chimei

i have a big nose, and found that i needed to put a piece of foam where my nose hit the faceplate. since then, total comfort. no scraping, no rubbing, it was the best thing i could have done...and helped me avoid having to mess with the padding elsewhere in the bucket

hey Chef...have a link to the UK ebay seller?...i'd be all over buying a couple pair

congrats

i agree...no need to use the corner thingy...and the chisel made my cutting a realtive piece of cake

sign me up for your first run!

great

i remember when my KS arrived in pieces. at first i thought, "oh, i should've paid the extra to have it assembled." but once i got into it, it wasn't so bad. good luck with it... also, don't use the screen in the "ears"...paint the inside black instead. screen-used buckets didn't have the mesh screens.

Wow. Those forearms look sweet! I like. I want!!

coming along nicely. be sure that that the bund is safely tucked under the armor. this could be adjusted easily by widening the space at the sides of the chest and back plates. i would also lower the belt so that the bund doesn't fall below. you'll have to check, but i don't know if the two rivets holding the three pieces of the belt together will pass. i used "oatey for abs, cpvc, pvc all purpose cement" #30821. this melts the pieces together. i made sure the front overlapped toward the back, all the way up to the box so that it was as invisible as possible. then i added little "belt loops" to the inside and then ran the nylon through it to give it that extra support. i've had no trouble with it breaking, cracking, or any weakness issues. it's held up very nicely, hope that helps.

my bad...i just saw it in the upper right "new postings" list...sorry.

be careful, the bund is not grey. it should be white...and it should be a heavy weight cotton. CUMMERBUND White or lightly weathered. Made out of white matt heavy weight cotton fabric and closes in back with 50mm (2") velcro. Should sit from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There should be no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Has a tapered crotch with inverted curve sewn in detail, made from the same material and sits between the legs and connects to the back of the cummerbund by a 50mm (2") black elastic strap. Has 6 or 7 vertical stitch lines producing 5 or 6 raised ribs (troopers choice) of equal width stitched into the front between where two fabric pouches are connected. Pouches may be white or off-white. here is the full CRL for the scout trooper: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9143

in addition to what others have said, it looks like you'll need 1) the butt flap, 2) riding patches on the inner thigh, 3) leg straps, and 4) lower the belt so that the cummerbund doesn't stick out below. i'd also lower the thigh boxes a tad...but that's my preference

the collar would need to be altered to close. that opening isn't accurate. the balaclava goes inside the collar, so it would show.

looks great!

coming along nicely. the only comment is that the TD greeblie is on upside down. the two "bumps" should point up, with the cylinder on the inside of the TD.

a pattern? not that i've seen. but no zippers or pockets can be visible.

i got a L suede shirt from ebay...$10...had enough for patches and flap...still have enough to make another flap is needed. cheep, no problems.

Did it already

it was surprisingly easier than i had thought.

1. yes...it's hidden under the "dog bone" 2. at the top? no. but i would suggest a second strip of ABS at the bottom of the holster as well as the one at the top...those rivets can really pull when you are slipping the boot on and off. 3. my next set of boots will include an attempt at doubling up the vinyl...so reduce the wear on it from bending so much, but it you use a stronger (thinker) vinyl, it should actually stand up well with trooping. the trick is to get it to "wrinkle" a bit to look natural, but not so much that it looks like they are 100 years old. selecting the right vinyl is key hope that helps. and as always...tons of stuff on the boards. start here (if you haven't already): http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=903

and here's a tutorial on youtube.com

any pics of it on a piece of armor?

you want to look for 3M speedglass bolts. there was a thread from someone doing a large order (http://forum.bikersc...owtopic=8800= visor bolt&st=0) but they said the grey ones aren't being sold. you can check out 3M (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/PPESafetySolutions/PPESafety/Personal_Protective_Equipment/Product_Catalog/~/3M-Speedglas-Headband-Assembly-Kit-SL-Welding-Safety-05-0660-00-1-EA-Case?N=4294696531+5011378&Nr=AND%28hrcy_id%3AWZ14Q4KK43gs_GPXTX60TMD_N2RL3FHWVK_GPD0K8BC31gv%29&rt=d) and/or check out the forum link.

high grit. got it. several passes to get surface smooth. got it. but by wet sanding, do you literally mean wet sandpaper or wet surface, or is this a technical term that i need to look up? ask me a sewing question and i'm all over it...but i failed shop class

hi all... so i'm needing to paint my armor. it's been weathered all along, but i want to paint it so that it matches my LW helemt. i plan to use a 'magic eraser' to clean off the acrylic paint weathering, but i have some sanding scuffs, too. so here's the question: what's the best way to sand the armor to get rid of older scuffs, sanding goofs that were turned into blaster spots, etc. so that i have a nice smooth surface to start over? of course i'm going to weather it again...but want a consistant white on all the armor. i have no idea what grit, method, etc. to use for sanding...hence only used the plastic when i built it. thanks