Pandatrooper

Glad you like the build. The clips are not required for 501st acceptance or Lancer (currently). So it's a detail you could add later.

No problem. Draw some pencil lines where you want the slots to be. I used a 3/16" drill bit for the ends of the slot. Then drilled a series of holes along the slot as well. I then use a Dremel with this bit to route out the rest of the slot. Then sand the slots smooth with 400 grit sandpaper. Only takes a couple minutes to do a slot. Hope that helps! http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=9903

Thanks John, no worries. Great feedback all around. I wasn't sure about the SW Chronicles pic as the straps look safety pinned in place. Not sure if thats how they were really fastened or if it was just for the book so I used that bunker shot instead. I can always change it later.

Heat up the decal area with a hair dryer. This will warm up and soften the adhesive. With clean hands, slip some decal backing paper under a corner of a decal and peel it off. Then flip it over and apply some spray adhesive like 3M super 77 spray. Let it tack for a couple seconds then apply the decal and press it down.

I think I was using this as a guide for the rear strap spacing, I forgot to post this as a reference picture. The straps seem further apart here? This is the current spacing on my belt I'm tempted to leave it for now, as I would essentially need to redo the back of the belt to get things spaced more tightly together. Might want to re-assess when I'm actually dressed and wearing everything? Thoughts?

Thanks. Glad its helpful. There is a step by step on the magnet mod in my build thread.

Found this on Ebay. Canvas and the side edging and toe are similar to the original Sierra's, but the sole is stilla bit off. Solid colored sole though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Palladium-Mens-Pampa-Hi-Stonewashed-Dark-Khaki-Ankle-Boot-02352-/190685372271?pt=US_Men_s_Shoes&var=&hash=item2c65bbdf6f#ht_1490wt_1021 I've already started with my "Rugged Outback" cheap base boots, so will probably pass on the ebay ones above. But another potential boot option?

Hi staff, I copied this from my SC build thread. I figured it might make a good "how-to" but if it was buried in a thread, people might not find it. Feel free to delete or move the thread if you don't think this is the right way to do this. Hope this is helpful! -------------- So I wanted to make accurate looking TD clips. I have seen different solutions so far, and scoured stores. But I figured these would be easy enough to make, just takes some dedicated time. I have built plenty of screen accurate TK style thermal detonators, and I figured this would be similar. I started with a 1" wide 1/16" thick aluminum strip. Same as I used for my TK detonators. I plotted out some measurements for the slots. You could use the same measurements based on the ruler in the next few pics. I drilled some small holes on the end for mounting the clips to the hose, and to assist in the bends later on. I realized after the fact that one of the small holes was drilled in the wrong spot, but it's hidden under the belt. The larger holes are the ends for the large slots. I made the small pilot holes bigger with a Unibit. I cut the large slots out with my trusty Dremel and a fiber reinforced cut off wheel (wear safety glasses kids). Used a file and some sandpaper to clean things up and straighten the slots. I bent the longer ends into a curve, so that they can be screwed tightly into the hose (and through the ABS pipe that was glued into the hose caps - remember?). The bigger bend was made by using the small hole in the other end, and folding the clip over a piece of 1/4" plywood. Make sure you make the bend at the top of where your belt sits (position may vary depending on how curvy you bent the hose end). Test fit, looks good. You can see how the clip will hang onto the belt on the back side. I think I made the bend even a bit tighter after this pic was taken. I also bent the tips that go behind the belt inwards slightly, to prevent the clips from sliding easily. Same trick as seen on TK TD's. I did a final sanding, washed the clips and cleaned them, then primered them and painted them satin black. Clips screwed into the bottom of the hose. Job done! Back of the belt on my duct tape mannequin. *Note: things might look a little big as I have a 30 waist. The mannequin's stuffing is a bit packed out, so the belt is "oversized" on the mannequin. The TD hose is also a hair shorter than I would have liked, but it will do. TD installed via magnets and clipped in. I stuck a piece of paper under the belt so that the belt clips would be visible. Close up view, similar to the clips seen on the SC site.

Thanks for the feedback, John. How much further "inwards" should they be? 1" deeper on each side?

