Chef

Glad to see you've seen sense and got a Scout.... So enough of being a bobble-head. Welcome to the Elite!

that angle is easily achieved by leaning the faceplate ever so slightly forward at the top when building them. so more than likely it's an MLC.

It's always best to use some form of backing when riveting ABS, otherwise the rivet head can end up pulling through the plastic, damaging it. A washer is best practice, but you can use a bit of scrap ABS at a push.

I'm with Phillip on this one. I had a Vinyl bucket and it would retain it's shape for about 3 weeks before doing something weird. I think what ever mould they came out of would bear no relevance to what actually arrived in the shops. Being stuck on a warm shelf for months on end would no doubt cause untold warping. I think when the EFX one is released, a lot of answers will be there. Despite it being a GRP bucket, the size and detailing should reveal a lot.

Yup, from the Bay, about £6 each. Search for Makita Belt Hook

I sent you a PM a few days ago bud.

nothing bud... I used mine as regular biking gloves for about a year (come rain, snow, sleet or sun) and they've not suffered any ill effects. Which can only be testament to how awesome these gloves are.

Depends on your definition of inexpensive. I think CUCblack does one. Or at least he did. I can do one (although postage to the states and exchange rate would be the killer). I'm sure there are a couple of others, but they escape me at the moment.

It's one of those things... If you want something that is exactly as the screen used lid, even down to the build method, then GRP isn't the way to go. It's certainly not a cost issue here, because moulding one and then producing a bucket in GRP is considerably more time consuming than pulling one from ABS. The cost for making them in ABS, comes from the construction method. The lid that John makes is awesome, but because of it's awesomeness it's actually a pretty involved build, and potentially beyond the skills of the novice builder. They then need painting. With GRP, you can gel coat it white, make the bucket all one piece and end up with a relatively simple build. As for the finish, that depends on how good their moulds are. If they use a silicone jacket mould for ease of production, you are more likely to suffer dips and warps as the GRP can pull on the jacket as it cures. You're less likely to get this using a hard mould, but it is more time consuming to use. I think EFX are barking up the wrong tree with this one, if they intend to use GRP, mainly because I think most people would want one to be ultra screen accurate, even down to the build process... I could be wrong on that, and people will just buy one anyway.

yeah, take it steady and you'll be fine. Jeff's stuff is pretty fool proof (as proven by the post above... even a fool can do it!! hehehehehh). Depending on your size, it shouldn't need that much trimming (if any) and it's all pre-cut with the holes, so it's just a question of gluing the velcro bits in the right place and making sure you cut the straps to the correct size for your body. My advice: use a popper in the centre of your velcro for added troop-ability rough the ABS up with a bit of sandpaper where you plan to stick the velcro Use a bit of webbing strap across the shoulder bridges before wrapping them with the cloth covers. and most importantly... TAKE YOUR TIME and ASK QUESTIONS IF UNSURE.

Someone on here stuck theirs on with velcro.... (for when the "which way" debate is solved). That would certainly raise it up enough.

problem solved then. apart from the inconvenience.

Hey Dallas, I don't own that suit, but making an educated guess, you probably won't "need" to dye the cuffs, because like you say, they will be covered by the gloves and boots. Although you may want to, just out of a sense of completeness. The torso section may not need to be removed, as it is likely that it will be covered over by the cummerbund. Obviously you'll need to try this with the bund before you can be sure of this bit. If there are any patches, zips, pockets or other such things that are visible, then they'll need to be removed. Then you'll need to add your suede patches, flap and straps on. that's about it.

Tracey, if you have trouble getting hold of him through FB, just let me know and I'll drop him an email for you.

Well, obviously I'd say as "little as possible". But as bad as they are, they do still hold some of their value. Over here, they seem to hover around the £70 mark, so if over there in the US of A, you can get one for $70 or less, you'll still be well on target for making a decent bucket for less than the price of a kit, that you may still have to modify as Colin suggested. Best thing to do, is watch the market a bit, hunt around and grab a bargain.

