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Griffin-X

501st Legion (In Memoriam)
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Everything posted by Griffin-X

  1. All good options posted above. In my experience, the sanding can actually open up more pores and create even more problems, as you've seen. Different types of resins cause different reactions to friction. Also, the resin may not have fully cured or remained porous. The bondo trick usually works well since it seals it up nicely. Glad it all worked out.
  2. I echo the guys above. Ya, that suit is designed after the Tie/At-At flight suit; too many pockets. Looks like MC pics too. You could also go for a standard base coverall and do the mods yourself. http://www.automotiveworkwear.com/RedKap/CT10/coveralls.html
  3. Great work Debbi...another fine product from your shop.
  4. They are close but would require some serious mods to be passable.
  5. Some of us wear a jumpsuit, Flightsuit, a racing suit, or coveralls. I chose the Redkap coverall route for mine.
  6. Here in Texas, a textile suit is an automotive or painter's coverall...similar to Redkap.
  7. I think they are close, but not sure if they would be approved. It'll come down to your squad's Garrison Membership Liaison (GML) and just how close you get them after the mod. Also, you'll want to use suede (fake or pig) for the fingers, not velvet.
  8. Yes...TrooperBay is a great place to shop.
  9. Not bad, but still way off. The zipper section should be in the center, not to the side. So when you mod them they will look weird, IMO.
  10. It's actually not a new collar, just a small addition to the existing collar.
  11. I have the same thing within my lid.
  12. I use the Redkap coveralls. It was easy to remove the 4 pockets and I used 1 of the pockets to make a neck closure. It's very durable material and will last for many, many troops. Also a great price and comes in many sizes.
  13. I use the Schampa balaclava. It's lightweight and made of a cotton/silk-like material. http://www.jpcycles.com/product/131-229
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