Chef

Or the Mythical LW one..... It's the best out there. heheheheh.

Yeah, any strap would not be screen accurate. Go with the magnets dude.

It would all depend on your GML buddy... The second set look pretty good, and I'd say are the better of the two options, but they will have to be modified. The zip and wrist strap would need to be taken off for a start, and then you'll have to do something about the knuckle ribbing (they only have three and the CRL states four). Then the suede patches will need adding to the fingers and the such like. But like I said, it would all depend on your GML. I know ours wouldn't clear either of them gloves without some serious modifications. But like I always say... if there is a fantastic screen accurate option out there already... Use it. I understand your concerns with their being only one supplier. But hey, there's a market. IF you can make gloves...

The whole shiny thing is still the 'latest' debate. There are still things being seen in the Blu-Ray that open new avenues of enquiry. I'm all for it, but it is also generally accepted that a cotton bund will be more than sufficient.

If those are your choices, I'd go with the heavy canvas for the pouches and the lighter one for the bund.

er... no.

The coined phrase is "less is more" I too have gone slightly more natural in weathering, with subtle shades of browns, with a hint of green and also using the screen used Black rattle can method. On the soft parts I used real mud and grass and splattered some used engine oil over it. Nothing more realistic than the real thing I say. I also aimed to try and replicate the screen used weathering as far as practicable in terms of placement. I just changed the colours to something that would more naturally sit there. Also, the weathering is so light, that in certain lights (especially on camera) it appears as though there is no weathering at all... yet in others, it's blatantly obvious. Here's my lid (in a slightly unfinished state) here's the screen used one. Here's the backplate in low light. and again in normal light..... See how it looks completely different. In pretty much 95% of the pictures of my suit, it appears as though there is no weathering at all. Yet up close, it's actually pretty scuffed up.

Yup.... Ask yourself this... Did you always see CLEAN Scouts in the films? No... in fact, you very rarely see a Clean scout (only in the Death Star scenes), so actually a dirty scout would be more canon (note only one N) than all those slack jawed pencil pushing scouts who just shine their backsides on the Death Star (you know who you are!) and don't do any real work! Oh... Yeah, my armour is dirty.

For me it's pretty obvious (but then I am already in this camp, so am a bit biased). Look at the crotch close up. The pouches show a definite heavy twill weave and are a bit dull, whereas the crotch bit is reflecting the light a little better (looks lighter) and you can't see any weave pattern at all. The way it creases and folds is also a little unnatural for Cotton fabric Also with the bottom picture, the way that the weathering has sat on the fabric does tend to lead (in my view) to a tight possibly man made fabric type. On cotton, stuff tends to soak in and you can see a definite bleed pattern, whereas on the bottom picture is just looks like it's sat on the top with minimal bleed. Interestingly the top picture is a good shot for the argument about the thermal det greeblie having the two small protrusions uppermost.

Ultimately, nothing needs to be replaced at all.... Just modified. And if your ultimate goal was to eventually go Lancer, then you'd be making these modifications anyway! So nothing lost. You need to get yourself a bit of suede material (say £20 tops...) and some black elastic, couple of quid at most. That'll sort the suit. The flak vest.. well, you could make that pretty cheaply (they are a nightmare to do... but a giggle once you've achieved it). A yard of black material will be enough. New greeblies, well they are £2.50 from DJ. So all in all, you're looking at around £30 and some time. Probably a lot less. So, as they say down under..... No drama.

Yes, the Suede riding patch, butt flap, thigh straps and a Flak vest are ALL NOW REQUIRED for ALL levels of clearance. The CRL was updated a while ago now to include these parts because they are clearly seen as part of the screen used costume. It's like a TK not wearing a belt. For those who were cleared prior to the updates, there is no requirement for them to update their own costumes (although in my opinion they should, because their costume is now sub-par) Chris, I'd go and have a word with your Scouts and tell them to reacquaint themselves with the CRL's. Please also note the updated Thermal Det greeblies too.

Sith Armour or bust buddy.

I've never has an issue with camera flash penetrating the lens. Even on relative close ups. Obviously, if they are right up close, practically on your nose, then you may get some bleed through. But I can't say it's been a problem with mine.

As above..

Bloomin' A1 as far as I am concerned bud.... But then I'm a convert already. It's the rest of the world that we've got to convince to come up to speed! heheheheh.

Good job there Patrick. A good tutorial is always a welcome thing.

Dude.... that's sweet. I shall be wanting your children.

I'm not sure that it's 'too shiny'. We have to remember, it's going to be difficult to replicate the actual lighting that is shown on the Blu-Ray. And this will always throw up some differences. What we can say is that there is a definite 'sheen' to the material, and it is definitely of a different texture to the pouches. Whilst the colour is very similar, I think the sheen and texture difference give that contrast between the two, that lead to the white/off white pouch debate. Thicker is always good. The material I found was a bit thin and difficult to work with. I never knew you got nylon from Beavers.... You live and learn!

Yeah. You should be able to get the catalysts separately. Just have a hunt for a decent supplier your side of the pond. I'm sure there must be some. I'm fortunate CFS is just around the corner from me, and Alex the chap behind the counter is a SW geek too, so I get a good discount!

If you want it to thicken up quicker, you should be able to find a thixotropic agent for the silicone. That thickens it up nice. Here is a link to the stuff I used for mine. Obviously you'll need to find something similar on your side of the pond. http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__RTV18_or_25_Thixotropic_Catalyst_562.html It'll still need 24 hours to cure but good for adding a thick layer onto a funny surface. To avoid bubbling you should paint a thin non-thixo'd layer over the thing you want to cast. This creates a bubble free detailed imprint of the item. When dry, you can then pour in rest to make the main body of your cast. But your bits look good. Casting of any sort does take some time.

Steel handguard on your blaster... now that's cool. If it's aluminium, I assume you know a magnet won't stick to it?

I'd go with Marcel's little idea. Get a circular rare earth magnet and stick it in the grip part of the blaster (in the round bit obviously), and then get another one and glue it on the inside of the holster (between the plastic and the boot). These babies will never come apart! Fortunately for me, the blaster and holster are from the same source, and as such, fit snugger than a bug in a rug. I can run round with mine and it still doesn't fall out.

Screen used helmet bolts are 22mm across. I have found that 10mm Coach bolts (sometimes called square cup bolts) have the same diameter head. But you do need to remove the domed crown.

Holy Mirrored lens Batman!!! Certainly a novel way of dealing with a Rubies lid.... hehehehehe. But a Pauldron... er.... no. I don't mind the weathering, it's probably just about on the limit for me personally. But it's ok.

excellent job there Barry. shaping up to be a mighty fine lid.