I'm not sure I'd do another one.... But I'm glad I did. I'd try and find some better reinforcing material. and try and embed it in the shroud and faceplate. I used a bit of thick wire, and even with that, if left somewhere even vaguely warm (like the garage, where all my kit is stored!) it would warp out of shape. It was a great bucket to do, certainly cheaper (even after modding) than any of the kits out there, the end result looked better than a KS bucket (in my opinion, no offence to any KS owners), and the experience taught me a lot. Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it), I became very fed up with it (after reshaping it for the third time....) and used it to cast one out of fibreglass.

The OMP ones are good 1 looks to be better than 3, but from what I've been told about the OMP suits, they don't come as shiny as they look in the pictures. I know Lonewolf has the OMP Mechanics Overalls type suit and he says it's about as good as they come. Avoid the Sparco one.

Yes, the KS drop boxes are like wearing a pair of picnic cooler's compared to the screen accurate ones. It is only an observation regarding the routing. The clips should work, i.e. be able to split apart, but from the screen grabs, the actual length is not adjustable. If you look closely, the top strap goes through the clip, so only the main part of the buckle shows, and the bottom bit goes through so you can see the main buckle and one band of black. Plus there doesn't appear to be any loose ends showing. Pouches, just bring them in to the ribs then. I think thats right anyway looking at your frontal shot. I was just judging distance from the picture (not an exact science). They are just very picky tweaks. Whether your GML will be that picky..... Only he knows.

I think once I got over the initial shock of working out it's taken in a mirror (I was like.... aaaragh the chest grey detail is on the wrong side!!)... You're good. A few tweaks, but nothing serious. I can't tell from your pictures whether your suit has the suede patches and straps on the thighs. Pouches could do with some padding, just to define their shape a bit more. And if you can, I'd probably bring them in about an inch on either side. You ideally want the inner edge of the pouch to line up with the outer edge of the grey box on your chest, then match up the other side to suit. Drop box straps. The clips could have the webbing routed a bit better. Makes them look less like clips. Bit difficult to describe, but take a look at these screen grabs. http://forum.bikersc...llery&image=414 http://forum.bikersc...allery&image=64 Also, can you hide away the Zip up the front of your suit? Beyond that.... I think some better quality pics might help. I have the same problem. iPhone camera is garbage.

you'll find it's thin on the back because it's such a large pull. The bigger the bit that gets pulled, the thinner it will be in the middle areas. That's why the original bucket was made in two halves, rather than one big section across the back with the dome on top.

I think the problem occurs because things like vests and bunds are person specific. I've got some basic templates of what they should look like (roughly), but not a "how to" as a such.

for me... I'd say no. What did you pay for that?? $150+. If it isn't what you're happy with, then it's not worth it. It's not a question of, is this OK and just how it is.... You were not sold a bucket with the knowledge that it would be all wrinkled etc. But that's just me being a grumpy old swine. Jeff doesn't sell bad pulls (from what I've seen) and neither does MonCal. So why should it be accepted from KS.

yarp.. If I got it all right all the time Jim, there'd be nothing for you to pull me up on! And that's no fun now is it. hehehehhehe.

Hi Jaime, Just to clarify for you. The mudflap is now required for Standard Clearance. This has been a recent change, in the last few months. Things that were "Lancer Only", that are NOW required for standard Clearance are the following. Butt/Mud Flap Flak Vest Crotch Riding Patch Thigh Straps. hope this helps.

Griffin, I think the jury is still out on this one. I've posted a number of screen grabs that appear to show the greeblie in either orientation. Check out this post. #36 They are not very clear, and there are arguments for either. The way that Lee has it currently, is consistent with the BluRay walk around (once you've flipped it to being the right way up). I'm not sure anything has been officially decided yet. And in the words of our glorious leader.