So I wanted to make accurate looking TD clips. I have seen different solutions so far, and scoured stores. But I figured these would be easy enough to make, just takes some dedicated time. I have built plenty of screen accurate TK style thermal detonators, and I figured this would be similar. I started with a 1" wide 1/16" thick aluminum strip. Same as I used for my TK detonators. I plotted out some measurements for the slots. You could use the same measurements based on the ruler in the next few pics. I drilled some small holes on the end for mounting the clips to the hose, and to assist in the bends later on. I realized after the fact that one of the small holes was drilled in the wrong spot, but it's hidden under the belt. The larger holes are the ends for the large slots. I made the small pilot holes bigger with a Unibit. I cut the large slots out with my trusty Dremel and a fiber reinforced cut off wheel (wear safety glasses kids). Used a file and some sandpaper to clean things up and straighten the slots. I bent the longer ends into a curve, so that they can be screwed tightly into the hose (and through the ABS pipe that was glued into the hose caps - remember?). The bigger bend was made by using the small hole in the other end, and folding the clip over a piece of 1/4" plywood. Make sure you make the bend at the top of where your belt sits (position may vary depending on how curvy you bent the hose end). Test fit, looks good. You can see how the clip will hang onto the belt on the back side. I think I made the bend even a bit tighter after this pic was taken. I also bent the tips that go behind the belt inwards slightly, to prevent the clips from sliding easily. Same trick as seen on TK TD's. I did a final sanding, washed the clips and cleaned them, then primered them and painted them satin black. Clips screwed into the bottom of the hose. Job done! Back of the belt on my duct tape mannequin. *Note: things might look a little big as I have a 30 waist. The mannequin's stuffing is a bit packed out, so the belt is "oversized" on the mannequin. The TD hose is also a hair shorter than I would have liked, but it will do. TD installed via magnets and clipped in. I stuck a piece of paper under the belt so that the belt clips would be visible. Close up view, similar to the clips seen on the SC site.

For the thermal detonator, I wanted to do something a little different. Still screen accurate of course. First up, I prepped the end caps for the TD by gluing in some ABS pipe so that the rear caps are centered, and firmly held in place. I glued a flat circular disc of ABS into the bottom of the pipe before gluing the pipe to the end cap. The new SC thermal detonator (TD) is awesome. Great new shape, the back side is already curved to conform to the belt / screen accurate, I just sanded the corners and edges and drilled the holes for the zip tie that will hold the hose in place. To hold the TD in place, I will use a combination of screen accurate clips and a rare earth magnet setup. The clips keep the TD upright and close, the rare earth magnets prevent the TD from shifting but still allow you to adjust or remove it easily when required. You can get these magnets from hardware and furniture places, they are commonly used for cabinets. I took a short section of 1/8" thick aluminum 1/2" wide, and drilled some holes at the ends 2 1/2" apart. The holes in the middle keep the bar centered and tight INSIDE the hose. The magnets will protrude from the hose and attach to metal studs attached the back of the belt. The magnet cups were riveted to the aluminium bar, and the magnets glued into the cups. The steel cups will amplify the strength or pull of the magnets, more than the magnets alone. Clearance holes are Dremelled into the hose. The bar with magnets is placed into the hose, and riveted in place with 1/8" rivets about 1/4" long. The hose assembly is zip tied into place. Make sure it's aligned with the back of the belt. I marked the corresponding locations on the belt and punched holes and riveted the matching steel washers (they are always paired with the steel cups) in place. Make sure that the magnets sit absolutely flush with the matching steel washers as they won't be as strong if they aren't in direct contact. The TD is now attached to the belt, just line it up and it clicks into place! Seriously, if Batman was building a TD - this is how he would do it. There's something incredibly cool about how it snaps into position. Forgot to mention, I glued the TD greeblies in place with E6000. These are the Don Jarr greeblies and the position of them is based on the blue ray details. You can actually lift the full assembled belt by the TD and shake it, and it won't come apart unless you specifically pry them apart. I forgot to take a pic, but I hot glued the inside ends of the hose and glued the end caps on.

