Chef

Here's a set of braces we have over here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MENS-HEAVYDUTY-BRACES-BLACK-SUSPENDER-ELASTIC-2-50mm-Width-122CM-W68-/350747190618?pt=UK_Braces&hash=item51aa29655a Whilst not exact again, the grain of the fabric is similar, with the sealed edging. And likewise, whilst searching, I found this Upholstery Elasticated Webbing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-metres-ELASTIC-UPHOLSTERY-WEBBING-for-seats-furniture-FREE-P-P-/310600037029?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric&hash=item48513472a5 Again, similar. And it certainly opens another avenue of investigation.

Just a bit of nostalgia I thought I'd share. A picture of the evolution of my lid, showing a couple of the recent updates. I had these three lids to do all at the same time, so it was nice seeing them all lined up. Couple of Lids finished up.. And one for the Spec Ops boys!

Well... nailing down whether there is any stretch or not would certainly narrow down the field somewhat. I know the following isn't the right stuff, but it has a different texture to the standard elastic we know and love. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wide-Woven-Elastic-Ladies-Waist-Belt-Dress-Making-Flexible-Strap-Sewing-Tape-/271432886993?pt=UK_Crafts_Sewing_Supplies_MJ&var=570293623894&hash=item3f32a92ad1 or this one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-Black-Non-Roll-Elastic-/350393113924?pt=AU_Sewing&hash=item51950e9d44 And as weird as this one might be!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-20-yards-Velcro-Elastic-Reusable-Stretch-Loop-Soft-19mm-25mm-50mm-3-4-1-2-/191163959771?pt=UK_Crafts_Sewing_Supplies_MJ&var=490322239519&hash=item2c824289db Just a random thought here, could they be made from some braces (you call them suspenders I think over in the states) type material??

certainly does like old telephone cabling. I remember similar stuff on our old phones here in the UK back in the 80's... But as has been mentioned already, I don't think it's a UK item, as they were made in the states. Cat5 cable or similar?? for a modern alternative.

It's definitely a belt clip of some description. The newer Makita clips are way too wide. I've got some and they're closer to 2" wide. At least I can adjust my drawings now.

Looks neat... No doubt there are a million questions about this that we can ask. I like how the belt has the same vac form webs between the centre and 2nd boxes. I managed to achieve these on my belt too, but took them out because people would complain about them when it came to clearance. I've a stack of question about the buck for the belt, but I doubt you can share that info, so I won't ask. Things that you may be able to clear up. Strapping sizes. such as shoulders, biceps, forearms, belt, knees, drop boxes, thighs etc. Pouch sizes, and whilst these would be great, should probably not be definitive because everyone is different and they should be scaled to the individual. But at least it would give us a definitive 'scale' to work to. interesting about the bund... curious as to how the lower part attached to the flak vest? Must be a very large bit! Anyway, I could go on for hours... Thanks for sharing.

I believe they are ever so slightly off centre (not as much as yours). I would say as long as the rivet is in place, it being slightly off centre shouldn't be an issue if you're going for Lancer standard. Let's wait on Marcel and the rest of the guys for their opinions on the issue.

Interesting..... Bit chilly on the tootsies though!

Might be wrong, but I think MLC only goes through MC anyway??

yeah, that's getting there. Are your pouches on Velcro?? because they need to come in a touch. line the inner edges of the pouches up with the edge of the ribbing and you'll be golden, Don't forget to get some padding in those pouches to give them some shape. Obviously it may need tweaking about a bit when you get your chest plate and belt on. But I don't think there will be any issues. Good job that man.

Have a look on eBay. (as much as we tell you not to). Stick in Biker Scout gloves and a couple of sets come up. They're of decent quality and detail. As good as you'll find anywhere.

The very same.

Yup, they go to the grey tube bud. The clip is drilled for a 4mm rivet, so get some long ones and a couple of 4mm washers. It's a bit fiddly because you have to try and get the washer over the rivet whilst its inside the tube. (Whilst the end caps are off, obviously). They sit approximately in the middle of the tube between the main TD and the end cap.

Fake as a fake thing... Keep an eye on that seller. He's dodgier than a 9 pound note.

What the man said. ^^^^

As above.

Here's a screen used shot. As you can see the patch starts just above the knee plate and comes to 'almost' the front 'seam' line that you'd find on a pair of say suit trousers.

Firstly I'd contact MLC and find out what primer he used on it. Paint is a fickle beast and if you get it wrong, and you end up with a wrinkly mess. When you know what he used, you can tailor your paint to suit. Detailing... I'd go with decals like the originals. Whether you use vinyl or water transfer ones, is entirely up to you.

I think the point is, that you're going to be spending pretty much the same amount of money on what you would FOR THE ENTIRE COSTUME (including a lid) on the eFX lid alone. And then, you may not want to troop that lid anyway! Yes, if it's GRP and made correctly, it'll stand up to the abuse (mine is over 5 years old, been kicked from here to kingdom come and is none the worse for it), but that's assuming it's made correctly, and you're happy to take that risk. I made mine, and I can repair it if it gets damaged. So I don't consider any risk, I just enjoy trooping. Would I enjoy my trooping as much if I was constantly worrying about people and.... Definitely not. Part of the fun is getting stuck in, no matter what the odds. What armour are you planning on getting? Odd question I know, but if say you're planning on getting KS or Atin, then really a super spanky lid like the eFX one, would seem a little odd, considering the inaccuracy of the armour set. I don't think any of us are saying "Don't buy it".... If you can afford it, then fill your boots. But I think most of us would say, "Don't get fixated on it. There are a lot of options out there and most are probably cheaper and more practical for trooping in".

I am just as confused as you are Philipp. I suppose we'll just have to wait and see when they appear in people's hands. But I totally agree.. It will allow a measurement by measurement comparison and the fan sculpts can then be adjusted to suit.

I don't think so Philipp. I've worked with GRP for many years and whilst it can 'move' and shrink, it's generally quite stable and does come out as the mould is. You say the legend edition doesn't have this annoying spot... I disagree. Take a look here! http://www.efxcollec...ll-payment.aspx I can't pull the pictures to highlight, but I can still see it. That corner on the faceplate is flared outwards ever so slightly as you can see from the front shot. You can also see the join mismatch between the faceplate and the main bucket. The gap is much wider at the top where it meets the shroud. And on the right hand side, the line from the bottom of the faceplate to the bucket seems out too. You can also see that the Legend is also made from GRP (you can see the weave marks on the inside of the shroud where they've used Chopped Strand Matt. So it would appear as though they're taken from the same moulds as the standard one. And if this IS a moulding flaw then they're all likely to have this, which doesn't bode well in something so expensive. But it would appear they've pretty much all sold out, so EFx will be happy. I just hope the recipients are too.

Me too.

+1 Eric. Nice one.

I am the only one who finds this little detail join here a little disturbing??

Hot glue all the way for me.... And I've made gods knows how many lids. Start at the bridge of the nose, and push the lens firm into the bridge. Hot glue the inside with a big dollop and let it set. This will hold the lens in place around the rest of it whilst you then add in more spots of glue. You may end up with small gaps just either side of the bridge of the nose and very occasionally across the brow of the forehead (depending on your type of lid) but this is sometimes a good thing as it creates little ventilation holes that stop you fogging up and you can't see them from the outside anyway. I very rarely get any seepage from back to front, and on the rare occasion it does happen. Let it set hard, then carefully trim it away with a sharp blade. Follow the outside line of the opening, directly at 90 degrees to the lens to minimise any marking of the lens itself. Then just pick the errant blob off with your finger nail. To date, I've not once screwed up a lens.