Chef

Yeah, the white one. If you take the rivets out, put some tape behind the holes to seal them, then fill the outside with a bit of bi-carbonate of soda (baking powder), then drop a small amount of superglue onto the Bi-Carb. It'll fizz and go rock solid. It should also be white.... Give it a quick rub over, and then add a small patch of weathering over the area. Job done.

Yeah, looks fine to me for standard clearance. Putting on my ultra-picky head... I'd do the cuts in the boot soles and paint the bases so they are all one single colour. The crotch part of the bund could do with being a little wider at the top edge, it's just a little narrow for my tastes. Try and hide the rivet securing the top of your tank. The bicep and forearm armour should sit more on the outside of the arms, rather than round the back. The flak vest sleeves could do with just pulling up about 1" so they only just poke out the bottom of the shoulder bell. I'd change the bolts on your lid to some better sizes 3M ones. The Brow stripes seem a bit on the big side. But that is me being very critical. None of the above should stop your basic clearance, it's a jolly good job and fits you well. For Lancer.... I'd be looking at the above.

There will be another run.... I just need to get this one all finished up and then I'll post another list.

Here we go.... Scroll down to near the bottom. That helmet was the one who got whacked by Leia http://www.starwarshelmets.com/real_Biker_Scouts.htm knew I'd seen it somewhere.

Which ever way you do it... KNEES FIRST! There's nothing worse than getting all your gear on, and realising you've left the knees off, and you then can't do anything but take it all off again so you can bend over to put the knees on!

Somewhere it is yes... It was also on the card front to some of the toys as I recall. I'd need to have a dig about.

Here's a picture of my lid (all those years ago when I put it together...). In certain pictures it doesn't look as heavy as this, and in person it looks a little heavier. I think that is the key. If it you can't see the weathering to any great effect in general photos, but it's noticeable in person, then you've about got it spot on. Less is more...

Or to save you buying any more, the 1st (on the left) clip would be the most suitable, you'll just need to cut out the cross bar section.

Really, it's only the legs and the arms that need tailoring because the rest is covered over by the cummerbund and the flak vest. It wants to be comfortable, but not tight like some form of wetsuit, and it also needs to fitted, and not baggy like CoCo the Clown's trousers! Just give yourself a couple of inches breathing room all round and you'll be fine. Just make sure you have full movement range in it. So crouch down whilst swinging your arms in circles whilst in it. If anything tears... it needs to be a bit bigger.

Just remember if you're planning on going Lancer, you'll need to add REAL SUEDE for the patches/butt flap.

Welcome Rob.. (good name by the way). From Rob. I'll catch you on the Garrison boards.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTRUCT-EMA-PLASTIC-WELD-Cement-57ml-Polystyrene-Butyrate-ABS-Perspex-Acrylic-/131269946964?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 That's what I use, and it's ACE!

That's a real downer for all you chaps that have ordered one. I do find it quite amazing that they didn't work out that one of the main reasons the lid can open up is because the plastic is flexible! The slight give in the plastic accounts for any inaccuracies in the shape of the bucket. Unless the bolts are 100% aligned, (which is unlikely on a screen used plastic helmet) then the fibreglass isn't flexible enough to allow it all to open. I had this issue on my GRP Buckets. And the problem being, as soon as you go to work correcting these issues, you end up deviating from 'a screen used shape'. It'll be interesting to see how they get around this.

less is more... less is more.

I shall try and migrate this into the HELMET COMPARISON Thread Seems like the most logical place for it.

That's a beauty... Just leave it as it is!

sweeeeeet. Probably took less time than sticking poppers in too!

Exactly how high is that KS lid?? I would make an educated guess that the RS lid is going to be about 235mm high (measured from the join where the faceplate meets the main helmet, straight upwards). Hopefully I'll be able to confirm that for certain.

well, I would hazard a guess that the RS one is likely to be the same size as mine. I can find out more as I'll be seeing the RS boys in about 2 weeks.

It happens on all 'boiler' type suits. Because they are effectively an 'over suit', they are naturally big. The fastest and simplest way to combat it is to turn the suit inside out. Mark down the sleeves where it's 'fitted but comfortable' then get a sewing machine and run it down this new line creating a new tighter seam line. Hem it off, turn it back the right way round and hey presto... All sorted.

GRP (Fibreglass) helmets are fine. Yeah, they're a bit heavier than an ABS one, but you should be able to wear one all day without any undue stress. My own personal one (which is #1) was made ultra thick and is probably twice as heavy as it need be and I can wear that all day quite comfortably. As for the finish... Depends on how they've painted it. Mine has a white Gel-Coat finish and is in effect 'unpainted'. The white finish is actually part of the lamination process. It's as white now as the day it was finished. So really that question is all dependant on how they finalised their process.

It's still a little up for debate to be fair. The standard material that is used is cotton twill/drill. Although looking closely at some of the pictures, I am of the opinion that it has a certain sheen to it. What it is exactly I can't say. A sort of rayon/nylon type material. It's certainly a different material to that used for the pouches. Which does appear to be a cotton based material. As long as the 'look' is right. I say go with what ever works for you.

I wouldn't pass it myself. Certainly not for Lancer. To be honest, I can't see how this method makes it any more or less complicated than doing it the screen accurate way... (but to be fair... I've never tried it your way!).

done. I'll get a better one made up at some point.

I believe they are the bolt covers yes... I've used E6000 no problems.