Chopper

I believe that's correct, or at least that's what was indicated in the costumes book. The moulds above are described as safety moulds, likely for back up purposes.

True, and to be honest, looking back at this example posted on starwarshelmets, the visor slot looks pretty large on that one as well. Probably me just over thinking it.

I figured it might be interesting as a reference source, so I'll be on the look out for additional close up images. One interesting item that stands out to me is how big the visor hole is on the mould. Just conjecture on my part, but I wonder if this mould was used for the rubber stunt helmet? That was one of the scout helmet variations, which featured a bigger visor hole. I'll add more images as I come across them.

Nice find on the video. Also, here's an additional image that should give you a good idea on proportions.

The finish on that resin print does look really good. There are a few 3D holdout blasters out there and I know at least one of them is severely undersized. The SC holster is also oversized when compared to the RS lineage version, so that gets you into the situation you're in now Interesting solution. I've seen magnets used most frequently. Some folks have constructed brackets that fit inside the lip as well. Way to think outside of the box with your take on it though.

Good work, Paul and welcome! We look forward to your application.

Hi Paul, overall you did a really great job! I don't believe you will have any issues with basic clearance. Now, what I'm posting below are refinements, and I'm giving you this feedback b/c you said you were interested in going for Lancer down the road (good for you!). Check the curve on your cod -- the end of the arc on your left seems higher than the end of the arc on your right Your back armor seems low in comparison to the front -- you may need to look at trimming the bridges so they sit a bit more evenly. Just eyeballing, but that looks like 1.5" elastic in the bicep armor? That is absolutely not an issue for basic clearance, but you will want to upgrade if you go for Lancer. Again, just a few things, all refinements to keep in mind for level 2. None of it should prevent you from basic clearance. Excellent work!!!! I hope you receive your TB approval soon!

Yeah, drilling it out is the way I've always done it. It also helps if you have a carbon steel drill bit, which should make it a lot easier as well.

Congrats on your weight loss, Cole. That's a great achievement. I've looked through the photos you posted on the RPF thread. Here are few notes I have that could improve your costume -- Is your bund tucked under your belt? I think your bund should come up maybe an inch or two. However, based on the back photo, it may be a bit too small on you? Your cod is quite long and looks very straight. It should also come up more so that it's lying flat on the front of your body with the strap just at about at your crotch. However, I suspect that if you pull your cod up more, the inverted curve will likely be under your belt. This may need to be re-stitched, but figure out the proper positioning first. Another question, is there any sort of stiffener material in the cod? That may help as well. Your pouches look large -- I can't see clearly, are they sewn to the bund? While for basic clearance there are no strict requirements on pouch size, 6x5x2" is the ideal. Since this is not a level 1 requirement, my primary suggestion is that they at least be proportional to the space between your chest armor and your belt. The legs on your suit look quite large. I recommend that you bring them in some more. Also, I can't tell from the photo, do you have the thigh straps and suede riding patches? Maybe you're waiting on more sizing feedback before adding them? I am a little concerned about the rivets you've used to connect your chest and back armor, which is not a typical method for connecting them. I recommend using adhesive velcro underneath the armor and a strip of non-adhesive velcro to join the front and back together. Once the rivets are removed, you can fill the rivet holes using ABS paste. For final submission, you will also need to cover the shoulder bridges with white fabric. There is not requirement for length for basic clearance. I also noticed that you used a rivet to connect the tank to the back armor. This wouldn't normally be an issue, but typically the rivet is run through the tank tooper greeblie, like so: And if it helps, here's some marking to try and illustrate what I've written above. I really hope this helps. It may seem like a lot, but at the end of this, you'll be in great shape. Keep up the good work, Cole.

Shelby, great work on the vest. One small thing to note, and this should be an easy fix, but the CRL specifically calls for black velcro. "Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener."

Nice work so far! You're getting the tough stuff out of the way, so once you pick up your armor, the rest should be easy!

Looks like a decent start on the ears, but you could trim them out a bit more. Here's some more reference photos of the screen helmet that should help.

Ok, I found the old guide for upgrading the Don Post/Rubies helmet. As I mentioned, the process is quite involved, which is why it's less common these days. Don Post/Rubies Scout Helmet Modification Guide

That's the old Don Post/Rubies vinyl helmet. Can you get approved with it? Yes. However, it will take significant modifications and reinforcements to the shape to do so. You don't see them that often anymore bc the amount of work to get them approved offsets the price -- that and there are a lot of other scout helmet options available these days. I'll look for the thread where someone modded their helmet and post it here.

You can trim down to your marked trim lines on the helmet. You should leave a return edge, but your marked lines look ok. Here's a few photos of one of the original helmets. You can use that as a reference:

Your trim lines look good. 👍 Either will work. I personally prefer lexan scissors for most of my trimming, then I file down the rough parts with a heavy duty emory board.

Yes indeed, that is the chin cup!

SC helmets run on the smaller side, so if you need a larger helmet, talk to Spike on the forums for an Altmann helmet. There are other options as well, but the Altmann/SC combo is a popular set up.

Try sending her a PM. Her sale thread is here:

Yes indeed, absolutely.

Hey there, good work on your progress so far.

Here's the redkap suit: Red Kap Men's Long Sleeve Twill Action Back Coverall, Black, 54 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EZ1LVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLmwDbW5HFMK8

You don't necessarily need drop cloth. I went to jo-ann's and used white duck canvas.

Kriptontop = Christian CucBlack While I can recommend his soft goods, which are quite excellent, his armor and helmet are constructed from thin HIPS plastic, which, as a material, is prone to cracking and breaking.

In short, no, not without a significant amount of work. Also, in my searching there were some references to the molds being from star fortress productions. Google them if you're curious why they should be avoided at all costs!!!