Sorry, was away so haven't had a chance to update. Glued the belt together with E6000 and clamped it overnight. Its rock solid. For the front straps, I found some great off white canvas straps at a vintage store. Bought the last 2 yards! I cut some 12" long sections and installed female snaps on the ends, along with making some snap plates. These are glued inside the front of the belt, but will allow the straps to swivel and move with my body. Snap plates glued in with Plastic weld. Straps snapped in and attached to the side boxed with velcro sewn into the strap. Fastex buckle is installed by weaving the strap through the back (screen accurate I believe). As far as I know, the buckles are installed facing a certain direction, I based on the position on screen grabs from ROTJ. I chose to go with a 4" wide velcro closure, left over right as it's the screen accurate fastening based on photos. I have sewn the velcro on but I haven't riveted the belt yet. I want to get the waist size perfect before riveting the belt so I velcroed it to test fit the perfect size for now. For the rear straps, I wanted to try something similar to the front. I made a snap plate, and sewed it on the inside of the belt by covering it with a square if fuzzy velcro (fuzzy side against the undersuit) by sewing around the snap plate. I assembled the plate with a rivet and washer, same way I make all my male snaps (I have built 7 different TK's and TD's all using this method, never had a failure). Here, the snaps are sewn onto the underside of the belt, and the corresponding back straps have female snaps pressed in. Close up view When the back of the belt is closed, you can see how cleanly the back straps hang and they can still pivot if need be. Finished rear strap connected to hip box with the Fastex buckle woven in (again, I checked the orientation with screen pics. It's the opposite of the front strap if you want to get picky) Finished back view Finished front view (still need to rivet the belt armor to the belt strapping but I will leave it to later for sizing purposes).

There is no gap really, just overlap. Hardly noticable

Looks great, nice work!

Wow, that looks so awesome...

Very nice build there John! Love the paint work, top job! Also wanted to chime in, I bought Smitty's stuff before and its top notch. Great service too. The scope detail is amazingly sharp! Awesome blaster!!

Some updates. Started on the belt armor. Here, I have trimmed the extra rough trim plastic on the top and bottom. The screen scouts had very little plastic "overhang" top and bottom on the belts armor (look at some reference pics). I will sand the top and down bottom later when the belt is fully glued together. Builders have used rivets to join the belt parts, but Lancer spec calls for a single belt so you need to glue the side boxes on. Here, you can see the angle if I wanted to glue the side box. One thing I noticed on the screen scouts is that there is very little gap between the side box and the main belt. There's only about 1/2" gap. I'm a slim guy, so if I glued the box on as it was formed, the belt would be a really big circumference. I used a trick I established on building TK armor. The belts are often formed flat, so I simply taped 2 paint stir sticks together to form a simple clamp to hold the plastic, heat the edge with a heat gun then make a defined bend. This prevents the plastic from warping out of shape and gives you control to get the bend angle you want. You can see here I have bent the end part of the main belt and the side box, specifically the "longer" side. I have a trick here I will do to make the gluing of the 2 parts secure. The end of the side box only has about 1" sticking out (where the rivet goes) based on screen scout pics. Again, I can do this because I'm slim but if you're bigger you might need a bigger gap between the armor pieces. I have trimmed notches into the long tab portion of the side box, the other end is trimmed with a 1" tab to accommodate the single belt rivet Using the same paint stick clamp bending trick, I bent the long tab into this weird shape. This allows me to glue the surface of the belt armor together. The extra notched portion will be glued INSIDE the connecting belt box. You can see how they join and will be glued here. This will make the junction much stronger. I've done this with both side boxes You can see the angle here You can see the angle of the end boxes and how they join up here. They are held with clamps but will be glued with ABS cement or E6000 I've also cut the slots in the front for the canvas belt straps. I found some off white canvas straps at a vintage fabric supply shop. More to come!

Thanks all, glad you like the elastic shoulder bridge. I think it's a good size if your chest is somewhat screen sized and don't need longer straps to cover the armor gap. Shdwtrpr13, you can't really do a proper effective return edge without a heat sealing iron. You can buy them at most hobby shops, they are used when people build remote controlled airplanes, and they stretch this flexible wing material over their wing frames. The iron shrinks and seals the edge of the material on the wings, but of course it can be used for other "crafts". Keep in mind that you don't need to do a return edge at all for 501st clearance or even Lancer for your costume. Some armor types come with a return, others don't. So it's not a requirement. I just did it to give the torso a more finished / polished look. If you're going to try it, do it on scrap plastic first to practice. Watch those videos carefully, and most importantly - be patient!

