Chopper

Just a question, but did you use chicago screws to attach your holster?

The vendor has updated their files to fix the issues we raised. It's not the best model, but it should meet basic clearance requirements.

@Aradun

Reminder to wear some respiratory protection if you do that. Resin dust is toxic.

Looks solid

"Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed." means it's your choice as to which width you want to use. Either are acceptable. For 2 kits, I doubt you'd need more than 2 yards of most types, in total. That'll also give you some wiggle room if you cut a section too short and need more. The ribbed elastic type is this style: https://www.etsy.com/listing/51705512/black-34-1-1-14-strong-non-roll-elastic The 1.5" elastic is not very particular, this is the style: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1092833089/beyond-trim-sewing-elastic-knit-elastic 1.5" polypro webbing for the drop boxes. Will prob need 4 yards for 2 kits: https://www.etsy.com/listing/772977966/white-polypro-strapping-1-12-wide-by Buckles, use these: https://www.amazon.com/J-CARP-Release-Adjustable-Replacement-Backpack/dp/B09JZ92HK5?th=1

Glad you tested it first. Good thinking.

I can't recall exactly how high I can raise my arms, but it's not necessarily all the way over my head. And while it is true that you have more flexibility in a scout vs a stormtrooper, you should not expect full flexibility while wearing the scout soft goods and armor.

Congrats on your approval

Ah oils. Ok. If you want to be conservative, I'd give it maybe 5-7 days to fully dry.

What sort of paint did you use? Drying times will vary depending on the type of paint. That said, 2 weeks to dry would be pretty excessive for most paints.

If you used standard hardware store spray paints, then that weathering is not coming off. Acetone and other chemical based paint removers will take it off, but will also melt the armor. Don't do it. You can try wiping it with 90% iso alcohol, but that will depend on how heavy the weathering is. if your weathering is on the heavier side, your only other option is to wet sand the armor with 600+ grit sandpaper, prime and repaint the armor in white, and then once dried, start applying the mando scout weathering techniques.

Yep, you're done. Leave it and move to the other ear.

Looks good. Keep it up.

Yeah, that's quite warped and would need to be straightened out. Same with the vertical vanes as well. Can you see the faint ridge along the side edge? That's about the thickness that the tank topper should be. It's something around 1/8" in thickness.

I can't tell how much of the underside has been ground down, particularly on the tank topper, but the rest looks fine. It also looks like there's some bubbles and pin holes in the casts. You should try and fill those with apoxiesculpt or other filler putties.

Yes, that's fine. The recess shouldn't be there, but some vendors put it there to help with drawing the white circle. You'll need something to keep your bolts in place. The ones in the photo are just the nuts used by the 3M rotator bolts. They're on the inside of the helmet, so it doesn't matter what's used.

How is your strapping currently set up? If you have velcro on both sides of your side straps, then you should just be able to pull the straps out. If yours isn't set up like that, then you can rig it that way and then you can remove your straps whenever you want.

There's quite a bit of mold flash and remnants on those. With proper finishing, those greebs will clear, though it's going to take some sanding to finish the edges and the undersides. If you want to save yourself some time and energy, you can get a set from Studio Creations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html

Have you already looked at the photos in the gallery, here? http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

It is not strictly defined, but they should be at an equal distance. Since the CRL is a visual and written guide, they should be close to what's depicted in the vest section -- in other words, something like 50mm spacing between ribs won't fly. For reference, I got my vest from KriptonTop and the ribs are spaced at 22mm.

The black strap connects to the back of your bund or your flightsuit. I have not seen a specific suit up guide or video for the mando scout. You can use the CRL photos for how it's supposed to look. The cummerbund is positioned about halfway over and under your belt. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Scout-Trooper-The-Mandalorian

The length of the shoulder bells looks okay, but yes, the width seems to be on the bigger side. The bells on the film armor, which the RS suit is derived from, were fairly wide as well. I would start getting the rest of your costume fitted and sized up, before you trim the bells. And for the flak vest, the width of the bells doesn't matter anyhow.

FYI, none of the images you posted are displaying.

That is the right amount of weathering. Congrats on successfully avoiding the charbroiled look 😁.