Pandatrooper

Glad the glove mod is helpful. Btw: this thread isn't dead, my newborn daughter takes up most of my time right now. The only major thing I have to do is sew the riding patch on and the whole costume is 501st approvable. Needs boot and helmet mods for Lancer.

Try searching for Palladium canvas ankle boots. They are very similar to the original canvas boots and have a single color sole. If I was making mine again this is what I would use.

Always best to go lighter and have to dye twice, rather than too dark!

Agreed. Replace the webbing and do it right. The rear webbing with all those rivets is a mess!

How to make your own screen accurate thermal detonator clips. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9889&view=findpost&p=82711

I've been able to find 1.25" fairly easily as an option.

Awesome photo!! Thanks for sharing! Nilo Rodis is a colleague and friend of mine. He designed the scout helmet and armor as well as Slave Leia and many other characters, vehicles and sets on the iriginal trilogy films. I've been planning on doing a video with him in the near future.

I would highly recommend buying the correct width elastics from the start for Lancer sppec. It will save a lot of headaches in the long run! Heres a guide that might be helpful. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10430

I like option #1. Actually, my webbing passes under the buckle as one piece which is screen accurate. Inside the hip box, mine attach with each end velcroing to the inside of the box sides. It doesnt pass through as one piece. This makes alignment and adjustments much easier.

Personally, I would only trim that visor a little less than the pencil line. The gap will be too big if you trim to the line. Check out this photo from a screen used helmet as a guide. http://www.bikerscout.net/forum/uploads/1155956514/med_gallery_1_13_445302.jpg In regards to the boots, for me they were fairly labor intensive but not that hard to do especially if you can sew the velcro on yourself. Just follow the tutorial and take your time.

Glad you find it helpful.

Looking sharp Lucas! Here's my diagram of what I think could be moved around. The top image has the suggestions and the bottom image is the current view. I think you could move the body up and level it out of course. The bottom edge of the body should be level with the ground. I would raise it up 6" or so. I would also suggest moving the body forward slightly, so that a little more of the scooter is under the butt of the rider. Right now it almost looks tipsy, it "could" fall on it's rear end of the rider leaned far enough. I would cover the sides of the scooter (blue area) with sintra or ABS in black, to hide the visibility of the scooter. I'd also make the undercowl (red area), this will hide more of the scooter as well. Looking forward to more progress!

If you want to you can also roll / fold the bottom 1.5" or so under the sleeves, just tuck them in.

Nice work! You may have tied me for "most clamps used" award.

Check my build thread in the armor section. I took photos just like you described.

Looking sharp, trooper!

Don't bother with the heat gun until you test fit for size.

Voice amps http://www.voicebooster.com/products/costume-products/aker-mr1506-10watt-voice-amplifier-black.html

The SC kit has a bit of a wide chest. You're a slim build like me so keep that in mind. I had to heat and bend the chest and back to suit my chest size a bit better. Other than that, awesome kit. You can see my build thread here, lots of things I learned along the way. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781 My scout will only be slightly weathered, but you can use tips from my TD weathering vids. I use Liquitex acrylics. Best amps by far are the Aker amps. The 1506 is small and fits nicely in a pouch. You can use the icomm for static burst. There's no need to modulate your voice imo. http://www.voicebooster.com/products/costume-products.html Good luck with your build!

Just sew the corresponding velcro to the outside top of the bund, about 1 rib width away from the end of the ribs on the bund, then attach the the pouches.

This is how I did mine. T strap elastic underneath, mounted with velcro, then an elastic loop to cover the gap just like the screen used armor. http://forum.bikersc...indpost&p=82020

Go to a hobby shop and buy some flat sheets of styrene or ABS plastic. Plastruct and Evergreen are 2 brands to look for. Most people use those companies for scratch building miniature railroad buildings and stuff like that.

I finished my gloves. I still think the SA gloves are way too wide / big and thick. They feel like oven mitts! So I modified them. First, I flipped them inside out. I drew a line where I wanted to "take in" the sides. I actually took it in slightly more than this on the bottom of the glove, and made the opening slightly smaller by taking in the top as well. I tried to sew them initially with the liner still around the gauntlets, but it was too thick to sew so I cut them out and took them to a tailor friend who could sew leather. They took in the top and bottom edges and the shortened the cuff by 3/4". Since I cut out the thick foamy liner, I am using some jogging glove liners instead. Less hot and more dexterity. Here's a good comparison. The original unmodified SA glove is at the top (I have 2 pairs, so one set is not fully modded). The middle pair are my modified SA gloves with the foam liners removed, top and bottoms taken in and the cuff sewn 3/4" shorter. The bottom image is a photo of the real original Esprit gloves. You can see the details on the modified SA gloves are much closer than the stock ones. *Note, I cut out the stock SA glove pic to make them all line up at the tips of the fingers for better comparison.

Small update and test. Finished the bund velcro for the pouches, and I added some shoulder straps / suspenders. I also added some elastic straps with a snap / snap plate to the front chest armor. This keeps the armor from riding up over the bund, and it centers it perfectly over the bund. Here, you can see the chest straps and the shoulder straps / suspenders Good photo of the internal harness system. You can see the T straps for the shoulders, the shoulder strap / suspenders, and the straps for the shoulder armor (wrapping around the bicep) First proper test fit on my duct tape mannequin which I made to my size, great for test fitting costumes.

Glad you like it. Don't be intimidated - Just start slow and simple, start with something like the biceps or the forearms and work your way up to more complex pieces. The biggest mistake I see beginners make is rushing into some part of the build without researching, and making a bold cut / trim when they're not sure they need to cut at all, and the cut is permanent or can't be repaired. Just take your time, don't rush it.