mrbungle

well, tom. you arn't done with the build yet , why are you painting already? the reason we are painting is because the armor needs to be painted before you put all the greebs on. trust me you acn put all the greebs on first , then you get to tape all the greebs off. not fun. here is the next layer of paint. i latexed the chrome paint to show through the paint. then latexed the grey where i want it to show. i paint the inside of the pieces black. we do not want to see white plastic when we wear the armor. here is the armor after the base coat for the camo. see a layered paint job is not that hard!!!!

cumberbund looks good. your links are working.

i am tryin to get the girl who is making mine to do a run. here is the cumberbund with some armor on. man i haver to start working out again. this costume make me look fat. LOL

the KST's did not have a holster. they carried the dc-15 short or the dc 15 long. i believe. basicly assault and snipers.

now once you make sure the armor fits , you can start painting. i am a big fan a layered paint jobs becaused topical paint jobs look just like a topical paint job up close. props and costumes are all about illusion. we trying to make people think the costume is real not a bunch of plastic,resin and glue. \ for the paint i used i used dupli-coat for the crhome and primer. the darker grey primer. for the base coat i used benamin moore satin latex interior piant. thake this to the paint store to get the color. hc-96 +bk 1/2 +tg 1/2 that ios the formula the guy at the paint store needs to make your paint.. Polly scale, Panzer Olive green F505113 Tamiya Color, Flat Earth (brown) FX-52 item # 81359 Tamiya Color, Desert Yellow XF-59, item # 817 misting and weathering. black and kahki seems to work well. once we have the armor painted, we are going to start attaching the armor to the undersuit. also we will be puttting the rest of the greebs on. make sure the tank greeb fits before you paint the tank and back plate. but do not attach the tank greeb until you paint the tank. then paint the greeb. then glue the greeb in to the slot made for it on the tank. i lightly sanded the armor down with the 100 grit sand paper , dusted it off and painted a layer of chrome paint. i use liquid latex and a small brush to cover areas i want the chrome to come through. notice that the cod p[iece is not painted. we are going to cover it with a white cloth material adn paint it. the armor and cod are the same colors. but the cod is made of cloth. here is the pic of the armor all chrome. boy, ain't that pretty!!!! you are going to paint the inside of the smaller armor parts black so that if someone sees the inside of the armor they don't see white!!! it is all about illusion!!!

hey welcome again to bsn. if the armor is vacformed then it is david "eldictator" armor and the helmet is a recast of pghfett's helmet. pghfett's stuff is made of fiberglass. recasting is bad. you post pictures by putting the photobucket link in the post. copy and paste the img code below the pic you are trying to upload. i think the 501st calls them CB.

now that the hard parts are out of the way we can start putting this bad boy together. putiing the chest and back plat together is easy. you are going to need. velcro. canvas belt material. i took a piece of blt material and put a long strip of velcro on it. then took the other have of the velcro and cut it in half and put one piece on the inside of the chest piece and put the other on the backplate. now i am pretty skinny so i cut off some of the backplate top armor. so the back plate looks alittle wide. but on the uncut version they meet up pretty good and you are going to cover the area where the chest and back meet with the rubber straps anyways. here are the straps and the armor, notice the fiberglass on the backplate , i cracked it removing it from the mold. hey , it was my first one. i have figured out how to remove the backplate without cracking them. i cracked 3 before i got the hang of it. here it is together. you can put this on without any help. which is always a plus. where the back and chest meet. the bottom back plate overlaps the the front. this is accurate. do not try to make them meet flush. we are getting closer to paint, my favorite part!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the reason it will not work is because the cumberbund on the kst has vertical straps on the cumberbund with a mid-drift belt going around it. the tactical vest has horizonal straps and that would pose a big problem trying to alter. lonescout has an awesome tutorial up on how to make a cumberbund. just don't dye it green. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=4949 find a girl who can sew and buy her flowers and get her to make you one.

hey steve, welcome the KST section. the vest you are interested is not correct. tactical vest will not work because the kst wears a cumberbund. i hate to be a hard azz , but tactical vest don't look right. the one i am showing is a prototype and needs to be dyed grey.

thanks ,chris. now that the hard part is out of the way. we can move on to the other parts that need to be glued and bondoed. the bicep and shins are the other to hard parts but not as bad as the back plate and tank. on the biceps. they come in two halves. trim the armor down and cut a straight line on the edges that are going to meet. once you are happy with the way the two halves meet up cut up some strips of the forsale sign you bought. cut it up into 1 1/2" strips. if you need to make them bigger than the parts provided. you can buy some sintra from the hobby store and cut strips to the width needed. making the bicep piece bigger. you are going to fill in the gap with bondo. cut the strips to the length needed to fit inside the bicep part. use the heat gun to bend the sign strip to turn with the return edge of your bicep piece. glue into place and put your clamps on. you are going to glue the strips on both sides of one half of the bicep piece. then glue the two haves together with the strips in the inside of the bicep part. the flat looking end is the bottom of the bicep piece and the rounded off end is the top. it should look like this. and glued together , they should look like this. on this bicep piece make sure the green fits in the slot before you paint it. you might have to do some sanding on the slot and the greeb to get a tight fit. next the bondo. lightly sand the bicep pieces down with the 100 grit sandpaper. then apply the bondo. 2 coats then sand. here they are finished. do not paint the camo on until you know the piece is going to fit. it really sucks painting something up only to realize you have to work on it and mess up the paint. the shin are basicly the same as the biceps. measure ,cut and glue strips and glue together, then bondo. the main difference is you want as little return edge at the bottom of the shins as possible. your foot has to fit through there. here are the shins with the strips glued in. here hey are with the bondo. here they are finished. i have cut holes for the shin straps. i bought some canvas belt material for this and when you buy it. get about 4 foot. you will need to use some for the back and chest plate attachment. here is a pic of the straps on. on the buckles of the straps. i took some aluminium flashing and cut it the width of the buckle greeb and a little longer to bend back so it fits like a clip on the strap. here is a good pic of waht i am talking about. the greeb is glued to the aluminum then attached to the belt. once i have shin armo painted camo and finished i will permenently attach the straps and buckles to the shin armor. back with more later.

