chimei

the weathering actually looks pretty good...with just newspaper? i would also not be too careful when packing your stuff for transport to local troops. allow your pistol to flop about in your trunk/bag...things will get scuffed up pretty well and be super natural looking. of course, your pistol may need some touch ups, but i think that those weathering marks look great as well. i would swap out that snout though...for the more accurate one from MC.

i grabbed a suede shirt off ebay...$6, plenty of fabric for both riding patches and butt flap

well, i've seen some shotty scouts out there...and i've only been in for a year...which is why i appreciate the diligence that is going into basic and lancer CRLs. my LW helmet is almost done and i'm making my flak vest so i'll be applying for lancer soon. but pockets sewn on pants are easily removed.

looking good. the undersuit/vest built in has no back closure? that is the strangest thing i've ever heard! i'm then assuming that it's really just the sleeve part that's built in?

what is that pocket with snap? that would need to come off as well.

separates...indeed

i have a plastic insert as well...backed with the same stiffening material they use for shirt collars. i did experience some rubbing on my thighs...so i simply narrowed the plastic...and everything is fine. i like the idea of the fun foam stuff...may try that when i make my new bund

1) as someone who sews, i'd definately say "no top stitches" around the edge of the flaps. the reality is that there needs to be a seem turned insideout anyway...even before a top stitch is put in place to avoid the cut ends from fraying and pulling out of the seem. this change would simply mean that an addition step (top stitching) would be skipped. 2) that pic seems to have a squre-like demarcation...clearly dirty, but a little to "square" to be random dirt. however, if there are other scren caps that show "no velcro square" to be more screen accurate, i'd be happy to fix my pouch flaps...and it should be in the CRL for Lancer. 2) removing the top stitching for the velcro square would mean that the velcro square would need to be sewn to the right side of the fabric first...and the two pieces of the flap would be placed together (right sides together), sewn at 1/4", 3/8", etc. and then turned out. presto! no top stitching of any kind... 3) as for what seam allowance to use? this really depends on any other adjustments made to be sure the pouch looks proportional in the end. a 1/4" allowance is pretty typical though. that's my two cents.

it's been mentioned on the boards before. i would suggest taking everything in by 1/2" first on a paper pattern and hold it up to see if the size is better. if not, take another 1/2" and repeat. just be sure to take the 1/2" on all sides so that it is even.

very nice indeed

Love the painters tape to transfer the rank stripes. I'm totally stealing that for my upgrades.

LW - once again, you amaze me...these look amazing

I would only add that you have the forearms and the biceps reversed. The bicep has the T-bit. Just flip them. And remember that the small "dots" on the T-bit need to face forward when worn. Shoulders look better and leave the space on he other upper arm that will be crucial when wearing your flak vest

1) will fall off 2) will fall off 3) will fall off You definitely want to use a specific plastic adhesive. E-6000 is great.

1) depends on what you're riveting. the rivets on the boot attaching the top of the holster will likely be longer than the ones holding the vinyl to the boot base. if that one is too long, it'll dig into your foot. the ones holding the tank on only need to be long enough to sufficiently hold it on...but could be longer since they won't show or run the risk of rubbing the undersuit, bund, etc. i just bought a set of varied length 1/8" rivets at the hardware store. 2) glue gun? for what? 3) so they aren't pointy...but you don't want rounded edges...

i wouldnt do anything to those rivets until there is a post or answer from marcel...if you do need to have only one, it will involve removing both and centering the one rivet. it's a pain, but not too complicated. i messed up and misplace where i drilled a hole when building my helmet. had to repare that. if you have to go to one, i'll let you know how i did it...

hi... i just took a look as well and don't see the 1 or 2 rivet posted. i sent a PM to 4505Marcel asking if that was being reviewed...so watch for it. but i definately remember it saying one. you can also look at the screen caps and pics from the MOM...they show 1 rivet. this isn't always strong enough, so i did some support by adding plastic inside to help give it a bit more strength. check with your garrison's GML...but i don't think that painted rivets will work on the thigh straps. if you used GOOP to secure the velcro on your boots, it'll clean up pretty easily. i ended up having to shorten my boots, and had no problem cleaning it up...so you should be able to redo that with little difficulty. my elastic was too short on my shoulder bells as well. i went ahead and made lots of length as i knew i would need more "give" once i added the vest... keep up the good work. let me know if i can be of any more help

i'm not sure if anyone is still looking, but when i was doing my build back in the fall, i was saving everything. this is the "pattern" that i saved from some post here - credited to tom arroyo. i hope it's helpful to anyone still needing it. if this is a violation of posting rules/ettiquete, please let me know and i can take it down.

coming along nicely. a couple thoughts for you to consider... Small fixes: 1) the space between the "shoulder bridge" and the shoulder bells should be about an inch - maybe two. this will allow you to move more freely, match the film more closely, and leave plenty of room for the bicep plates. 2) shorten the thigh box webbing in the back - will help them hang more evenly across your thigh and prevent them banging about during troops Bigger fixes: 1) you riveted or snapped the webbing on the front thigh boxes? those should come out as they don't appear in any film stills...just stitch them so they keep in place. 2) it looks like you have two rivets holding the belt to the white webbing in the back. if i'm not mistaken, the CRL permits only one...but double check that 3) the closure on your right boot is incorrect. currently your boots both close to the right. so you'll need to revers the velcro on your right boot. both boot closure seems need to be be "facing inward". Future things: basic clearance will require the riding patches and the elastic thigh straps, and the additional strap on the knee pad, and the "mudflap" (though this may be part of the soft parts you ordered); cut the pattern into the boot heels hope these are helpful. it feels great to have something on and wearable...doesn't it!? i remember being at this stage and almost tasting my first troop... great progress...looking forward to more updates

what boot did you use as a base?

looking very nice. i notice a couple of things: 1) you need the fabric "bridge" to connec the chest and back armor, 2) the knees need a second elastic strap (maybe only for Lancer?), 3) the pouches look a little large. i'm thin like you and had the same issue. i took it down by 1/2" and they are better proportioned... overall, looks nice. now get that thing dirty!

thanks...but it's those little details that drive us crazy! as i'm working on my lancer upgrades, that color thing still bubbles up in my mind...

i totally get your "problem" as i feel the same way. however, i find that when i'm inside with standard lighting or outside, the difference in the color of my KS helmet and SC armor disappears. however, when photos are involved, things change. natural lighting is fine, but with a flash the difference really stands out...

great question. at this point, the closest i've found is 1.5" there was a olace in taiwan that had 1 3/8" but only in white...i'd love to have a source as well.

didn't work out?