kayelbe

Thanks for the review! You know, that was the case. I took a full new set after noticing it when I went through the pics (while sweating in my Arizona garage!) In my excitement in posting my Lancer App, I must have mixed in shots from both "sessions". Wow, I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out! Now I can't UNSEE it. Hmmm. I know you said it's just nitpicking, but I went off the CRL, which states "- "Rank stripes" are optional but, if included, may only number from one (1) to six (6) stripes on the right side of the bullet tank." I went with "2" because this is my second costume to be 501st Approved, and like all the Orange Pauldron Sandies running around my Garrison, I didn't want to have all 6 rank stripes

That's what I used on mine.

You don't need split rivets for a Biker Scout. The helmet liner you can get out of one from Home Depot. Velcro and such you can get online or at a fabric store. Magnets aren't particularly useful on a Scout build. You would use them, for example, gluing coverstrips on TK armor. A cheap set of spring clamps from Harbor Freight will be all you need for assembly on a Scout. I used them to hold the greeblies in place while the glue dried, and also for holding the belt sections together (SC Kit). My helmet was pre-assembled (Altmann), so I don't have experience putting together a kit bucket.

You also shouldn't use the adhesive backed instead of the sew-in kind. The adhesive will foul up your sewing machine. On the subject of adhesive-backed velcro, get the Industrial Strength. It refers to the glue, not the hook 'n loop. The extra strength will help keep it stuck in place much better! I skimped on v.1 of my Sandtrooper, and my shins popped open halfway through my first troop.

I've ordered quite a bit of stuff from TB. That said, some of the stuff you could probably source elsewhere and save a few bucks. For my scout, I ordered his decal set (make sure you get the one appropriate for your build! I was accidentally sent a set for a Shadow Scout--but Mike is great and sent me the correct set right away). For elastics and glues, I went to JoAnn Fabrics, mostly. I don't think I used TB for much on my Scout. My Sandy on the other hand....

Not sure what you are asking. You seem to be aware of Makaze Squad, and your signature suggests you are active (at least as an observer) with Florida Garrison. All of your questions can be answered by visiting www.fl501st.com.

From an approved Lancer (Mr Poopie)'s thread:

You would spend way more money than for a set of RedKap coveralls, and you would have to take off all the extra pockets.

The updated material would still have to LOOK like the original ROTJ costume. I thought about something like that, but then I'd have to resize my soft parts.

Patient: Doc, it hurts when I move my arm like this... Doctor: Then don't do that! I never even considered that to be an issue. It only matters what it looks like with the front DOWN.

Well, other than an actual bucket, you could probably simulate one with a hardhat w/ a faceshield attachment and then ductape a thick cloth around the sides/back. I will be honest, the rest of the costume is much hotter than the helmet. I just wore one to the AZ Diamondbacks game (first in the Scout). No fans in my helmet and no fogging issues. The Scout helmet has a large opening around your chin/neck and has the ear vents. The suit/vest/cummerbund on the other hand....toasty!

Here we go: Helmet: Altmann with Trooperbay decals, DVH Snout, 3m Bolts Flight Suit: RedKap, DIY Mods Armor: SC Vest: DIY Cummerbund/Pouches/Cod: DIY Boots: DIY Blaster: DVH 6 View Shots: Helmet Closeups: FLIGHT SUIT DETAILS: Cummerbund/Pouches/Cod: VEST: ARMOR PIECES: THERMAL DETONATOR: BOOTS/HOLSTER: BLASTER:

So....padding glued to the plastic knees, not sewn inside (or I guess even outside) of the flight suit....?

To the plastic knees or to the flight suit? I don't think I can do it to the suit without ripping the seam open (again)...

I asked recently, and confirmed there's no definitive length on the vest. The typical length we see in the Legion are probably evolved to reduce the layering for trooping comfort. For my build, I initially attached the cod to the bund, but didn't like the way it laid. So, I made an extension flap from my short vest to connect the cod there. For the "thong", I added a parachute clip to the back of the vest at the bottom of the velcro and just clip it on. I much prefer the way it sits that way, and suspect it's not too far off from the way the original screen costumes were done.

Variety is the spice of life! Actually, I'm just afraid to mess it up with weathering.

This is sort of a Pre-Application thread. Having just finished and gotten my Scout approved, I'm of course very anxious to get Lancer Approval! So anxious, that I'm starting this thread with photos that are missing elements. I had not yet attached the holster and I had misplaced the parachute clips for the back belts. Pics of those are on my computer at home (I haven't uploaded them to Photobucket yet). I'm nervous about a few things, fit-wise, but would love to hear feedback. I might be right, or I might be wrong. Thanks for looking!

What "obvious adjustments"?

Thanks, Peter! First time out was a blast. Are you still going to move into DSG territory? When? Would love to troop with ya!

Thanks for the assist, Peter. I forgot there was one that was "members only". I apologize, Ben, and hope you find what you were looking for!

There are usually more than one set of standards for EVERY costume. For a Biker Scout, the CRL you linked to is referred to as "Level 1" or "Basic". Basic is the minimum to get the costume approved. As you point out, there isn't a "no visible stitching" requirement for Basic Approval. For Scouts, our Level 2 is also called "Lancer". As said, it's more strict. From the LANCER CRL: - Two pouches made to a suitable scale for your size that are made from a white heavy weight cloth ( off white if using off white drop box/ side armour straps), they should be touching chest armour and slightly overlapping belt. No external stitching around the flaps or velcro attachment should be seen. Bottom edge of the flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch.

Home Stretch! Did a dress rehearsal last night. All I have left is attaching the holster and remember where I put the clips for the back belts. Here's a couple of pics to prove I'm still working on my kit:

Yeah, that's the one! Thanks!

Okay, I found ones similar to what I was looking for, but I swear I saw a picture of them "open" and another with them "wrapped". They look like these:

I've been trying to find the thread that had the "all-in-one-wrap-around" shoulder t-strap. I need an alternative to Pandatrooper's method, because the bridge cover pieces keep popping off. I made them with what I think is plenty of overlap, but moving my arms flexes the shoulder to the point they back off either the front or back part. Thanks!