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Pandatrooper

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by Pandatrooper

  1. Pretty much all the rivets on a scout are basic pop rivets. You need the aluminum rivets (I used 1/8" diameter x 1/8" or 1/4" long on most of my build) and the pop rivet gun itself. Don't forget to get some 1/8" backing washers too. The rivets are mainly used for the ends of the belt, the back, the knees and the boot holster. The rivets on a TK are totally different. The ones on the side of the torso are split rivets which look similar to the ones you put through a stack of paper that you find at a stationery store.
  2. Moncal / MC is the smallest between KS (bigger) and SC (in the middle). Wait time was way too long for MC so I went with SC due to good turnaround and great service. I'm a smaller build too but I trimmed down the SC chest and back to fit. My build thread http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781
  3. tape the shoulders together and put the armor over your chest. stand in front of the mirror and compare yourself to the film photos to see if the armor is sitting too high or too low. tape the chest and back wider apart if you need it lower or tape it closer together if you need it higher. take some photos of the test fitting and post them here on the forum and get some feedback if you are not sure how it should fit
  4. The SC kit comes with a curved piece of plastic to mount inside the boot so it stays round. You could also cut the rim and bottom off an ice cream bucket, cut a slit verically in the back and mount that inside the boot too. I intend to do something like that.
  5. Here's how I did mine. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&st=20
  6. I have done that for TK parts and other costumes in the past. You might want try mix some salt in some boiling water and soak the pouches in them. I have used that trick before with fabric dyes, that will help "set" the dye. You might want to test on a scrap piece of fabric first.
  7. Small update, currently working on my suede parts and my boots. They are taking forever... pics coming soon.
  8. The clips in the film were likely a found part, but no one has found the exact one yet. I think the way I made mine is pretty close based on photos and screen captures.
  9. Ah cool, good stuff. Not sure if you already planned for it: You could print the decals on a laser or inkjet printer on custom waterslide decal transfer (same process used for model airplanes etc.) You can also paint on that printable waterslide decal paper, and seal it - then cut it out and apply it. I've done the same process for models and prototypes for industrial design. Just thought I'd mention it if you weren't sure how to approach it.
  10. I noticed the pattern on the webbing too, similar to nylon webbing but its hard to say? I can imagine some materials from the 70's and 80's might be hard to find nowadays.
  11. Rooooowwwrrr.... very nice build Keith! How are you going to do the traps and stripes, etc. Decals? Paint?
  12. Studiocreations offers some parts, just google them.
  13. According to the Lancer guidelines, the 2" belt can be canvas or nylon webbing. The hip box straps should be cotton.
  14. Lancer specs are here http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=1364
  15. Yup, Stormtroopers have been using it for a few years to polish white armor as well. I have several grades of it, so that I can start with the rougher stuff first. I usually wet sand, then the heavy grade, then the fine grade. Works great!
  16. You could un pick the butt flap, not sure if you'll like the finished product? Suggestion might be to unpick (seam rip) the sides and bottom as you suggested, and instead of leaving flap as one layer, sew a backing on it to make it a little thicker? The thigh patches look like they could work, but they are a bit small compared to the screen scouts.
  17. Nice work! Will the expansion foam be solid enough and widthstand the pressure of the vaccuum?
  18. Ah, I guess I need to flip mine. I based mine off the Blue Ray special features archive images, but rotated the TD around to match the screen. I'll change it per the lancer spec diagram.
  19. Suede finally arrived , after it was lost in the mail! I can finish the riding patch and butt flap now.
  20. Agreed, the vest and suit are separate.
  21. Looking good! My only suggestions would be to stuff some foam in the pouches, round the corners on the shoulder bells and if possible, make the cod wider.
  22. No offense taken, we all have different ways of doing things. Pick what tips work for you and use them or change them. That's the beauty of our hobby! Agreed, the strap ends at the crotch and not underneath. On this mannequin, everything is "skin tight". On top of the undersuit, everything fits me just fine. Will post pics when completed.
  23. Good idea. I think anything that is not too thick and will hold it's shape will work just fine. I guess I am used to my TK and TD cod all these years, that any kind of shaped cod doesn't bother me. Shdwtrpr13, I will post some action shots when everything is completed. Soon! Just waiting on suede, was shipped to me today. Also need to finish my holster modification.
  24. Question 1: what size drill bit is recommended for the zip tie that attatch's the pipe to the mold? I used a 3/8" drill bit with a standard size zip tie. Question 2: Whats the best method of attatching the Elastic to the arm piece's? (I have the velcro from the SC kit but I'm just concerned that it may come loose during wear. I didn't use their velcro. I used "Heavy Duty" velcro (the hook side is much stronger) on the inside of the armor, and sewed fuzzy side to the elastic strapping. Question 3: if the forarm armor pieces are too wide for my forarms should I use a heat gun and bend them into propper shape? (Noob question I know but at least its valid in my mind I left mine the size they are even though I am a slim build. Try it on with your undersuit before you heat anything and bend it.
  25. I can walk fine, doesn't dig in at all. The key is to not have the cod extend way down to your butt - if you know what I mean. It probably looks a little weird on the mannequin since the legs on my duct tape model are spread apart in a more stable pose, rather than legs together. But I've worn it just fine, and I can sit on my scooter just fine (yes, I tested the riding position!)
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