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But did they?? Considering NO-ONE has as yet attempted to clear any of the other derivatives, there currently is no requirement to make the distinction. And when someone does... it can be simply classified by it's source origin. "Storm Commando - WEG" for example, much in the same vein as "Stormtrooper - ANH stunt". Yeah, we all know the differences. None more so than the chaps over at Spec Ops. But by and large, the most consistent is base Scout derivative. But as with all "EU" stuff, there will always be some artistic differences. It happens even within the same artist base, but they are essentially the same thing. But then that's not my argument. They have thus far chosen a Rebel colloquialism as the main way to describe them. Considering it's the 501st, which as far as I am aware is an Imperial unit, you'd have thought they would have used the Imperial designation in the first instance. Which is Storm Commando. Their choice is, in my opinion, just a sloppy follow on from the adoption of the "shadow" prefix for any troop choice that happens to be an all black variant of an existing costume. Maybe we should have just called them all "Brian" (only the UKG guys will get this.... sorry).

They are both the same. Technically, the term 'shadow scout' is a Rebel coined phrase for them. The Imperial designation is a "Storm Commando". We know this quite simply because in the various comics and source material, General Weir is described as a Storm Commando, and he wears the same armour as the scout. As does his troops in the same sequence. Obviously between the comics, the WEG drawings and some other artist impressions, there are a number of differences, which has lead to some confusion. The 501st chose to use the two different designations to describe the different variants. Incorrectly in my opinion. I've got you over on Spec Ops bud.

It would ultimately rest with the decision of your local GML to be fair Joe. I would hazard a guess that you'll be fine with them as they are, but the final say so will be down to them.

Don't get me started on the Storm Commando/ Shadow Scout argument! I'm sure we'll see you straight over on the Spec Ops board (Jim and I are over there), but feel free to ask here too. I monitor both sections, so just carpet bomb them... I should notice. Welcome aboard.

Eeeek... what you sewing with it... Buffalo Hide?? My singer 427 was my mothers. She was a professional seamstress and this was her home machine. It was made in 1967 and is still going strong, even with my abuse. I think if you go with Singer, Brother, Pfaff or similar, you should be fine. Avoid cheap Chinese tat. I've seen plenty of those break.

A singer machine should be fine for both materials. If you struggle with the vinyl, get yourself a 'walking foot' attachment.

I think what most people seem to be overlooking is that the belt sits much higher than you might think. If you look at the top of the belt, it's practically in line with his elbow. This keeps the pouches relatively small and the main bund quite short. I've always said the cod section is very wide, and I've made most of mine to about 10" wide at the top. Obviously, if you make the main bund part so it can have that gap over the belt, then it's likely to be at least a couple of inches shorter than if you make your bund so the belt can attach to it.

It's the 1/12th scale Ferrari 312t4 Just looked through some email history.

Yup, just let me know Graeme and I'll post some to you.

The amp system and the PMR are located in the pouches, with 3.5mm jack connectors to the helmet so I can remove it without having to unhitch all the electronics. Yes, it's a magnetic reed switch. The operating magnet is inside the index finger in my glove, so I just touch it to the outside of my helmet to switch between the two comm systems. The switch is merely a feed activator, with all the techno-wizardry in a small junction box which sits in a pouch. There is also a LED in the helmet to let you know when you're transmitting on the PMR.

I do try.

I've got a ROMFx unit in mine, rigged in to a custom mic and earphone that is plugged in to my PMR (personal mobile radio) that is switchable via a magnetic switch in the helmet, so I can talk between amplified speech to members of the public, and covert communications on the PMR to others on the same channel.

It's like Fight Club, Mark...

Here's my greeblie, with the correct kit part used in the middle. And here's the centre part on it's own for clarity.

They're nice... But I don't think they'd get Lancer, not without a lot of work. The two tone coloured sole would need to be painted a single colour, the stitch detail around the entire sole would need to be obscured (which is essentially what the toe strip is there for) as well as the sole being notched. I think getting rid of the stitching around the heel section of the boot would be practically impossible. With the originals being constructed by adding vinyl/leather OVER an existing boot, making one from scratch essentially negates all of the features that make it stand out as much as it does. The step around the sole, as part of their construction just doesn't exist. When you cover a boot that has this, it is obscured or masked for the most part. Just my opinion. I think it's nice that they're made of real leather and the workmanship does look very good. It's just the fundamentals of a boot from scratch don't belie the same construction idiosyncrasies as COVERING an existing boot.

For the greeblie... http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=8789&hl=+thermal%20+detonator&st=20 There are screen caps that show it either way. Annoying no!

It's being discussed Mickey... No doubt Marcel will post up the recommendations shortly.

Phil, I usually use a proportion of 12"x9" on my butt flaps. Obviously Jo is a bit narrower than I, so just sort of scale accordingly. It should end just below the bum-line. The top of the Thigh elastics are level with the crotch. Bad picture, as the butt flap is almost impossible to see.

No.... it's literally the warm water bath. Then you can use an automotive base coat. The film needs a special activator (which you can buy quite readily), which is about the only specialist bit of kit you need. Then a top coat laquer. That's it in a nutshell. The custom car world has been using this for a while. Everything dipped in carbon fibre!

The process is like a halfway house between wrapping and paint. It has the finish of a painted surface, and is indeed prepared and finished in a very similar fashion using a base coat and a top laquer, but the process of application is like a wrap where it's applied in one 'dip'. The final application colour can be varied by altering the base coat colour. This is the process I am most likely to be using on my forest trooper when I can source the correct print.

the 1/8th is likely to refer to the diameter of the rivet. (I use 4mm in metric) For length... I'd suggest somewhere near 1/2" or 10-12mm in metric. Backing washers are the same diameter as the rivet head. The Rivet will go through the plastic then through the strap (or what ever you're putting it into ) and then you put the backing washer on. This is basically to stop the end of the rivet pulling through what ever you've just put it through.

Morning Erin... Looking good. I'd say do something to stop your pouches twisting diagonally. Other than that. Make your pictures bigger. My eyes aren't what they used to be!

Here's the inner bit. I've got this integrated into my greeblie already.

It's tabs upwards.... In truth, the screen shots seem to show both orientations, but Most of us are going with 'Tabs Up' To remove... E6000 is quite flexible, but tough. So you'll need to get a sharp blade and carefully run it under the greeblie. It'll probably take a while to get under all of it. Then you should be able to prise it off.

And then pass them to me!!