Chef

Nice tutorial there bud.

Like Christian says... If it's anything like the welding shields that I use, you need to hold them in place whilst you blob some hot glue in the nose section. Press it into shape in the helmet and glue in the nose section. Hold it there until the glue has completely dried. You will convulse in agony as your finger/thumb get severe cramps whilst the glue dries, but that's the price you pay. When that first bit is dry and it's holding it's shape, whack some more glue around the rest of it to complete the job.

If you have the option, I would shorten in just a touch. Basically you want it to sit practically level with the bottoms of your shoulder bells, or about 10-15cm below. Riding patch... Sewn, it's tricky. If you have a special jeans type machine you can do it quite simply. But if your machine is a regular one, then it's best to split the sides of the flight suit (down the outer seams of the legs) which gains access to the crotch area allowing you to sew the patch in place. Then you need to sew up the seams again and take in any bagginess that your suit has. They're a pain... I don't like doing them myself, but sewing the suede in is the only sure fire way.

Wear it proud... Don't be a chair jockey.

Speak to Mike, Scott. He's a top fellow, and should be able to sort you out.

If you must... I'll put double on the van!

I'm not entirely sure that the barcode is too high. Check out the original. http://starwarshelmets.com/star_wars_helmets_review_original_jedi_biker_scout_trooper_helmet.htm Yes, I think the barcode decals may well be a little too long, and the indents on the back of the MLC lid a fraction too low, giving the height mis-match, but I think the bottoms of his barcode decals are in the right place. If he puts them much lower, they're going to be going 'under' the bulge, and that, apart from being in the wrong place, would be a nightmare to get right.

I'll bung some in the van.

maybe... You at MEM?? I've got a stack here.

What the man said!!

righty... I use Mike's decals. Best way I've found to do it. Line up the decal in the correct place (you're alignment sounds OK). Then put then entire decal on the lid, by running your finger right down the middle (horizontally) of all the stripes. Leaving the top and bottoms of the stripes to not stick to the lid. This gets them all in the right place. Now you need to smooth up and down outwards from the centre where you've already stuck it. I do the ends first, then the middle and then alternate from ends to middle to make sure they space evenly. The backing paper will crease between the stripes, but that's a good thing, because you don't want the stripes to crease and the backing paper be OK. Hope that makes sense.

looks fine, when it's all strapped in place.

It's a funny topic this one... And I'll say it now... LESS IS MORE! Right, with that out of the way. The scout weathering is actually pretty subtle, and whilst heavier than some might think it doesn't really appear to be heavy like the sandies. I do think that some thought has gone in to it though. With the black spray being confined to the areas where oil and grease would accumulate from the bikes and stuff, on the front of the bund and pouches, the helmet and a few spots on the backplates and shoulders etc... But there are also earthy tones on places such as the knees and boots, as you would expect. If you look at the helmet, you'll see what I mean. It's mainly oily splats and carbon scorning type weathering here. But then look at the knee. Definite browns and 'muck' type weathering here. So I do think that it is a little more 'thought out' than would at first appear. So like Marcel has said, try to consider what would occur in real life. I flicked oil spots (from some old sump oil and a stiff brush) up the front of mine, and wore my boots whilst doing the gardening to get them with that natural green/brown staining. Took some crushed up leaves and rubbed them in the creases of my arm and knee armour along with a ragging with a dirty cloth. As well as a light spraying with the black spray paint. In pictures, you'd think my armour is not weathered at all... but it's definitely there and looks pretty grubby in the flesh.

Good find. If you've found one that's spot on the money, then really I'd just get that one. If you were really struggling, I'd have said I doubt people will pull you apart for 2mm undersize.

I use a pop stuff and patch of velcro on mine. I then have the corresponding bit on my flak vest and flight suit to hold it all in place.

Yup... you want the top of it covered by your bund, and the bottom of it to be level with the bottom of your butt cheeks. If that makes sense.

Morning Kathy. I think it's one of those bits of the costume that's never been fully nailed down, hence why it's not stated in the Specs. I'm loving the reference shots, very comprehensive. Just what I like in a detailed point of view. You may be right in so far the strap width isn't probably as wide as people think. I still think it is probably pretty wide though, from your 1st pic, and the 3rd would suggest the same (although it looks like it's rolled a little on it's bottom edge). But in comparison to the chest/back sides, it does appear similar, or smaller. As for the attachments. From your pictures I would hazard a guess that the elastic (and probably the top of the bell) had a press stud or other fixing behind the armour plate itself. Hence why the elastic seems to head for the centre of the plate. Likewise at the top, it would explain why the top of the shoulder bell doesn't pull in towards the shoulder bridge join all the time, but seems to consistently follow the line of the upper arm. A good point... Well made! *** that's how to construct an argument. ***

was that discussion a year ago... blimey, doesn't time fly!

Loosening them is very difficult without adding in a stack of extra stitch lines (which isn't right). If you've had it made to your sizes, and it's not correct, I suggest you speak to who ever made it and see what they can do.

That's the fella...

You set 'em up... I'll knock 'em down!

But not everyone has your weekend fetish Jim... heheheheh.

My personal opinion is that they are probably a bit too dark still I'm sure they'll pass 501st clearance no problem.

4mm aluminium pop rivets will do the job. I get ones that are 10mm long, and the associated washers. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300832250606?var=600073279717&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

coming along nicely... size looks good.