TK8271 Rogue Trooper

Very nice Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have saw a KB kit, it’s a decent enough kit. All prop makers need some form of modification to their kits , some more than others. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Glad they arrived Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hopefully you will be able to match the samples I sent Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

If you PM me you address I will sort something for you. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Paul Moore (UK Garrison) he is on Facebook and on the imperial Scarif Battalion, The Rogue One Shoretrooper Resource Group on Facebook. Paul has 850 armour and is currently making the many modifications to upgrade the armour etc to level 2. Give him a shout I am sure he will give you the low down. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have a look through some of the WIP’s , that’s should get you started Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Two of the pictures (ST Capt and ST) used on the current CRL’s are level 2 Vanguard and if there was ever a level 3 they would both qualify as they are already well above level 2. There is no doubt Paul’s is a fantastic build and it’s a great example for members to follow, hence why I asked him to continue to share his great work. Paul is a great member of this group but unfortunately is not currently a 501st member. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You have mentioned the hose for the left box but don’t forget the small cylinder teeth strip greeblie on the right box, that’s often missed 😉 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Pm sent Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As said above I would be carful of modding a real airsoft weapon for Trooping. There are better options out there, as for the flash light , I am not sure what you have read but it is clearly written a flash light is required : E-11B Blaster For 501st approval: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, cast, 3D print or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Tactical flashlight (Surefire scout M300 or replica) mounted on right side of barrel. Magazine is extended length. Power cylinder is larger with 2 outer cylinders and 2 smaller central cylinder Scope is a M38 1943 version. Scope rail can be fitted with rail blocks and a middle rail support block is optional. For level two certification (if applicable): Base is based on S&T Airsoft sterling with closed working parts (no spring) Screws used are M4 x 25mm Allen screw/bolts and sunken Allen screws for power cylinders. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This saddens me greatly and is terrible news, Jim was a gentleman and a great person he was always there for me and helped me when rewriting the CRL for the Shoretrooper he always made time for you no matter what. The Legion will be a lesser place without him, much love to his family. Rest in Peace brother. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I personally would not know as I have not got one, hopefully someone can share that info. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The evidence is clear and shows the differences are the same wether stunt used on screen, or the hero version, they still have the same differences. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

please be aware that the E11B for the Shoretrooper has a number of differences to the original ANH E11

Hi and welcome Sister Margret gasket Emporium on Facebook does both Along with imperial boots. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Weathering looks good mate, I have found with the ST some can over weather it and it does not look as good. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That’s the stuff mate Glyn Dillon told us how they got that blue grey 1. Primer layer and let dry 2. Himalaya blue layer and let dry 3. A very very light dusting of Matt black 4. A light spray of ageing spray The ageing spray is what chemically interacts with the other layers and gives it that blue grey colour . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good mate For the blue , have you got yourself some grey ageing spray ? To get that correct blue look as that is the magic ingredient Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes use the eye bags , however as you have noted it should not go all the way across the middle. I would cut them off where you have noted as that would be more accurate

That was one of the issues with CE and a lot of other parts , people used the one reference , however the Capt has the arrow shaped front Promo shots Most important is the screen shot So using all the references we have , we can assume that the one at CE was a weapon mistake or it broke off at the end.

You have the plate but the middle M has been missed Here it is from Rogue One book And from CE , I have one from SDC that’s shows the other side but can’t find it for the life of me , but you can see how the M Plate comes down and covers the forward screw Also as a secondary a good reference is sideshow collectibles / Gentle Giant because as we know they get a full scan of the armour and weapons. Using those with the screen shot photos we can see how the M plates fit Sideshow collection Gentle Giant

I have left you a few improvements on your other post but will put it here also for those looking Nice work on the E22. I few observations if you wish to improve it Remove the circle adjustment on the scope as it makes it the wrong scope version , the correct version.is M38 1943 The cover plate is a M shape that covers the forward screws Sling lug at the front on both sides Again M Plate Needs cocking handle Again sling lug

Nice work on the E22. I few observations if you wish to improve it Remove the circle adjustment on the scope as it makes it the wrong scope version , the correct version.is M38 1943 The cover plate is a M shape that covers the forward screws Sling lug at the front on both sides Again M Plate Needs cocking handle Again sling lug

Yes this is correct , one if the guys who wore it mentioned it , but it was useless because as soon as you walked it popped off so they stopped using it lol