I just noticed this photo on the SC site. It shows a scout with no thermal detonator on his back. Granted this is not a complete nor necessarily screen used image (looks like the side straps are safety pinned to the belt!) but you can see that the back of the belt is overlapped and probably velcroed. http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/scout-back-leftside-chronicles.jpg This image here clearly shows it's velcroed. http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/washko_057_mvc-335f.jpg

Thanks all, glad you like the shoulder bridge solution. I already made one for the other shoulder. Seriously tempted to buy the rest of the elastic they have at the store as it's old stock.

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I went to a local fabric store yesterday and went into their "vintage" section, and found some really cool elastic. It's 1" wide and it's thicker than common white fabric elastic and has a fabric woven into it. It's off white and stretchy, very similar to what I think the originals were. With the size and scale of the screen used shoulder bridge straps, I think they may have "looked" like canvas, but may have been this type of elastic instead? I know the current Lancer standard is canvas, but maybe it could have been this type of elastic? Here's what it looks like. Close comparison with my previous 1 5/8" sewn canvas straps Left and right right compare Full view What do you think?

Congrats!

Thanks for the feedback John. Yeah, I am a fussy guy. I'll cut the front decal smaller. Re: the bridge straps, I'll try to make another set. Half the width would make them 3/4" wide, which is rather small - no? Maybe 1" is better? At that size, I am doubting that the originals were canvas straps at all. More likely old school 70's elastic (the old thicker ones with more rubber content were more yellow, with fabric woven in).

Some updates. Return edge on the left side of the chest and back completed. Now the front and back on both sides have returns and the slots for the lower chest straps have been cut. Really happy with how it looks. It makes the chest armor look "thicker" and tougher looking than before. For joining the front and back at the shoulder bridge, I made some "T" straps. I first used some 1.5" elastic for the shoulder bell extension, and some loop velcro for the under bridge, just sewed the two together at the junction point. The shoulder bell extension has a square of loop sewn to it to attach to the shoulder bell armor. For the canvas shoulder bridge loops, I sewed some 1 5/8" canvas straps. I doubled the width, folder it over so that there was a "good side out". Then I sewed some 1.5" elastic to the ends. Kind of tough to wrap your head around, but the image on the right (inside out) is how the strap is sewn, the image on the left is flipped (right side out) so that the canvas will be seen on the outside of the armor, but the underside is elastic and stretchy so it fits snuggly over the shoulder bridge armor. It took a couple of adjustments but when installed, they will fit TIGHT over the shoulder bridge area. Here, I've already fixed some industrial hook side velcro to the underside of the shoulder bridges (chest and back). Then I slide the canvas shoulder bridge loops down onto the back armor... Here I have attached some loop velcro to the underside of the bridge armor. Now attach the velcro to the chest armor, joining the 2 parts Now slide the canvas bridge loops over the velcro. The tension of the canvas bridge loops holds the velcro tight, it's not coming apart. You can also see I sewed some elastic straps for the sides of the chest and back. Decided to go with elastic for now for ease of use, but I have an upgrade planned for later. With the T straps installed (velcroed from underneath), I can now install the shoulder bells. Before the torso is done, I wanted to add a small detail. Many of the screen scouts had a V shaped notch cut into the bottom of the chest armor, so that they would flex when in the riding position on speeder bikes and for comfort / stunts (I assume). I pencilled in the V notch (actually cut it bigger than this). Then I cut the notch out. I actually found that for whatever reason, the chest was slightly wider than the back armor. Because I am a slim build, I wanted to reshape the chest slightly. After cutting the notch, I heated the chest armor along the center seam and bent it inwards to reduce the outer width. Unlike the screen scouts, I wanted to prevent the armor from cracking, so I cut a piece of scrap black ABS plastic, heated it and curved it to the contour of the inside of the chest armor. I also cut the notch in it, so that when it's glued in place, it will prevent the V shaped notch from splitting the armor further. Just glued and clamped it in place with Plastic weld.

Maybe Starwarshelmets pics and video? http://www.starwarshelmets.com/star_wars_helmets_review_original_jedi_biker_scout_trooper_helmet.htm