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Retrofire

Armoury Team
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Everything posted by Retrofire

  1. You're right on point Cheyenne I think we hit the "post" button at the same time . Looking forward to going Lancer with ya'll!
  2. I went with 1.5 cotton side straps per Chef (http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14953&hl=&fromsearch=1). Attach elastic to each side and you'll get some flex in your chest armor. I think the general rule is that you'll want your bridge straps to match but best let a Lancer weigh in on that one. I'm giving away 1.5 (white) and 1.75 webbing (off-white) if you need some (http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=15065&hl=&fromsearch=1).
  3. I got a helmet bag from Sgt Carida on the 501st Forum to protect my Altmann's from getting bounced around in my armor box. Here's the link if any are interested: http://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=85460 He does them custom depending on the trooper. I picked up a deluxe version and I'll report on the quality when it comes in if ya'll are interested.
  4. I'm a Lego SW junkie so I know exactly what you mean Nick!
  5. Stasz is right on point. If you have any questions or doubts before dropping coin give us a shout out. The armourers are the best folks to ask as they are experienced in all aspects of the gear and are looking out for the troops but you can let any of us know and we'll do our best to help. We have a saying "troopers helping troopers" so we look out for one another.
  6. I would suggest heading over to their website and go through their coupons and weekly deals you can save some pretty good money.
  7. You secure that talk trooper! Awkward indeed! It all depends. Some folks are a wiz with a sewing machine (I don't like those people because I stink at it ) and some with armor. I enjoyed working my armor making it look as good as I could and my skills lie in scale modeling and building so that was natural to me. I used a heat gun and sealing iron to do things like returns and molded the armor to fit my body shape. I had all my soft armor made by the talented folks here but did the rest myself. None of it will matter when you suit for the first time because you'll look freakin awesome!
  8. The first place to start is research, research, research. get to know the Costume Requirements Listing or CRL via this thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showforum=63 . This will help familiarize you with all the various parts of the Scout armor and sundries. From there start looking through the Biker Scout Armory which contains threads on the significant pieces that make the Scout up. It seems that most folks begin with their boots and work up from there but you can certainly move at the pace that best for you (and your wallet ). The most important thing not to lose sight of is keep it fun and realize how many folks you can touch by doing something you love to do. Check out this thread for an example: http://forum.bikersc...howtopic=15255. Hope this helps get you started.
  9. Well looks like Stasz got there before I did We're both wearing SC so it's good stuff and he's an armourer so he's in the know.
  10. Greetings Nick and welcome to the BS.N forest! It's great to have you! This is a great place to learn about all things Pathfinder and there are tons of folks here that are ready and willing to help you. I would encourage you to check out the Idaho Garrison at: www.idaho501st.com . The best advice I can give is to look around and get engaged with the folks around here. Check out the armory forums and build threads and you'll be able to hear from those that have gone before us what they did, used, and built. You'll need five posts to access the Trade Forum so make yourself at home here and if there is anything we can do to help please let us know.
  11. That's what I did to keep my suit from bagging up around the boot tops and knee armor. Nice work!
  12. It's like dense sponge if that makes any sense. I would avoid using E6000 or adhesives that use heavy chemicals like acatone. Why not give white glue such as Gorilla glue a shot first. The material should hold a bond well and it won't damage the materiel. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  13. I already mentioned a few items on your build thread but I noticed that your bicep armour looks a bit low. You might want to bring that up closer to the shoulder bell. The other item I noticed is that your TD is crooked and may just need a little adjustment to square it up. Looking good! How's it feel to wear the full kit? I know I was stoked and ready to chase me some Ewoks! Look forward to seeing you approved!
  14. Great job Brother! I really love how you did the liner in your lid that was really slick and something I may upgrade later. Here's a few items you may want to look at and a couple you've already touched on. Drop that left box a touch and bring it even with the right. Bring your bicep and forearm armor around and center it with your shoulder bell. The right pouch needs to be even with your belt line. Not sure if that's the one you have the Aker in. It looks crooked. Pull your flight suit down through your knee armour so it looks tight. I ended up putting some elastic in the legs of my flight suit so it would pull tight when I put my boots on to help avoid the "bagging" problem. You're more than ready for pre-approval brother! I don't see anything that would stop your GML from approving you. Now get that done and let's make a run at Lancer!
  15. Time to start your pre-approval thread.....YAY!
  16. The clips look great and it's awesome to see your belt assembly all together. I bet that flight suit can't get there fast enough
  17. Thanks Kris! Now it's your turn brother. I see that you're EIB/Centurion approved so I don't expect anything less than Lancer from you
  18. That's awesome Brother! I saw some photos but all I saw were TKs. Make sure you start a troop thread over in the Tree Doger section so you can get those counted towards your badge. The plan is to head over to Phoenix this August. I'm planning on going tp PCC in June so hopefully we can troop together there.
  19. Thanks for clarifing that Tim that's right on point! I keep to the CRLs here as well. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  20. It's really up to you. I felt that Lou's snout was more accurate than the stock Altmann's based on screen shots and the MoM exhibit so I went with that one. I also changed out the traps and the nose bridge as you did and also replaced the hook with the TB one as it looked better to me and the original was dinged up a little. The galleries have some great reference pictures from both ROTJ and the MoM exhibit. If you get a chance check them out it's worth a visit.
  21. The basic CRL doesn't define the rivet in the center of the tank topper but the Lancer spec does. All the Lancer's I've run across suggest building your basic as close to Lancer spec as you can as it's better to have it at that level than to have to go back and make it right after the fact. As far as your tank topper is concerned you will want to glue that down to make it as strong as possible. Pandatroopers build thread was the method I used to center and glue. After it dried I finished the painting and put the stripes on then I installed it to the back armor. You could probably do both at the same time just make sure that you use backing washers on the top and bottom of the rivet. This distributes the pressure so it's less likely to crack. Lou's (DVH) stuff is really well done and I would recommend him. I actually didn't end up using his topper as there was another trooper in need of one so I sent it off to him and I used the SC topper. I forgot to update my signature block so sorry for the confusion. I'm fine with the SC topper but I do have a DVH snout on my Altmann's and I have a blaster coming in from him so his stuff is top notch. Hope that helps you!
  22. Ralph, good question. Here's what the CRL states for Basic approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or weathered. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor. Top detail piece has a white painted circle and red line detail. The tank has a black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For Lancer the tank requirements are as follows: Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment rivet. I used the rivet method as that was the way I wanted to go but several have used the Velcro method and it's also great as well. The point is ensuring your tank sits "right" on the back of your armor. For Lancer it's important how the armor looks on you. I would go with the method you feel is best. You can always add a couple of "blind" rivets to meet the Lancer requirements after the tank is assembled. I hope that helps.
  23. That is one gorgeous shooting iron right there. Really nice work Jacqueline! Look forward to some pics of you toting that blaster it will no doubt be epic!
  24. Anytime. The one Kayelbe gave you is the same as the one I gave you it's just in the Pathfinder section of the forum so you can't see it yet. It's best to build to Lancer spec from the start so when you do decide to go Lancer most of the work is done. I focused on my hard armor and strapping and made sure my flight suit had the real suede. I have most of it completed but I'll have to upgrade my bund and pouches before I make a run at it. Good on you for going Lancer too!
  25. Hi Ben! The Lancer CRL is available to all members of the forum. You just won't be able to submit until you achieve basic approval. Here's the thread: http://forum.bikersc...howtopic=12081. I'm going for Lancer as well so I too need to upgrade my pouches so I'm right there with you! Are there any Lancers that can post a pic of their pouches for a reference?
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