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Posts
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Days Won
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Everything posted by Chex
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They went with the color because the soles of the original base boot you see, were just that. The cuts in the sides that we do for Lancer approval, and the solid tan color, were the actual unmodded sole of the original base boot.
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Foam. It gives you the shape without making it look too stiff.
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Yep..Star Fortress. As a rule of thumb..never buy from them..ever.
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Congrats!
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TB7268 requesting Lancer Status (PENDING)
Chex replied to ackredies's topic in Lancer Deployment Request
Just a few quick things since I'm on my phone. Your bund needs to go up under your chest. Chest needs to be pulled down so that the front and back are more even. On your suit..is that real suede of faux suede? Drop boxes can come down another inch. And your pouches will have to be reworked..they're way too long. Also..do you have 5 or 6 ribs on the bundĺ -
How many yards of vinyl needed for boots?
Chex replied to Gato's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Soft Parts
I'd go with 3 yards, just to be safe. It'll leave you extra for mistakes, and in case you need to redo something in the future. -
Looks good. Stand by.
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TB-22011 requesting Lancer Status (APPROVED)
Chex replied to Daelma's topic in Lancer Deployment Request
Vest sleeves are def too long. Ideally you want no more then an inch or below the bottom part of the shoulder bell. I'm not crazy about the amount of suede you have showing on the front of your legs, looks to be too much. Butt flap seems a little long. Forearm armor needs to slide down a little and rest on top of your gloves a little. Your strap joining the chest and back on the sides needs to be white, to match your pouch and hip box webbing. Pouches can be brought up a little more..too much of a gap between the actual pouch and chest. Your suit could be tailored a little better in the legs. There's an excess of material there. Yourleg straps keep it tight, but it looks bunched up and sloppy. Weathering..def tone it down. Did you scratch the armor up while weathering, or just weather it with paint? Remember, that in the movies the weathering just consisted of misc sprays from a rattle can. No permanent scratching on the armor is needed. Rivets on the knees need to be painted white. And the belt. (What Marcel said.) I know it seems like a long list of things, but they're all minor and shouldn't take you much time to fix at all. You're def on the right track. -
Rattle cans, brother. Airbrushing is great for detail, or trim pieces. With the amount you're gonna paint, def go with spray can. Just remember, light sand the armor, prime it, wet sand, prime it again, wet sand, paint, wet sand, paint, wet sand, lol...light passes, don't go to heavy on the paint.
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Your thermal detonator as it is is not approvable. Per the CRL, you need the correct greeblies as stated in the CRL, which means you either need some serious modding, or just scratch that one and buy a different one. SC makes a nice one you can get fairly quick. Your belt, as it is, is not approvable as it's linked with webbing. It needs to either be, or resemble a one piece belt. The armor as a whole is old. I really don't want to be negative here, but I would seriously look into replacing these parts of the armor. Belt TD Chest Back w/tank Biceps Hip boxes I know that's a lot. But I'm just being honest with you here. The belt and TD need to be changed before approval. Everything else I would recommend you change when you have the time and money. And for the weathering..tone it down a bit like the others said. Sorry brother, I don't mean to come off as harsh or mean. But there are better options out there. Good job with what you've done so far, and please don't let me discourage you.
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I'm surprised Lewis doesn't at least want to try to inquire on your behalf. The only thing you can do, is to keep on contacting him. Is he a Legion member? If so, contact his CO or SL.
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SC armor building materials
Chex replied to Fistful of Energon's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Armor/Helmet
Check out PandaTroopers build thread. You don't have to follow it to a tee, but it should give you some really good insight. -
It gets easier, the more you do. It's one thing I hate about the KS helmet, is that snout ridge isn't the most..symmetrical.
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Not bad. Your back closure for the belt will need to be switched to a velcro overlap, like TKs and TDs do their belts. The clip is no longer acceptable for Lancer.
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What Lou said, but I call it natural weathering. You'll see it on my scout at SWW, Ed.
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Not bad. And when going for Lancer, you can always ask John for help since he's there lol.
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Sweet..man we need a speeder bike display here in Fl.
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Congrats brother. Welcome to the club!
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Ahh..I remember when my armor was that clean.
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It can be done. Looks good. Do you have your boot holster attached?
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My gloves came modded, but it looks like they just cut out the zipper and that was it. Would love to find another pair of those gloves though. They're the best.
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For the bolt covers. When we judge for Lancer, some if it is appearance, some of it is what you actually have. You don't have to use the whole bolt. My KS came built, so I pulled the crap bolt covers off, took the 3m and cut off the thread and grind down the back a little, then glued in place. It works. For that, we really only need the appearance. If you're worried about paint rubbing off, maybe you could file down the inside of the visor? I'm not sure since I don't have an MLC bucket. The primer I used though when I built my clone, and also when I repainted my KS bucket, was an automotive primer I bought at Lowe's. It's the light gray one which was recommended to me by Evo3, and I trust his judgement. As for the vents above the snout, just use the decal.
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Muuuuch better.
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When I painted my KS (cause I let it yellow), I used Rustoleum light gray auto primer, and then Rustoleum high performance gloss white enamel. Both of which I picked up at Lowe's. I also wet sanded in between each coat. Came out with a nice finish and has held up nicely.