Aradun

Looking forward to you suiting up and seeing it all together!

LOL. I can tell you right now Mark that there was more than a few times when working on my Scout drove me to drink. I’m sure I’m not alone [emoji6].

Did the magnets have holes in them so that could rivet them? If so, do you recall where you got them? I was thinking of perhaps stitching them into the suit with a patch of fabric.

Congrats Jens! Well done and being the first is a great distinction. Get that level two cert and set the bar for any of your Danish troopers that follow in your footsteps [emoji6].

Congratulations! Awesome news!

I think you weathering is spot on Christina. Don’t be surprised to see your WIP being the benchmark for other Mandalorian Scouts. It’s already being referenced and referred to in many other builds. Fantastic work!

Chris, great work there! I think it looks good. I really like how the darker spots actually look like rust spots. Don’t know if that was what you were going for, but it’s a cool effect none the less. It’s my understanding that the CRL will call for moderate to heavy weathering so I think you could stand to go a little heavier if you want, but I’d wait to hear from an armorer on that to be sure. Keep up the great work. Your build is looking awesome.

Is it possible that there is no difference and that the lip seen on the right attachment is also present on the left, but is rotated to the bottom giving it the illusion that it is flat. Looking closely at the left side below there appears to be a return edge but the angle doesn’t show that it’s raised like it is on the right, but it could be. Just my idle musings.

Hey Chris, there’s a couple of places that sell the clips for the TD, Amazon being one. Pretty reasonable price point too. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MR3CQCC/?coliid=I9C80S7S166H1&colid=17ZNF8WW4QACN&psc=1 Hope it helps.

Where did you get it from and can you return it? If it’s a custom suit with all the fixings then you can list it for sale in the trade thread. You may need to consider purchasing overalls like Red Kap from Amazon. They offer them in a regular size as well as a long version, which sounds like something that would offer you a better fit. Only thing is you’ll need to mod the suit yourself, but there’s plenty of tutorials on how and you can expect a ton of help from fellow Pathfinders if your nervous about going that route.

You’re the man Pete! Thanks for the offer. My wife actually had 5/8 mags that she uses for crafting, but they’re about 3/16” thick. However I don’t care for the way it looks, as together the two create a 3/8” gap between the bucket and faceplate, which is really noticeable in my eyes. So I think I’m going to let sleeping dogs lie on this one until I can think of some alternative.

[mention]iceknyght [/mention] Jason your assessment was spot on. So after kitting up and taking photos for my lancer submission for about an hour I quickly noticed how the Velcro was actually preventing the face plate from closing all the way. The hook would snag the loop as soon as it came in contact with it just catching the edge of the loop. I was driving myself nuts. So I removed it from the one side that was causing the most problems and plan to remove the other side as well. My thought now is to glue a magnet to the bucket just behind the chin strap and place another magnet where the hook was on my faceplate. That should eliminate the pull on the chin strap that the Velcro was causing while also allowing the faceplate to close properly. I just gotta pick up the magnets.

Any chance this can get pinned so it’s easy to find and reference when you’re done? Phenomenal work as usual.

It’s flexible and very thin. Think along the lines of something a tad thicker than card stock, so it flexes naturally. As you can see from the photos above it is merely tacked in place with hot glue along the entire outer left and right side of the lens with a small tack spot at the top and bottom of the lens where the bridge of the nose would be. You don’t want to tack the entire lens flush against the face plate for two reasons: 1) even though the lens is flexible, forcing it to mount flush will place the lens under too much stress and while I don’t think it will be enough stress to crack the lens, the stress will make it very difficult for glue to hold it in place. 2) the fact that it doesn’t sit flush is a benefit as it allows a little air circulation around the lens, which helps reduce potential fogging issues, plus given how hot it gets under that bucket you want as much circulation as you can get.

