Aradun

Thanks Pete! Solid feedback and very helpful. Glad to hear most of the issues are dressing issues. I’ll get on the flak vest sleeves sometime this week. I can see looking back at the photos that the bund can come up about an inch. Looks like the belt may have a slight (1/2”) overlap with the bund. Thunder storms all day today so couldn’t get outside for photos. As for the riding patches, mud flap, and thigh straps, I lightened the exposure on the front and back photos to make them a little more visible. Hopefully it’ll help seeing those details. Now that I can see it in the above photo, I think the mud flap may need to be shortened but looking for some guidance on how much. LOL, as for the bavaclava, it was sitting on the dining room table and I didn’t realize I was “outta uniform” until I was taking everything off and I saw it sitting there. Rookie mistake 🙂. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Thanks Corey for going the extra mile here and thanks Lou[mention]Darth Voorhees [/mention]for being willing to potentially sacrifice some bad casts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. I should have known better! I did not prime it. Sorry, my mistake. It wasn’t Krylon. It was Rusoleum painter’s touch, which is a paint and primer, but I suspect it has the same issue as you described for the Krylon paint. I’m guessing I’ll need to remove the paint, in which case what is the best way? Sanding or some other alternative. Please say there’s another alternative, pleeeaase! Once the paint is removed should I just let it be or should I use a primer and Plasti-dip? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Test Fit! Hot diggity. I’m ready for my first official test fit. The only thing I need to do is add Velcro to the undersuit to secure the knee, bicep, and forearm pieces. These armor pieces are already fitted with Velcro so I just want to confirm proper placement before sewing anything to the undersuit. I also want to add a strap to the sleeve that will go over my thumb to keep the sleeve from riding up. Already have stirrups sewn to the pant legs and that’s a huge help. Note: I’m not wearing the balaclava in the photos. My impressions... Knee Armor: The knees slipped down a bit walking around. Definitely need the Velcro. They can come up 1 - 1.5 inches. Bicep Armor: Thought I had that centered around the outside of my bicep, but it looks like it is rotated too far towards the back in some photos. Thoughts? Flak Vest Sleeves: I’m thinking they need to come up at least an inch, maybe more. Thoughts? Questions: How is the position of the shoulder bells? Any adjustment needed? It’s tough to see because everything is new and still very dark, but how’s the length and width of the mud flap? Thoughts on the shoulder bridge? Not sure if I should take it in to tighten up the back or if it’s merely a matter of repositioning the front armor by moving it down and pulling the back armor up. I see that the bridge is rotated towards the back rather than seated on top of the shoulder. I’m thinking it’s a dressing issue but would like some feedback. Looking forward to you all weighing in here so that I can get things perfect! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Flak Vest Back to the flak vest. I added sleeves to the jacket now that my armor has arrived. When I put on my armor for an initial fitting and to see where the sleeves should end I saw that the flare out pictured below was going to be a potential issue. It was too low. So I created a seam along the first two ribs to eliminate the flare. Here’s the seam. And here’s the finished result. This narrowed the sleeve opening, which I was hoping would create a more snug fit when worn over the undersuit and avoid the dreaded sleeve flare under the shoulder bells. I then used the original sleeve from the t-shirt to create a new sleeve (oic below) for the flak jacket. Instead of making two separate pieces and then adding fill between them, I created a fold along the straight edge (i.e., the rim of the sleeve so that it was one piece. The benefit of this is that the sleeve doesn’t have a hem along the edge. It creates a cleaner look, is easier to see and if it needs to be shortened then you just fold it under and seam it. No cutting needed. Here it is with the poly fill added. And here it is all pinned and ready for the sewing machine. Once sewn, I set the sleeve against the shoulder piece to mark out the rubbing so the it would match up properly when the sleeve was attached. Here it is after the ribbing has been added. And here’s the end result. I added Velcro to the flak vest for the cod piece, to secure the CB, and secure the chest armor. I’ll need to rework the placement of the Velcro for the chest armor, as it does not stick at its current placement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My EC-17 holdout blaster received some light sanding to remove burrs and to file down the seam from the casting process. It’s pu rubber. There was also a shade difference from the blaster and the scope. I used a new can of Krylon Flat Black spray paint on it cover up the sanding marks and create a uniform color. The only problem is that the blaster is tacky to the touch. It’s been a full 2.5 days since it was painted. