reason RS has stopped adding the checklist to the kit. the first 2 kits i received had the list, the last 3 did not have the check list. i created one and print it out for each kit that did not have a checklist as well, put a serial number sticker on the list ... i will post the list below. they have also started to add extra(5) serial number stickers to the kits, thanks to yours truly i use them for the certificate of authenticity(place it on the back), checklist and inside the helmet the black folder they send has one already applied to the inside of it. it only makes sense to me to have the other paperwork, esp, certification of authenticity, have corresponding serial number. so, it looks like your missing: ~ small sheet for filler ~ 2x cover strips ~ chin cup ~ 1 center top ~ 1 peak join ~ snout greeblie ~ spare water slide decal set (i see 1... you should have 2) ~ cut line details(black barcode sticker that goes on back of helmet) they only send 1 of these ~ do you have 2 rivets and 2 washers in the small bag? ~ paperwork, certificate, serial numbers i have heard of the RS bolts breaking, so, you may want to consider ordering a new set of screen accurate visor bolts from KW Designs here, http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10270 just follow his instructions on his first post. i tell you ... send andrea a message on RS's facebook page ... she is awesome to deal with and probably will be able to help you out with the missing parts/pieces/paperwork. she has helped with extra serial number stickers on all my kits, 2 busted snout greeblies, and a delayed package. if the person you bought the kit from doesnt want to send you the other pieces/parts/paperwork. let her know who you got the kit from and she might be able to get you serial numbers/pamphlet folder/certificate of authenticity too, its worth a shot and doesnt hurt to ask. RS is pretty awesome to deal with and its nice to have a company that cares and listens to the customers in this costuming community! here is their original checklist: Scout Helmet Kit Contents Check List Vac Formed Parts Left Hand Helmet Side Right hand Helmet Side Left Hand Peak Side Right Hand Peak Side Face Chin Cup ABS 2 x cover Strips 1 Centre Top 1 Peak join Small sheet for filler Fixings 2 x Rivets (12x4) 2 Washers 2 Replica welding mask fixings Accessories Visor material Hard Hat liner Water Slide Decals (with spare) Cut line details Replica Snout Greeblie 1" black elastic and some pics of the entire kit and original checklist and since my talks with RS about the serial numbers they have also added that information to the Certification of Authenticity ... here is the first certification compared to the newest certification, i added the serail number to the back and now RS is adding that info on a new line at the bottom of the certification. anyways, i hope RS can help you out with the pieces you need and good luck!

good job. with the TD end caps make sure they are concave as that is a lancer requirement. it is hard to tell from your picture if they are.

my visor gap on one my many RS helmets... working on my 5th and 6th kit build and they open and lock fully! now, i dont see where a comprimise had to be made just because it made out of fiberglass...its just an excuse for poor craftsmanship! even the cheek flair is poor craftsmanship. if you pride yourself in your work and see problems like these then you would have addressed the problem and corrected them. this just shows me(us) that efx only cared about the money side of this project! its pretty upsetting to see companies push out a products like this to their community!

Alright, so we have a new name nailed down. 10th C.A.R.T. 10th for Virginia being 10th in the union C. for Composite being made up of various parts and elements A.R.T. being the Advance Recon Team I just made a public post across all of our squads, to hopefully draw our pathfinder members in and get this group running