Retrofire

Good point Shada! I did use more Velcro than I thought I needed. Both the adhesive and the sew on. You use the adhesive backed stuff on your hard armor but you'll want to have the sew on type for your strapping as it makes a stronger bond and it's less likely to tear off. I got the two inch and just cut it down to any size I needed.

Thanks Michael! Still much work to do......sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding...repeat

If you're getting SC armor a lot of those items are included in the kit (i.e. velcro, elastic, etc) so you may want to prepare your tools such as rivet gun, rivets, E6000 adhesive, shoe goo (for boots), X-Acto set (get some chisel blades), 220-400 grit sandpaper, clamps, and other assorted items first. Since I wanted to go Lancer some items I did add was 0.5" elastic for the knees, snaps for attaching my drop boxes (this isn't required for Lancer it's just the way I decided to attach them to the belt). A good idea might be to look through a few build threads and that will help give you a better idea of what is needed. PandaTrooper's Thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781 Forest Ranger's Thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14850 Shada's Thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=15005 My Thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14946 We all kinda of have different methods to our Scout madness as you'll see but we all came to same results.

I have been checking out cooling vests from a company called Glacier Tek. Anyone ever seen or used one of these? They look pretty interesting. A little expensive though. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian. I still think that's a slick method of installing a liner and with the Velcro it makes it slightly adjustable as well.

No. I never painted my SC armor. Just the TD tube and the retangle on the chest but SC provides a decal for that and you can use that if you prefer. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I spent some time sanding today. I started with 100 and 220 grit to work on some of the Bondo I applied over the weekend. I used my sealing iron to flatten the deep return on the lip of the visor and then trimmed it and sanded it down to square it up. I also spent some time on the faceplate around the lens. It looks better but I think I need to smooth out the upper right corner a bit as it looks a bit square if that makes sense. Thoughts? I would appreciate and insight/critiques to make this lid better. Thanks! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It's the ART of the Pathfinder build we're trying to achieve! So when they see us they think "Holy Star Destroyers I gotta know how I can be a TB/CB. Those troopers are the bomb!"

Oops Sorry! If you head over there and look in costume supplies there should be a band in there and it shows it with the hard hat pieces cut out.

I think TB just gets a regular hard hat, pulls out the liner and then cuts off the four (in my liner) attachment points on the hat. You glue the four attachments into your lid using CA or hot glue and voila' instant liner. You can see what I mean here: https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/hard-hat-liner-for-helmets. You can find a hard hat at Lowes for anywhere between $6-$10 or like Tim mentioned I bet a welding supply would have liners as well.

Hi Sumiko! I use a hard hat liner that I got from Trooperbay in my Altmann's. You can find one at Lowes or Home Depot and trim it yourself with a Dremel and save yourself some money. Kevin has the TB headband and 3M bolt kits here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10270. I've also seen military helmet padding systems and motocycle padding systems that might work too. The liner I got from TB has been working fine for me itkeeps it off my nose and holds it secure upon my noggin. Maybe a padding system might be something you might want to try as it seems to secure the lid more like a cycle helmet rather than just a band. My only concern with something like that here in the desert is the heat and I'm pretty sure it gets toasty in FL as well. Hope this helped a little.

Nice work! Always great to see a blaster at the ready in a boot holster. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Smart move brother. I'm pretty sure I'll have to add it to avoid the dreaded boot sag. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I didn't use any. I have a pic,of the inside of my boot on my build thread if you're interested. I didn't use the Velcro since I had a Hyperfirm but I may to add it after my new blaster from DVH comes in. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I just use rivets with a piece of ABS inside the boot to give the rivets something to grip. You can also attach Velcro to the top part to help keep your boot from sagging depending on how heavy your blaster is. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Welcome to the BS.N forest Patrick! This is the place for all things pathfinders and is full of top notch folks to help you with your build. I would suggest heading over the Florida Garrison at http://fl501st.com/ and introducing yourself. If there is anything we can do to assist you please don't hesitate to let us know.

I would have been sooo mad if you didn't post your pre-approvals Cheyenne. You have worked so hard on this and you're a fellow class of May graduate of the Pathfinder basic like me. Your gear looks great and I bet that's an easy approval for your GML. Look forward to hearing you got the welcome e-mail from Coruscant!

When I sat down to being sanding I noticed this damage. The inside seam was pretty big and I had to use a larger amount of Bondo to fill it in and I believe that the chemical reaction caused the ABS to soften and melt in. I'll have to fill this in and sand it smooth. I'll go with another type of filler material that won't damage ABS. Possibly squadron green putty.

Thanks very much for the insight I really appreciate it! I have a lot more to do before I even get to paint starting with a ton of sanding both inside and out as well as some trimming.

So I take it I should not use Kylon oh bald one Thank you for the information! I've seen the results of Krylon on the Shadow Scout Jedi_Paramedic was working on for his son and that stuff scares me. I'll look for the duplicolor you mentioned. Correct me if I'm wrong but it should be a gloss white exterior and a gloss black snout outline correct? I'm going to paint the interior flat black.

Drama....ugh the best response to drama I can think of is a fully charged turbolaser battery.

I been thinking about how I could get a nice finish on this and that makes sense. I just don't know how I could apply it as I don't have the equipment. Is there another way to accomplish a finish like that without using a rattle can? That's helpful to know. Thanks!

Thanks Tim. I'm enjoying working on this lid. I learned and was taught so many great techniques here that I wanted to take this on and try something new. I am always game for advice from ya'll since you guys know your stuff and I'm just a learner!

Thanks Mickey! There is much more work to be done. Do you know what material the KS is made of? It doesn't have the rigidity of ABS and cuts like paper using my lexan scissors. I plan on using the pics of your RS as a reference for my reno. For example, it looks like the visor has a return edge around the lip on the KS and I think I need to flatten this and square it up like my Altmann's. I need to do some more research. Back to the books (and pictures)!

BONDO! I wanted to clean up the seams on the interior. Why? Because I don’t like seams:) I also added Bondo to visor area and filled in a couple of dings on the top When I was working with the visor it seemed that the sides didn’t match so I measured and it turned out that one side was one centimeter larger than the other. I made a template by tracing the shorter side and used that to sketch a new cut line. My plan here is to take small slivers of material using my lexan scissors as I learned here that it’s easy to remove material but hard to replace it.