hey guys once, i finish the payed list , i am going to post armor in the trade forum from now on. basicly once i get a kit ready i will post it in the trade forum. thanks tom

OK, let's make it happen ,captian!!! this is a tutorial on how to put my kashyyyk scout armor together. when you get it , i do some trimming on the armor but let you do the final trimming. some like alot of return edge, some do not. the return edge is the edge of the armor that turns down at the edge of the armor. you are going to need some skill to put this kit together. anyone who has done a TK or clone should not have any problems with this build. the most important thing is to take your time and have fun. this is the basic kit. minus helmet. for this build you are going to need. table top sander or dremal tool. sand paper, 60 grit and 100 grit. clamps glue. spray paint. primer grey. the darker the better. some plastic forsale signs. heatgun. and lots of free time. there are some dimples and stuff in the armor. the camo paint job on this costume will hide some stuff, like bad spots and stuff. first you are going to trim all the armor edges. leave some return edge on all the armor parts. about an 8th of an inch do not cut any of the actual armor off. if you cut off a any of the length off a piece it will give you fits trying to put it on. mainly the tops of the front plate and back plate. i did this kit out of hips. it holds paint better than abs and bonds well with glues and bondo. bondo is your friend. when working with bonod , wear a mask. the fumes and dust can give you lung cancer. lung cancer is bad. ALWAYS SAND THE PART LIGHTLY BEFORE YOU PUT THE BONDO ON. it will flake off if you do not. EDIT i put the taniks together for you. so you do not have too. of the parts the back plate and the tank are the only rough parts of the kit. they are very deep pulls and it is hard to get good looking pulls of the back plate and tank. you are going to join them together and bondo them any way. so it will hide some of the imperfections of the casting. also there will be thin spots in the armor. mainly on the back plate because of the depth of the pull. i have tried everything i can to get rid of them . other than going to a thicker plastic. which i am thinking about. but the thicker the palstic, the less detail you get. if you get a thin spot. get some fiberglass resin and mesh. lightly sand the inside of the thin spot , put resin on with a cheap paint brush, then put the mesh on and cover with a coat of resin with the cheap paint brush. i kinda of dab on the mesh. this also works well on cracks on the edges if you crack one. you want your armor to look like this. if your armor looks like this , then you need to do some more sanding on the return edges. after that prime the piece with primer. any bad spots will now rear thier ugly head. if need be do some more sanding and priming. it should look like this when done with this stage. more later.

lord knows he is going to need those "skillz" to build my kit!!!

thanks ,tony. great review. i thought you were a little too kind to me. but i will take what i can get! being the first armor i have ever sculpted and sold so there are bound to be glitches but i plan to get better over time. to give you an example of my journey throught this, i had never vacformed until i pulled my armor for the KST. HA! i had to build the vactable before i could do that and sculpt the armor before that. so this has been a very informative project for me. i have learned tons from the start of this project. i plan to do a tutorial and post it on this board. you are the next to last guy getting that helmet. i am no longer selling the version one. the mold is about shot and version II is coming along and will make the old helmet look like bantha poo doo. also anyone who has ordered armor from me , please be patient. i am working as hard as i can without having a stroke! plus i want you to be happy with your kit. thanks again, tony. i look forward to watching you work on the KST. hopefully there will be more and more kst's trooping as we go along.

that is crazy, i would have wanted to kill the guy. on some rough spots on the armor you mentioned, most will be gone once you porperly trim the armor. the back plate and tank are the hardest part of this build. i cut out the hole for the tank but it will need to be trimmed more to get the tank to fit. buy some clamps to glue all the pieces together. some of the pulls are so deep it is next to impossible to get really clean pulls. unlike tk or clone armor some of the pulls are over 10 inches deep.

sweet, glad you like the kit, buddy. i am glad it got there ok, i sent some armor to a friend and the box got crushed . you have alot of work ahead of you. just take your time and buy a table top belt sander and your life will be much easier. one of these. it will save you alot of time. http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Sander-Table-B...0/dp/B000T9Q6HS

make sure you sand the armor before putting the automaotive filler on or it will just flake off. i used a plastic forsale sign and a stromg household glue, then put the bondo over the joints.

try to ask for this tony,CRC automotive filler at your automotive parts store.

the dye didn't work oj the shirt for some reason, it was the same thread that came with the shirt. i don't get it. what do you think of the cumberbund and pouches , angelo??

here we are still working on the prototype cumberbund. the cod piece i plan to cover it with cloth and paint it. i have painted the pouches with spray paint to get the different shades and stuff. the camo on the armor is not the pattern on the pouches. still have to finish the buckle and paint the belt.

here is the prototype cumberbund. the pouches need to be painted to lighting them or darken them. this is my friend's 2nd attempt at doing the cumberbund, she is getting better. need to move the belt down some and make it more narrow. also needs to be dyed and weathered. she is currently making the 3rd one and hopefully we will have it pretty close. anywhoo here is a pic.

here is my test paint job. in the shadows it shows the green tint , in the sun there is none. what do you guys think????

they look pretty good except i like the front pads better on the first pair you did. the pads need to be seperate and a little smaller.

here is roguescout's kit ready to ship and 2 more kits ready to go.

awesome shot.