Retrofire

I'm drafting one Jeremy using Word. Makes it easier to transfer over the the forum for discussion. I don't like writing long documents using the forum as the editor is too small. I'll have it done tomorrow evening and up for draft review. It's going to be basic to say the least but I figure we have to start somewhere.

No need for apologies Jake. It's an awesome thing to get suited up and take a look at your work! You're looking good and here are a few things I see. 1.) You're right on the vest sleeves they are a bit too long you want them just past the shoulder bells about 0.5" to 1" 2.) The bund is over the back armor so you need to tighten up that bund a bit more and make sure the armor lays over the bund but the elastic you mentioned might help that. Take a deep breath and PULL 3.) If you can bring the pouches up against the chest armor and over towards to center a bit but not over the 5-6 ribs of the front of your bund. The pouches should sit between the belt and chest armor. These look a little too big. 4.) The thigh boxes need to be leveled a bit so they are about equal front and back. Looks like the are sloping a bit towards the front. You've already addressed the TD and cleaned up the pouches and that's great. You have a great start and just need a little adjusting and tweaking to get the fitment right. Remember too that you'll have a flight suit under all of this which is going to bulk you out a bit so keep that in mind when you're measuring and fitting your armor. Makes a difference when you suit up with bund and vest. Keep it up and post more pictures!

Thanks to everyone getting these pics together!

Anything goes here...let's bring this to life!

Without further ado here's the draft CRL. Based of course on the standard TB CRL. I've moved the level 2 requirements to a TBD state since there are no references as of yet. I've added a few items that I've seen in the reference pictures but all of this is submitted for discussion. I'd like to keep what you all come up with here in this forum so I don't miss any updates. So jump in and let's bring this awesome new scout to life! Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss, or lightly weathered. Fan-made helmets are acceptable as long as they remain true to shape of original screen accurate helmet. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Balaclava/Neck Seal For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Flight Suit For 501st approval: See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described TBD. The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the trooper’s backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 50mm (2") black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss, or lightly weathered. Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or lightly weathered. Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or lightly weathered. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. [*]There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black, matt finish, heavy weight cotton fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves end just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Chest Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss. There is a recessed rectangular area present over the left breast that is painted TBD. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a TBD (TK Type Shoulder Bridge?). The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with white elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Back Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or weathered. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor. Top detail piece has a white painted circle and red line detail. The tank has a black horizontal stripe detail. There is a red circle and 45o triangle detail on the top left side. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Cummerbund For 501st approval: White Made from matt white, heavy weight cotton fabric. Closes in back with TBD hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Has a tapered cod section with an inverted curve sewn in. Made from the same material. [*]Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a TBD black elastic strap. [*]Front of cummerbund has TBD vertical stitch lines, centered between the two fabric pouches, producing TBD raised ribs of equal width. [*]Pouches are TBD. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or lightly weathered. The front and two "boxes" of the belt are made of plastic. The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist, is made from a textile material (webbing). Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes). Drop boxes are also made from plastic. Drop boxes are connected to the belt via white textile straps. [*]Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short grey corrugated hose. [*]The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. [*]The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. [*]On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Knee Armor For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or lightly weathered. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Boots For 501st approval: White or lightly weathered. The soles of the boot are tan. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. The boots are secured up the back using TBD white hook and loop fastener. The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Holster For 501st approval: Gloss white, semi-gloss or lightly weathered. Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with TBD. The blaster pistol fits into the holster. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): TBD

Please add all the reference photos to this thread. This will help organization and a cohesive package to submit to the LMO when the time comes.

Thanks webteam! Now we need a pic thread a discussion thread and a CRL draft thread.

Tbats a great idea Daniel! So gang y'all want to throw in on a CRL for this awesome Rebels Scout? I'll do the draft to kick it off and ask the webteam for a sandbox where we can build this.

WOOOOO! It's on now! The armourer I asked said that it was indeed too light and I had to disassemble and paint it to match my chest rectangle. I painted mine a light/medium grey. Before you paint give the tube a wash with hot water and soap and let it dry.

That should work. Give a schmear, clamp it good and tight, let it cure overnight, and your belt will hold good and tight. (hey that rhymes!) I"m a funny guy

I'd be all over doing a CRL for this!

That's frustrating. Maybe try photobucket? A lot of us use that free service for our pictures. Another idea would maybe drop a line to the webmasters (Griffin-X or Forest Ranger) and see if they could help you batter than I.

I did a two part method there. I added hook to the inside of the box and sewed loop to the end of the belt. I then cut an oversized washer out of ABS for the connection and finally set down a layer of E6000 under the belt at the rivet connection and clamped it until it cured. It may be a little overkill but I haven't had any problems yet.

Hi Jake. The thumbnails aren't coming out any larger than what you have posted so it's a little hard to tell. Can you post some larger pics?

All good points Tim and I should be clear that I don't have a dog in this hunt but it's hard not to empathize with ya'll in your frustration. Looking at the pictures of Mickey's lid it's a beautiful piece and based on the trouble they seem to be having with probably not something that will come around again so it's probably something worth waiting for.

There has been a bit of traffic on the 501st boards about the issues with RS. I'm not sure what the Det staff could do to get them to realize what they are doing to their business by not doing what they say. That's why I mentioned that maybe the only way to really get them to understand is by consumers refusing to do business with them. I've seen their work and it's beautiful to say the least but you just can't take a person's money and then treat them poorly and not communicate with them. We're all a little forgiving regarding setbacks but none of us would put up with this type of behavior from any other vendor why should we put up with it from them? It's a shame that RS has decided to take this course as it will only serve to have business directed away from them in the future. With an almost 10K strong legion that's a lot of business "slipping through their fingers". I think you're right though Tim. One thought might be to add them to the vendor problem listing as was done with CB and we tell potential recruits to avoid them. I'm not sure if that's warranted yet though.

I hear you brother but let me say that other than that little nit you are looking awesome! It's great to see you in armor. Just roll your bicepts and forearms over and overlap the forearm slightly over your gauntlet. You should clear easily.

I say a guesstimate would be around an inch or so but the extra length really comes down to fitting it on you. You want to give yourself enough slack to allow for adjusting the armor parts on your frame. I suggest wearing something that emulates your flight suit thickness when measuring for your strapping.

Welcome to the BS.N forest Bob!

You can use a heat gun to bring the edges together but I would wait until you have your elastic straps installed and see how much they pull the armor together before using a heat gun. After you do that and if you feel a heat gun is necessary I would make a few passes with the gun on low and squeeze them together gently until you get the width you need. Wear your flight suit or a suitable representation when you do this to have a gauge of how much you need to pull it in. Go slowly.

You're top notch Steve. It's awesome that you're making changes to these already fabulous lids!

I found the same issue and I did as Mickey suggests and added a return to my front and back chest armor. It especially helps with the area right under the arm.

That's looking awesome Craig! I used a magnetic attachment for my TD with the clips if that might be an idea for you. Here's the location if you are interested. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14946&st=80 Looking forward to seeing you in this rig with a "Pathfinder" tag under your name

Can you throw up a pic of the belt center and the new holes? That will help with getting an understanding of the situation.

I'm afraid not. That was an ultra-limited run and only a lucky few were able to score that beauty.