Pandatrooper

Are you trying to salvage the current boot or start new? If everything is falling apart I would just suggest making new boots.

Might need to be pulled up a bit, looks a little low. Personally, I would glue or sew in some craft foam behind the cod to avoid the bunched up look in the crotch area.

It would be way easier for a wardrobe person to buy a giant roll of elastic, than to source suspenders and trim them. I think the costumes were made in the USA, in California if I'm not mistaken. According to costume designer Aggie Guerard Rodgers, she has worked in California for her whole career. I recall photos from the FL archives with them testing the scout costumes. What i am getting at is that if the costumes were made in the USA, shouldn't the common measurements be standard / imperial versus metric measurements? Cuz you're right, it's often tough to find odd sizes.

My current helmet is an SC prototype. I will be building my Lone Wolf helmet when I go Lancer.

Just make an inner shell out of craft foam and hot glue, put them inside the pouches. Done!

I don't think anyone makes them but inner boxes would be easy to make. I would be concerned with stuff inside the boxes affecting how they hang and noise. I just put my keys, phone and wallet in one of the canvas pouches.

In my opinion, go velcro.

Yes that would work fine as long as the fabric elastic covered the seam of the shim as much as possible.

Agreed, go Lancer spec from the get go. It will save you headaches later on.

No, but a rough one would be: - curved lexan RC car scissors - drill / drill bits - hobby knife - push pins - various sizes of spring clamps - Tandy line 24 snaps - styrene sheet - sign vinyl - adhesive heavy duty velcro - pencil / ruler - E6000 glue - Plastic Weld cement - Popsicle sticks - masking tape - sand paper - pop rivet gun with 1/8" rivets - Dremel with various bits - heat sealing iron - various widths of elastic - sewing velcro - webbing in various sizes - canvas twill fabric - cotton duck fabric - double sided interface - white vinyl - seam ripper - Krylon primer and black spray paint - sewing machine

No problem. Which logo are you referring to, do you mean the new banner on the forum? Also, it seems like there's still discussion on the shoulder bridge width, so I'll wait til that's solidified, then I can update the diagram. Cool?

In my build thread, we had a discussion that it might have been 1" wide woven elastic sewn in a loop. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&st=20&p=82090entry82090 Could we come to a consensus and maybe I could add this to the strapping diagram? Perhaps we can propose to update the Lancer guidelines too? Could be something flexible like "The shoulder bridge cover should ideally be 1" wide woven elastic sewn in a loop to cover the chest and back armor gap. If the trooper is bigger in build then the gap should be shimmed and a 1" woven elastic used to cover the gap. If a seam is visible due to a larger shim being used, a larger elastic loop or fabric loop can be used, as long as it is not overly large". The above is just a suggestion. Would need buy in from everyone and staff of course.

Hi all, could we sticky this image on the forum somewhere? People always ask me strapping questions and it would be easier if this visual info wasn't tucked away. I can always update the specs if need be. Thanks, Terry

So Chef, what steps should we take if we want to make suggestions to update the Lancer requirements? I think there's enough "evidence" in this thread re: the elastic widths. The rear buckle closure is not in any pics I know of, and the only pics we see so far is the velcro closure. Thoughts?

I guess we didn't come to a consensus and make the change to Lancer spec. We could still discuss it and present the change to staff, no?

Not so much distorts, the amplification sounds like a radio transmission so its similar to the film. You don't really need an icomm as the Scouts (and technically all the Stormtroopers) never had static burst in the films. Its just perceived.

Good work so far. I feel the calves of the boots are a bit too tight, could be a more tapered shape bigger at the top. The left boot overlap closure in the back seems to be facing the wrong way? Also maybe the lower pants are a bit tight? Needs some blousing?

Sand, wash with detergent, prime, then top coat. I've found with painting lots of plastics, its better to avoid wet sanding the plastic itself as a 400 grit provides better "tooth" for the plastic to adhere to. The Krylon Fusion claims of direct adhesion to plastic is BS. I have tested it against standard Krylon, Rustoleum etc and it adheres no better than the others. Paint temperature and air temp and humidity are super important, as are clean hands and using a tack cloth before painting. My brother was an auto body tech for 15 years, learned a lot of simple tricks from him. If you want shiny finish, put on 5 top coats, let it cure a week, then wet sand that. Polish if needed.

Should be fine. The detail of the boots is more of the sides edges and not the bottom.

Avoid at all costs unless you actually want your money to vanish.

The scout is a good design in that many portions of the costume are soft parts (riding suit, cummerbund etc.) In general, Moncal armor is smaller. I have SC (Studiocreations) and although I am average height, I still modified some parts. I know SC makes smaller shoulder armor, perhaps they have other smaller parts too. The chest and back pieces may look the most out of proportion based on your build. You could try and trim them down. Check my build in The scout armor section. Might be some useful tips in there for you. Good luck!

Aker amps are the common amp many troopers use, especially the 1506 model. Jim at TK products is also a 501st member too. Light weight and fits into a cummerbund pouch perfectly. Icomm also gives you static burst. http://www.voicebooster.com/products.html

Just install some elastic Velcro straps on the inside of the boot. The rivets should go through the outer holster, through the white vinyl, through the elastic. Pad the inside slightly with foam to offset the boot shank properly. I haven't had any issues with "holster floppage". Check my build thread http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&st=120

Another Canuck! Welcome, glad you like the build thread. Yes, we have a good forest or two here.

Did you wash the plastic before you painted it? Its important to wash and rinse with dish detergent before you paint it as the plastic may have release agent on it from forming or finger prints. This will cause the rippling / orange peel. Another issue might be temperature or humidity.