Pandatrooper

Trying to help a friend replace their smashed helmet. Is there a vetted seller of a decent accuracy helmet? A bunch that I see look too much like Don Post helmets, visors are wrong, or the snout to short etc. Any feedback would be great. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing the tips from my channel @BikerScout007 I hope it helps!

If you used proper artist acrylic like Liquitex you should be fine. You can iron it to set it on soft parts. Example people airbrush t shirts w Liquitex and sell them. They just iron them afterwards. on the armor it’s fine too. I did mine years ago and it’s fine. You do not need to seal it. Let it weather naturally

You will always have more control with an airbrush and watered down acrylics. You can see low pressure splatter and gradations on the original costumes. i find that when people use spray cans it always looks like spray cans because they spray too much volume when applied too close to your costume part. You can only control distance so an airbrush is a better option.

Thet are just 1/8" diameter pop rivets 1/4" long. Get the backing washers for this as well. Any pop rivet gun that have a 1/8" adapter at the end will work

Hi all, I helped an applicant shoot some photos on a podcast that I co-host. I thought it would be helpful to share some tips in terms of what to use for camera positions, lighting, poses etc. I think this would be helpful for applicants to see. As a GML for a few years I have seen lots of submissions get roadblocked by bad photos. Feel free to share with your applicants and detachments. Enjoy! *actual photos shown starting at the 4:35 mark

Great info and article here on the original Biker Scout hold out blaster. Good photos too! Read the article and scroll down as this is mainly about Han Solos blaster but there is excellent info and reference for the holdout blaster. http://www.originalprop.com/blog/2018/04/26/exclusive-details-photos-original-han-solo-blaster-movie-prop-from-return-of-the-jedi-to-be-sold-by-juliens-auctions-in-june/ “One of the most interesting stories that James told me was with regards to the Scout Trooper / Biker Scout hold out blaster. One of these props is included in the auction, and in going through the paperwork and meeting notes, it sounded as though the original idea was to modify an existing “real world†pistol as had been done with most of the blasters in the prior films. Instead what was used was quite different. James said that the UK prop department had run out of time, so several of the local crew in the U.S. made wood mock ups of different designs for the Biker Scout blaster, and painted them black. George Lucas looked at them and choose the one that James had made, and it was sent to the creature shop where they made a mold and cast them.â€

Thanks all. I’ve sold it to a local trooper for a great price, keep it in the family. thanks for the feedback

Gotcha, thanks for the feedback! I’ll have to dig up what I paid for it.

Just curious what the value of an unassembled Lone Wolf helmet kit is worth? I'm thinking about selling mine. It's been in a box for about 4 years. Thanks!

You're welcome

The photos are slightly dated and there's more accurate ones, but the SC method is a valid way to start. http://www.studiocreations.com/HOWTO/bikerscout/thekneepadsboots.html

Well, it only took five years but I'm finally approved. TB-2886

I'm happy to share it out, but I'll update it with some changes as I feel even the one I sewed is slightly off. I'll post it when it's done.

Some preview pics from a recent photo shoot. Final application photos to come!

Hi Kevin, yes. 1. seam rip the outside vertical seam of the pant 2. sew the thigh patches on 3. flip the pants inside out 4. sew the outside vertical seam of the pant to make it a "tube you can stick your leg in" again 5. size up the 2" thigh elastics and pin them to the outside seam 6. cut a 2" slot / seam rip the thigh patch where the elastic goes under the thigh patch at the front and rear 7. sew the thigh patches back up along the 2" slot to secure the elastic 8. add a 1-2" seam at the outside of the pant leg where the elastic is, to prevent it from flopping around You can sew the elastic by hand or machine, whatever is easier. I was able to sew it on my machine by scrunching up the butt area, then sewing the 2" slot for the front of the thigh, and vice versa for the back of the thigh.

