Witness

iPhone sucks at editing on these forums, I should have waited till I got back to the office. I accidentally deleted half my post.

I have edited my post to be less confrontational. My apologies.

My opinion was based simply on appearance and materials. it is true that the screen used items were not fiberglass, except some of the stunt stuff. As for MLC helmets, I would recommend the Kropserkel over the MLC any day. The MLC snout is a bit longer than the screen used, the visor and faceplate are a single piece. However, it is a fairly good representation of the helmet and enough to pass. We need to keep the rules strict enough, yet simple enough for some to pass. Again, it's about appearance. Some of the armors you posted have issues, some have tank size and backplate size issues (the KS is notorious for this), the mystery armor is not even going to be part of the discussion, it's way off. And lastly the last photo, which I guess is the MLC armor (I have never seen any in person or offered up on BSN), shows a tank which is part of the backplate. They are two separate pieces. Not everything is perfect. if we strived for total perfection, none of us would be good enough, there is nobody here with 80+% accurate in my mind. It doesn't mean it's not good enough. Lately, we've had a rash of people supporting/making various items and pushing them, asking for opinions, then not liking the opinions provided. Well I'm sorry about that. If you ask my opinion, I'm going to give it to you, DL or not. As DL, it's more important for me to be honest than anyone. People spend money based on my opinion and others here on the forums. If I'm asked my opinion about an item and it doesn't look right or is made from a material that the screen used one was not, I'm going to say so. I'm not going to say "Oh that is fabulous and I recommend it completely" when someone asks about an undersuit in two pieces, made of silk with mesh for comfort and coolness. That's not how the screen used one was. Our attempt in the 501st, and on this forum is to try and get as close to the screen used as possible, over the years, it's gotten better, closer and some makers are pushing out some great stuff, some, on the other hand are not. I'm sorry you don't like my opinion. I'm allowed to have it as you are yours, as is anyone else. Please do not question my desire to do right by this detachment and this costume again, it's very uncalled for and as you said, slanging. Reminds me when people say "Well I don't mean to be insulting, but (insert insult)". You have the ability to set the standards yourself. You can run for election and win. The current standards, both lancer and base crl were set by myself and previous and current leaders of this detachment, along with valued others for input.

Just a reminder to everyone that despite all of this LFL approved artwork, anything other than a holdout blaster is still not canon. Be careful what you troop with anything else.

As posted on Facebook. HATE YOU!

MikeC23 removed it after he lost a discussion about the racing suit. I'll lock the post so it falls to the bottom.

Thank you John for stating the obvious, which a lot of people seem to be missing when they make a prop replica costume. We are trying to make the costume as accurate as possible to the screen used one for look and feel. If I make the armor out of steel plate, it will be VERY robust and never bend and the little kids will break their fingers poking me, and it will look BETTER than the screen stuff, and I'll add flashing lights and racing stripes and stuff and it will look great.... ...but it won't look like or be like the screen used stuff. When people keep telling me it looks better to have something cleaner and missing the film details, or carrying a BFG or flashing lights and a bright gold or silver lens, I can only replay with... "what costume do you think you are making?" Fiberglass is an option, a heavier, less flexible, less screen accurate option.

You need to hurry up

I tacked my vest to my cummerbund, the use a velcro on my cummerbund to my chestplate, so my cummerbund doesn't drop and show my man bits...

The length of the drop box strapping varies depending on the size of your hips. As a rule, you don't want the drop boxes hanging too low. Here is a good example of how they should sit. And apologies to the person in this picture, but this is NOT how it is done...

But that is the only enjoyment those of us who have already gone through this get. We get to sit and watch someone else yell "DOH!"

And don't gain weight after making your cummerbund...

Ahhhhh! I managed to pass on some info and it worked! Woohooo! Looks great!

On top or behind doesn't really matter. Mine is on top. And I know from my belt that the part to the back is longer. It is on the photo, just not as much as yours.

I'm picky, but not that picky. We have to make due with whatever boots we can get. I'm lucky to have boots that are mostly the same color. I don't ask people to paint the soles, but if they want to, have at it. Now, if we're talking a multi-color sole where one of them is a primary color, then we'll have to talk

They are a little baggy above the dogbone up the calf, but they look really good, clean lines. If you apply for Lancer, you will need to make cuts in the soles.

LOL!

yes, see photo below. photo courtesy of bjsavage7

Two rivets on the tank are not acceptable for Lancer. Only 1 rivet allowed through the tank topper.

1. I had my garrison armorer make a tongue by cutting the backplate and folding it back so the single rivet through the tank topper would also hold the top of the tank to the backplate. 2. Short side 3. Yes, you can use a piece of ABS, I used a special large metal disk washer. For the life of me, I can't remember what they are called. 4. All attachments at buckles should be sewed. PS. If you are intending to go for lancer, you will need to replace your white nylon webbing straps on your drop boxes with off white cotton webbing.

I haven't spoken cockney for years. I spend less time online since me trouble and strife had the first basin of gravy. Always too barb wired to chat with me mates these days.

Check out the gallery picture of a screen used helmet. You will find how they did it with the screen helmet there. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?auto...q=sc&cat=13

1. It would not be as neat as doing it by machine and definitely not as strong. I would say no hand sewing. 2. Yes, it's a good idea if you are costuming to learn to use a sewing machine. I bought one when I was starting and taught myself to sew. I made my own cummerbund, vest, boots and assembled another person's costume as well. I've done all the sewing for 3 biker scout costumes. You'll also find you can do things around the house, like hem pants, mend rips... 3. Poppers? You mean rivets? or snaps? Use velcro to hold the shoulder bells to your vest/undersuit. If you velcro your shoulder bells, you won't need a t-junction. I use snaps on my cummerbund to hold my belt in place. One side through the cummerbund, other glued to belt. Use pop rivets for connections on the belt, except for the plastic fasteners, those need to be sewed.

MonCal greebles (photo courtesy of Ducman82) DIY style greebles (photo courtesy of Lonewolf -pre alteration) Both of these sets of greebles would be approvable. You will find that most Lancer use MonCal greebles. Lonewolf changed from what he had pictured above to MonCal greebles on his final Lancer application, but I would have approved his DIY style greebles actually made by Don Jarr I believe.

It can take several days to a week or more to hear from MonCal. He has been extremely busy and has posted so on this forum. You've only been at your build for a few weeks. Patience yound padawon...