Chef

Yeah, I could do... The issue being I'd need to get a decent pull from one, then get the buck out... From that pull, I should be able to make a solid resin buck, which I can then slice up. The only real problem being that you would always get a small draw line where the two bits join up. No matter how tight you get the join. I put a tiny little scratch line on my bucks to show the trim lines when cutting, and these show up. It has to be possible... It's how the originals were made, and how John has made his. I just need to be a bit savvy about it I guess. But I can see why all the other chaps do it via a different method. I have done a couple of test pulls where the detail was a bit weak (didn't get the plastic hot enough, my own fault) and they released easy enough (comparatively).

Hi Heidi. The CRL states as following. Gloss white, semi gloss or lightly weathered. Licensed helmets are accetable with modifications- Remove manufacturer logos Replace stock lense. Replace inaccurate fish hook decal. Replace stock bolts and use correct flat bolt head or real 3M bolt. Fan-made helmets are acceptable as long as they remain true to shape of original screen accurate helmet. So whilst there is no actual 'words' to say that you should need to cut out the holes in the ears, the Level 2 status does say there should be 'No Mesh' in the ears... So whether by inference you choose to read this as there must be holes, but mesh is fine for level 1, or whether it's "simulated dark areas are fine and no holes are necessary".... is up for debate. I'd run it past your local GML and see what they say. For Lancer, you need to just have open holes. For what it's worth, for the small amount of time it will take to cut them out... I'd say cut them out and be done with. You need worry no more once it's done.

Cheers Tony... Now then... As you all know, I'm having a bit of a mare with the buck not releasing, and I'm pretty convinced that this is due to the rather deep indents on the back of my buck, grabbing the plastic. I'm altering this as we speak. I've had a search around and can't find this, so I'm throwing it open to all you chaps. I'm after a picture of the original production bucks.... I can find the one that shows the left hand side, from the front. But I'm specifically after a shot that show the indents on the rear right hand side of the bucket. So if anyone has one, or a link to one. I'm all eyes! Cheers Rob

http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showforum=103 seek and ye shall find!

The screen used belt attachment was a large patch of velcro, just like a TK belt. This is a relatively new development in the grand scheme of things and may have only been changed recently. From what I can gather you can still use the side buckle arrangement and pass Lancer. Here is a picture of the belt arrangement. As you can see, the belt definitely overlaps and there is NO buckle. You can also clearly see the little clips that go over the belt (not required for Lancer). The two little red circles I have highlighted are where we think that a couple of cable ties go through one section of the belt material (and the tube) attaching the Det to the belt. But we can't be 100% sure of this. The system works though, because this is exactly how I have my belt done.

Here's some pics of the main bucket that I pulled... As I mentioned, this little bad boy did NOT want to come off the buck, those back details are just too deep.... And unfortunately I cracked it pulling it off. But that gave me a perfect excuse to demonstrate the Plastic repair that I've spoken about in another thread. ABS/HIPS plastic shredded and melted in Acetone, forms a paste. I then applied this paste to the back of the crack (roughed the area with a bit of sandpaper first) making sure some of it squeezed out the crack. I left it overnight and hey presto... it's all nice and solid now. If you look in the picture of the back of the bucket above, you should be able to see the crack around the indent detail. here's a picture of the inside of the bucket with the repair paste in place. So this can be used as a filler, or repair putty. I shall be probably reducing the depth of those indents to make removal easier. I'm also probably going to adjust a few fit and finish areas to make it more defined.

I think this is the main point of contention here... (I'm only getting involved because there are two of my good chums in here potentially going head to head and don't want any fisticuffs.) The CRL has been up for discussion and based upon some 3D renders that are not in general circulation. Screen accuracy would in my opinion dictate that what is seen "on screen" takes precedent over any other source material. (I cite the MotM Scout exhibit in this... We use it as a reference, but because it has some omissions and we don't 'actually' know it was a screen used suit, then it will always take a back seat to what we see in the films.) There will always be discrepancies between the frames in CGI. The artists are lazy and don't add in the minute detail frame by frame that we costumers crave. To cite the 3D renders as source material, they should be used as evidence to substantiate the claim. If they can't be published for what ever reason, then are they suitable? Do the 3D renders substantiate or contradict the screen grabs? If they contradict the screen grabs, what conclusions can be drawn from them? Does the CRL have to be rigid? I cite the two views... Tan or Grey... I have put in something in between. Could the CRL be put to say Tan/Grey. Will the possible ambiguity of this cause issue? (I know on my Snow Scout they said tan because the source drawings made it look a little tan coloured, but in reality Tan actually looked gash, so I changed it to a more suitable one and everyone agreed it was much better in the flesh). The issue of white/off white. (don't get me started on Scout bund / pouch combinations...) is one that has been around for ages... Not in this sense, but the similar argument remains. If something is weathered... when does it cease be to white and go to off white. Just sling some dirt in it. White becomes a bit more.... well..... tan coloured. So whilst Tony is probably a little late at the altar to stop the marriage.... very remiss of him I'm sure he will agree.... Is it too late to have that marriage annulled? This is the point of DISCUSSION. my view is to not see it as "This is my view and I'm sticking to it!", but "what is the other persons view and how can I modify that?"

