Chef

Yeah, apply along the seam, sand across it.

http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10737 BSN is your friend! Granted it's not fully complete, but if everyone who has the various helmets just fills it with the sizes....

My advice with the filler (Bondo). Put it on in thin passes, rather than trying to fill the whole area in one go. This way you can just knock off the hight spots with a block and paper and then just a thin skim of filler back in the low spots.

No fans for me either.... Washing up liquid on a cloth. wipe a bit on, then gently buff it off. Stops the fog.

It is a bit of a balancing act. The essence of one, impacting on all the others. But looking at the pictures above, you can see that the chest armour, the bund and the cod sections are all roughly 1/3rd of the total distance between the nape of the neck and the bottom of the crotch (not including the belt). So for example.... I'm tall at 6'1". My nape to crotch is 27". The belt is 3" high, so that leaves 24", divide that by 3 and that's 8", so there will be 'roughly' an 8" gap between my chest plate and the belt line for the pouches to span. The scale for my pouches looks best at 7" high x 6" wide, so with a little bit of a drop from the bottom of the chest plate and nudging the belt up by about 1/2" I can cover the gap entirely. Here's how mine looks.

Pin striping on the tank, a good width is 3mm (that's what I use), or what ever that equates to in old fashioned Imperial measurements. The cloth bridges... Well, we don't specify a width on those because it will differ from trooper to trooper depending on their size and the gap between the ends of their chest/back armour plates. Ideally it want's to be as small as possible, say about 1"-1.5", but if you're a big chap and there's a 2.5" gap between the chest and backs over the shoulders, then it will need to span that gap. If you can get the chest and back plates to practically touch, then make it small, and keep it tight around the armour.

Maybe they subsequently filled them in on the buck when they realised that having those extra holes so close to the seam line makes getting the pulls off the buck an absolute cowbag. The grab factor of those lower holes gets exponentially worse the lower down you go (closer to the seam). I know from bitter experience! Either way... Some of the screen used lids have 8, 8 (1x large), 9, some have 7. They're all as equally screen accurate.

Well.... not technically Simon. The scale of the pouches for the correct look is the determining factor for all the other parts. Once you have the correct scale for the pouches, you can then work out where the bottom of the pouches sit. This then gives you the 'belt line'. Once you have the belt line, you can work out your cummerbund and then the crotch flap parts. If you make that flap too small, and have the torso of the bund too long (sitting more down on your hips), you'll end up with the belt too low and consequently very long and thin pouches, which won't look right and thus throw off the entire thing. The drop boxes sit more on your hips than the belt does. Essentially they are all intrinsically linked. If you look at this picture here, you'll notice that the belt sits approximately half way between the bottom of the chest plate and the bottom of your crotch, and that the pouches span the distance between the bottom of the chest and the top of the belt.

I think it just happens because I think that '8th' indent is so close to the centre seam that it's very easy to just fill it in when making the helmet.

At 9" I would suggest you have your belt placed far too low. The belt sits more on your navel line rather than down on your hips. I'm 6'1" and my gap is still only 7"

The CRL allows for between 0-6. Although for total screen accuracy, only 1,4 or 6 were ever seen on screen.

I believe this was just a fan based 'interpretation'. Whilst it's not thoroughly certain, I am of the understanding that the E-11s is more akin to a scoped DLT-19 (Real world MG34). Obviously you're free to try and make what you want, but it may or may not be clearable for 'canon' troops.

Well, if you can return it for the correct size, that's always the first way to go. But if you can't... You can unpick the seams that are around the waist band and insert an elliptical shaped panel of stretch fabric such as lycra across the back/kidney area. This will allow the suit to 'stretch' when you bend down.

Nah... you're one of the easier ones! heheheheh.

Let's not beat the guy up.... It happens Matt. The KS kit has always needed some tweaking and the devil is in the detail. But out of the crux of what you've said, it appears as though the tweaks are 'relatively' minor and should be easy enough to sort. Obviously that doesn't detract from your annoyance at getting something less than you were expecting, but we are all here to help. Fall back on those who are willing to give you a leg up. You're not on your own.

They sound like they need a 'lackey'.

Belt ones are steel coloured. No idea what you mean there bud... Here's direct from the CRL (with the latter part from the Lancer Standards) regarding the belt. Here is a picture of the belt, showing the ONLY rivets that are used on it. (ignore the red circles, that was to illustrate something else). Two (on on each side), at the back end of the plastic belt, securing it to the nylon strap. Hope this helps

Ideally it's about an inch - inch and a half... But it ultimately depends on the gap that you have between your chest/back plates. If you can practically join the two, then keep it small. If they sit far apart, then the bridge needs to cover the gap. There's no hard and fast rule.

I used a satin on mine.

Morning Graeme. I didn't get anything through (it is possible it went straight into a junk box and I missed picking it up), although most of the redirected mails are set for 'allowed'. So don't quite know what happened there... Sorry about that. Just drop me a PM here.

Am I one of the only people in the world that think it's 'not cricket' to make someone pay all their cash up front and then make then wait over a year to get their items?? What else is there that you can purchase that such a situation is the norm?? Deposit yes... Full payment??? And likewise, if you are going to make them pay, then you should make sure you keep to your own set deadline. If you can't keep to that deadline, change it and make sure your customers know. It's not for them to keep chasing you about it. They've paid top dollar... They should get top dollar service. Being busy, working on other things, personal drama.... It doesn't matter. A Customer is only interested in one product... Theirs!

If its the headband on a Speedglas 9000 then it's likely to be closer to 25mm (maybe even larger).

You'll be fine... They are hot, no matter what you do really. But you do get used to it quite quickly. Plenty of water, plenty of breaks. Listen to your body it WILL tell you when you're due for a time out. Know the signs. When you think "sh!t man... I'm boiling!" That's a good indicator that you need to go in, grab a litre of water and take a breather! If you want something that is truly unbearable to wear.... Get yourself inside an Alien!

You don't... It's either hot or damned hot. Don't wear any underpants and thin socks. That's about it. Face the wind...

S'ok... I'm hardly going to get in a twist about it.