Name: Dennis M. Mueller TKID: 60446 Garrison: Garrison Carida Armor: RS Propmasters Helmet: RS Propmasters Red Label Cummerbund: Self Made Cod Piece: Self Made Flak Jacket: Self Made Undersuit: Red Kap, Modified by Self Boots: Self Made using Cheesewhoopy Tutorial w/ Kingshow 1366 Water Resistant Boots as base Gloves: Wampa Wear Holdout Blaster: Darth Voorhees Props TD: RS Propmasters, modified by Self Forum WIP: Front: Front Arms Up: Left Side: Left Side Arms Up: Back: Back Side Arms Up: Right Side: Right Side Arms Up: Bucket Off: Action Shot: Helmet Lancer Verification: - Screen Accurate Snout Greeblie. - Snout recess is painted black. Lancer Verification: - No mesh material mounted in ears. - Area behind ears inside helmet is blacked out. Lancer Verification: - Helmet Bolts are Gray 3M w/concave centers, 22mm dia. Balaclava Flight Suit Front: Back: Lancer Verification: - Undersuit tailored to fit (see submission poses) Lancer Verification: - Elastic thigh straps 2” wide. - Thigh patches are real suede. Lancer Verification: - Butt patch is real suede, w/ no visible external stitching. Shoulder Armor Lancer Verification: - Bottom Corners are rounded. - Should bells affixed to shoulder joins with black zip ties. Lancer Verification: - Shoulder Armor secured around bicep with 1/2” black elastic strap. Upper Arm Armor (Bicep) Lancer Verification: - Film accurate T-Bit Greeblie with circle detail facing forward on each arm (see submission poses). - Armor secured around arm with 2” black elastic strap. Forearm Armor Lancer Verification: - Armor is secured around arm with 1” black elastic strap. Gloves Lancer Verification: - Fits wearer snugly with no flare (see submission poses). Flak Vest Front: Flak Vest Back: Lancer Verification: - Vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. - Sleeves do not flare under shoulder bells and extend no more than 1.5” past bottom edge of shoulder bell. (See submission poses). Chest Armor Lancer Verification: - Shoulder bridge is 1” wide white cotton elastic and covers the join betw. the front and back of the armor. Back Armor Lancer Verification: - Back and Tank armor are two separate parts. - 6 rank stripes. - Screen accurate tank topper greeblie separate from tank itself, secured with a single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Lancer Verification: - Tank has properly placed pin striping with a single bottom attachment rivet. Lancer Verification: - Optional: ½” elastic stap is anchored to the top and bottom tank rivets and loops around the inside back of the armor. Additional: Cummerbund Lancer Verification: - Cummberbund made from smooth white cotton sateen fabric, with no visible external stitching, and separate from the undersuit and vest. Lancer Verification: - CB ribs are 1” wide. Additional: Pouches Lancer Verification: - Pouches are made from white duck cloth and measure 6”H, 5”W, 2”D. - Bottom edge of the pouch flap is between 2” and 2.5” wide. Lancer Verification: - Pouches have an attachment tab that must be at least 2”H (tabs here are 2.75”)to attach to the CB. - Pouch attachment tab is same width as the pouch = 5” Lancer Verification: - Pouches are affixed to CB via the tabs and sit 1” from outermost CB rib on each side. Codpiece Lancer Verification: - Made from same fabric as CB. - Elastic strap is 2” - Codpiece and sewn curve conforms to shape in CRL and Costume Books. - Codpiece does not bunch around groin area (see submission poses). - Codpiece attaches to the Flak Vest via hook & loop. Belt Lancer Verification: - Belt is worn on the waist and not the hips (see submission poses). - Belt is one piece construction. Lancer Verification: - Belt has 2” nylon webbing attached to the belt in the back with one silver rivet on each side. Lancer Verification: - Dropbox straps are 1.5” and made of white cotton webbing. - Parachute buckles are non functional with the straps looped behind them. Thermal Detonator Lancer Verification: - TD endcaps are concave - TD has visible black clips attaching it to the belt. - TD tube is light gray. Knee Armor Lancer Verification: Lower strap is ¾” wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. Lancer Verification: - Upper strap is ½” wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor. Rivets are silver in color. Boots Left Outside: Right Inside: Lancer Verification: - Soles of boots are a single color with no visible stitching, and have slots cut in them as seen in the film. Additional: Holster: Lancer Verification: - Attached with 4 silver rivets. Lancer Verification: - Vents on holster are cut out. Optional Accessories: Hold-out Blaster Lancer Verification: - Lens dics are cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. - No decaled cross-hairs present Lancer Verification: - Barrel is solid (i.e., not drilled). I’m pretty sure I’ve got everything covered, but if I’m missing anything just let me know. I’m certain I’ll have a photo of it somewhere [emoji6]. Thanks Team!

Nice work Phil. It looks really good.

They do look good! $220 for the boots and a set of gloves is a decent price point given that a pair of Wampa’s would set you back $60 and boots average $150 or more. Gio’s site does state that the price is an intro price and that it will go up, so if you’re on the fence or waiting for feedback from other Pathfinders keep that in mind.

Thanks Jason. Great tip! I’ll give that a shot to dial in the sleeves. As to the Velcro in the helmet, that thought did cross my mind about stretching the elastic. So I’ll need to be careful opening the lid like you said. I too was thinking about using rare earth magnets but will feel the Velcro out first and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice!

You da Man Corey! Thanks for confirming. I’ll get on this right away and repost some photos. Using the CRL and screen shot I have a clear idea of what to aim for regarding the butt flap.

I want to redo my kit up photos to address some minor dressing issues for my lancer app, but need a break in the weather to get outside for photos. In the meantime, [mention]Chopper [/mention] would you be so kind as to look at the following two photos from my basic submission and provide me with some feedback? Any other armorers or Pathfinders who want to offer feedback are welcome as well. First, do you think my mud flap should be trimmed? And if so, by about how much or to where? I based my measurements on some other WIPs and the Soft Parts Best Practices post. It is about 10.5” in length, but it seems to be long, especially when looking at the CRL photo ... and this screen shot. It doesn’t really cover much of the butt. Second, do you see any issues of concern with the sleeves of my flak jacket? I’ve shortened them by about an 1” based on previous feedback. I think the length is okay, but I’ll leave the final verdict to your more discriminating eye. What I am really wondering is if I should take them in a bit so that they have a more snug fit to the undersuit. Your sage like expertise and advice as an armorer would greatly appreciated. [emoji6]Thanks Corey!

Alright, so it’s back to business to get this kit wrapped up for my Lancer app. This isn’t a lancer requirement, just a trooping adjustment: I added a bit of hook and loop to my bucket to help keep the face place from moving. Thanks to Omaha Joe for this little tidbit. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21642-odds-‘n-ends-wip-pics-from-omaha/page/2/ Should do the trick. My first troop is in two weeks so I’ll be able to fine tune any additional adjustments for trooping afterwards. There’s a big difference suiting up for photos and trooping in this for a couple of hours.

Lovin the sand in the crevasses of your bucket. Nice touch! Super cool! Keep up the great work.

That makes perfect sense and is in line with what I was planning to do. Thanks for clarifying Joe.

Joe, I’ve been tinkering with the idea of doing something similar to my bucket with the hook and loop since I got it. The face plate is just a tad loose with a little bit of movement. Looking at your photo it appears to me like you initially went with a smaller piece of hook towards the bottom and then added a second longer piece above it? Is that correct or are my aging eyes deceiving me? And if so did the initial smaller piece not work as intended?

Thanks Brother!