The face mask portion is attached to the flip up visor. It's usually glued at the sides. The 3m bolts have square bevels at the base, which helps to leverage both pieces together. See original pics http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&album=145 The helmet sides originally had bumps on the inside that snapped against protrusions on the inside of the visor. This would help hold it up or down. Tension tightening the nuts on the visor bolts helps too.

No worries Korry. Weathering the boots is included in the upcoming armour weathering video.

Thanks Korry, glad you like the build and hope it's helpful. Here's a link to where the boot tutorial starts: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=92449

I've done a variety of helmet showcases (please check my youtube channel). This week, I finished weathering my SC Biker Scout helmet and shot a video of it. Hope this is helpful!

Here's a preview for an armor weathering tutorial I am working on. Full video coming soon!

It's been a while since I've updated this build thread with new content. And I started it four years ago! That's what happens when Darth Real Life takes over. But rest assured, some new stuff is coming. Update: I finally finished my jumpsuit and added the suede inner thigh patches and thigh elastics. I know there are a variety of patterns out there for the suede patches but I decided to make my own. I took a pair of old jeans that were worn out and had holes in them. I used a sharpie pen and drew the shape of the thigh patch on the inner thigh, then cut out the shape to use as a template. *Sorry, no picture for that as I forgot to take it. I then transferred the jean cutout onto a piece of cardboard (used a file folder) and created a template for the inner thigh patch. Trace the pattern out onto the suede and cut around it, leaving about 3/4" excess. Cut out two of these. One will be sewn to the inner left leg and the other goes on the inner right leg. Now you can sew the patches on right away if you wanted to. I wanted to make it look more finished, so I cut some darts out (wedge shaped cuts) along the outside edge of the patches and folded them along the outline. Then sewed these down and trimmed off the excess for a cleaner look. This is the backside so you won't see all these cuts. Nice and clean, ready to be sewn to the inner thigh of the pants. You can see that the inner patch perfectly conforms to the other leg of the jeans that I didn't cut up. I pinned the inner thigh patches into place, using 6-7 pins around the edges and sewed around the perimeter. This is easier if you rip the seam (take apart the stitches) on outside of the pant legs first. This is the outer vertical vertical seam of the pant legs. After you are done all your sewing, you flip the pants inside out and sew up the outside seam to finish the pant portion of the jumpsuit. In hindsight, I should have made the butt portion of the suede patch rounder and higher at the top. But I don't think this is a deal breaker as most of this is covered by the butt flap. For the thigh elastics, I used 2" black fabric elastic. I pinned it in place where it sits, kind of mid thigh and about 1 1/4" below the belt boxes. I measured where the elastic sat on one leg, and copied the measurements to the other leg. I used an X-acto blade to carefully cut the stitches on suede patch where the elastic would go underneath the patch. I tucked the elastic under the patch, marked the seam and then cut the elastic about 1/2" longer than that mark. Then I sewed over the suede patch seam thereby sewing the elastic in place. To prevent the elastic from flopping around, I ran a very short stitch along the outer seam of the pant over the thigh elastic, just to hold it in place. Jumpsuit suede patches are now done!

Most people tend to hold their gear gun too close and have it on too high of a heat. As more about general or convection heating rather than one spot. The plastic outside your heated area even an inch away is still "cold". You want to warm and area at least 50% bigger than the area you want to reshape. Bend it past the curve, more than what you want and then heat the plastic holding the gun tip 6" away and moving it in a consistent pattern. The plastic will start to feel soft and you will feel it bend. Only use the heat when you have reached the desired shape then cool the plastic under cold water or use compressed air. If you've rippled the plastic it will not be salvageable. You have to buy a new piece. Its better to reshape it a few times to get it where you want rather than try to do it in one shot. Good luck!

Go for ABS all the way if possible. I can understand why some makers will use HIPS, it costs less and is more stretchy and forgiving. But it's not nearly as durable as ABS. Your shower stall in the bathroom? ABS. Your landline phone? ABS. Most electronics like computer monitor casings, etc.? ABS.

Glad this is still helpful!