Now I'm not planning on getting involved in the CRL debate, because the Kashyyk is not my kind of costume. But camouflage interests me.. I can agree that multicam is a hard edged camo pattern and the reference pics don't seem to show something that is a little more blended. ATACS would indeed fit the bill. It is a sand base, with a hint of green. http://www.greyops.net/2009/11/new-camo-pattern-tacs.html As for the patch.... How about OATMEAL... It's not tan, and it's not grey! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blackout-Faux-Suede-Curtain-Lining-Fabric-13-colours-/160918792220?pt=UK_Crafts_Fabric&var=&hash=item257781e81c You might need to scroll to the Oatmeal option. I use it on my SnowScout and it's a real good colour. It's not 'orangey' like a Tan, and it's not grey.... it's sort of an in between.

Well... I'm having a bit of frustration at the moment. I can pull the faceplate and shroud, fine. I'm really happy with the pulls and the detailing. But the main bucket.. That's another story. I can get it to pull the detail, really beautifully. But then I can't get it to release from the buck. Basically the detail on the back of the lid is stopping that bit of the lid coming off the buck. So basically, I need to make the detailing less defined on the back, which obviously I'm not happy about. I think I can make it so it's not as deep, but still have some good crisp detailing. I'm going to have a peek at the screen used buckets and the production bucks too to see how they went about it. I'll see if I can get some pictures up of what I've got so far.

oooooh.... seems like I'm out of the Official Picture Gang!!! hehehehe. I just get the "sorry this person moved or deleted the image" bit on all of them. Anyone else getting the same, or have I just been annoying far too many people this week?

Check your links dude!!

In addition to what Chex has said. 1: I'd say the Chevron on your bund is far too severe. It should be a mild curve. At the moment, yours seem to disappear under your belt. (oops, just seen Chex has pointed that out too..) 2: Your flak vest sleeves are a little too long. They should sit pretty much at the bottom of your shoulder bells and not cover over your bicep armour. 3: Your drop box straps on the rear of your belt should sit on the inside of the belt and not the outside. Positioning is good, but if you're altering them, I'd move them in about an inch or two for the perfect look.

Yeah, I just brush paint the inside of the ears black, so when you look at it from the front you can't see anything on the inside. As for fumes... Suck 'em up!

You know it's funny... I have two pairs of these gloves both in Large (no I'm not selling a pair.... not until the price reaches $1Million.. heheheh). One set is very padded and worked superbly at being proper motorcycling gloves.... The other pair is a lot thinner and I predominantly use these for trooping. Both bought new from SA but about a year apart. Weird but true.

I leave them in too.... But I never ever do them up when I'm wearing mine, so why I leave them in there is beyond me! You can always leave them untied if it's too tight, you but you can't tie them up when it's too loose if you don't have them!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Men-s-Leather-Suede-Desert-Boot-Walking-Hiking-Trainer-Tan-Size-7-to-11-/120986034165?pt=UK_Men_s_Shoes&var=&hash=item1c2b545ff5 there you go buddy.

glad to be of service.

you don't really need any holes on the top.... As long as the tank is firmly glued to this bracket it'll be good. The Greeblie on the top of the tank will cover up any random holes you may have made. Please ignore the fact that this is on my Snow Scout. Depending on your greeblie, there is normally a faux rivet cast into it (effectively behind the red stripe on this one). So you don't need to worry about a rivet detail on that bit. On the screen used tanks, this was a real rivet, going through the greeblie and into the bracket.

Does this help at all Heidi? glue to top of the hump to the bracket, stick the bottom rivet through the bottom of the tank, and then through the back-plate. Job done!

I feel sorry for you chaps... Decent boots over here are like 10 a penny.... Yet I went on Ebay (the US one) and couldn't find any.... So much for the Land of Plenty!

I was going to put 'pornography' too..... but thought that might be a step too far.

Yeah, there's nothing beyond the average set of tools that you'll need. scissors (normal and the lexan curved type... the latter for cutting plastic). Sticky tape, sand paper, Pencil (for marking), hot glue gun, E6000 glue, rivet gun, bits of velcro, pop snaps (if you feel the need), bits of fabric, webbing.... general odds and sods..... coffee...

Bangin' dude.

It would definitely work... the main issue I can see is that the sole has a light and a dark section which would need to be painted through if you plan on being that anal about your costume. This would be an issue if you're planning on going Lancer. If you're not, this should be fine for basic clearance.

Neil... If it ain't broke... Don't fix it! Works fine for mine!