Chef

So you'd advise people to get a KS bucket over an MLC lid? Also, I point you to these. (in particular the Mystery Armour) and this. Then this. (it's a flip, I know...sorry) I can't fathom such a comment! I don't think the substrate has much bearing on the screen accuracy. Surely the look of the thing does. And by the same rationale, seeing as the LANCER standard is supposed to reflect the highest screen accuracy, ANYONE who has used a fibreglass bucket (MLC included) or a Modded Rubies bucket (vinyl) shouldn't be granted that title because it doesn't reflect Screen Accuracy. The screen ones were ABS. Any TK using a resin or pipe made blaster, aren't being screen accurate, because the screen used ones were De-activated ones. I don't wish to get into a slanging match about it. I have my opinion and you have yours. But as Detachment Leader, to say such a comment which casts some serious conflict over the Costume Standard, I think is a little unwise. I shall get back in my box now.

The black fish hook style one is the one you find on the Licensed Rubies lids and is very very incorrect. Sorry, Grant, this one is going to have to come off and be replaced. Likewise, the black stripes should all be the same length. There is some debate over this one and the origins of the shorter lengths, but it would appear that Rubies took the reference from either a damaged lid and or a picture that had some light exposure blotting out the tops of a couple of the stripes.

I have to disagree with you all here. I've been wearing fibrelgass armour for ages now and it's bomb proof. The only time it's fragile is if the glass lay-up is thin. If it's made with a gel coat, then a skin of tissue and maybe a 1 ounce mat, then sure, it's going to be as fragile as hell and will break as soon as you look at it. If you start to add more glass layers, then the inherent rigidity comes to the fore. A 2-3 ounce lay-up is probably best, providing a decent panel strength combined with relative light weight. They do make car body panels out of it after all!! Weight wise, my glass bucket isn't that much heavier than a vinyl rubies lid. I've even been airsofting in my set (I'm not precious about my kit, I like to have fun in it) and I was more than able to run around in it all day. It suffered no more damage than a bit of chipped paintwork from a particularly up close and personal shot. Granted it doesn't have as much give as an ABS set, but it's certainly just as durable. Plus it actually 'feels' like Armour. I don't get kids going 'oh it's only plastic' when they rap on it with a grubby paw. Like they do on the TK's standing next to me. I'd have fibreglass over ABS any day of the week.

well, the BEST thing is more resin and glass.... But in the absence of that, any two part epoxy glue (Araldite or your local equivalent) will do. I've also had very good success with a hot glue gun on my fibreglass lids. Although you have to be careful, if the glass lay-up is thin (say 1-2mm) then you can suffer localised warping of the resin (I'm not talking Rubies here, just a bit of surface imperfection).

well, you see I'd go a couple of grades finer. Gloss it, wet flat it back with 1200, gloss it again.... rinse and repeat at least twice. Finish off with a wet flat 1500/1600 grit. Polish with some rubbing compound. G4 Farecla or your local equivalent. That should give you a mirror finish. I see you've already added some gloss coats. Knock the top off it with some 1200. dry it. hold it in the light, you'll see the low spots as still shiny. These need to be removed until the whole panel has a dull sheen. switch to 1500, give it the quick once over. Polish..... Done. Just be careful and take it easy. Top tips. Add a little washing up liquid into your water. Helps clear the paint from the paper and leave your paper to soak for 5 mins before using it. You should be ok to sand over them, but you MUST STOP as soon as you think you are near to striking through to the decals.

I have done two things on mine. Around the edges of the pouches I have sewn a very fine seam on all the faces. It's not enough to make a rib (for want of a better more technical word), but is just enough to define the edge of the pouch. I've also made a box out of plastic card and fitted this inside of the pouch. I've also used foam, and that's just as good. The box just allowed me to store stuff inside it.