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue might be and how to correct it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to wrap up this thread...here it is all finished. I really like this, but am going to switch back to the RS for the interim until I can get some new clips with two mounting holes so that I can rivet them on. They’re currently screwed with a single screw, but I don’t think it will last that way. There’s a lot of flex b/c I can’t get them super tight. When I eventually get into 3D printing, I’m thinking about creating end caps that have a 1” round protrusion on the inside so that it pushes into the hose of the DIY TD which has a 1” ID. No glue and lessens the chance of the end cap breaking off if the TD is dropped. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the clarification guys. Was thinking I may have missed something. [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do they have to be riveted? CRL doesn’t specify. Only asking because I have mine mounted with Phillips machine screws and will correct if wrong. If the tube is hollow then rivets makes sense and would be the better more secure option. My RS tube is filled with foam so screws were a better choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Joe, Nice job on the weathering! They look really good! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here you go... Clips can be purchased here: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MR3CQCC/?coliid=I9C80S7S166H1&colid=17ZNF8WW4QACN&psc=1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve never heard of WS, but just looked them up now. All I can say is WOW! The level of detail they put into a foam liner is amazing and the price is reasonable for what you’re getting. I’m very tempted to pick up one for my TB. Given that so many of us line their buckets, perhaps WS Custom Helmet Liners can be added to the vendor list for the benefit of others like myself who never heard of this guy? Thoughts [mention]BikerScout007 [/mention] ? Thanks for posting your pics. Your lid looks awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome! Again, can’t wait to see you suited up and everything complete. You’re gonna look amazing! I’m saving this thread for reference down the line should I elect to do a build with similar weathering. This is a great resource Christina. Thanks for documenting the process with such detail and posting so many photos! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mention]BrewMongrel [/mention] Thank you! I’m glad you find my WIP helpful. I, like so many others here, am merely standing on the shoulders of other scouts who inspired me to bite the bullet and pull the trigger on my own build. Glad to hear I’m able to give back to the community that has been very supportive of me since I joined. There’s a ton of solid advice here from really knowledgeable and eager to help scouts. Be sure take advantage of their expertise, and bookmark all of the pertinent threads for reference. They’ll be your go-to’s throughout your build. I’ll be looking forward to seeing your own WIP! As to your question regarding the RS armor. I’m really pleased with it. The modifications to bring the entire kit up to lancer status are really minor and noted in my WIP. With the exception of the lining in the Red Label helmet which is needed because that portion of the shell is fiberglass, I don’t know why RS doesn’t just make the adjustments on their end. Everything else meets lancer specs. It took me less than a day to make the adjustments. The thing to consider when choosing which helmet to get is to keep in mind that unlike upgraded all ABS helmet, the Red Label doesn’t have much flex to it like ABS. I do find it snug to get it over my head. Not a deal breaker and once on it’s super comfy. I feel like I cheated a bit buying a set of armor that came ready to wear out of the box, but the RS reputation coupled with the fact that building my own armor would have added months to my build time, it was the way to go for me. No regrets. Shipping was about $70.00, which I thought was reasonable. It took two days to get from England to Philly and that with clearing customs. I ordered my armor in the dirty version. I was a bit leery about weathering it afterwards and maybe having a reaction between paints. Though many have weathered their own RS kits without issue. I’m sure you’ll be pleased. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mike, I would recommend going with the curve pictured on the left side in the photo (your right when wearing the undersuit). It’s a more gradual curve. As to the length, Retrofire provided solid advice above. It’s easier to go long and trim it back if needed than to go short and have to redo everything. If you’re leery, see if you can find a scout in your local garrison who might let you borrow his knee armor so you see how things line up. A local scout would be a great resource for you and depending on location might even be able to give you a hand with your build. Don’t worry about all the questions Mike. You won’t find anyone complaining about them. Ask away. Everyone here is always eager to help a fellow scout [emoji41]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Joe, I’m with you brother. I was super nervous about weathering the boots, CB and cod because I was afraid I’d mess up and have to redo them. I used a rattle can and did a test run on some old fabric to test my technique. Here’s what I found. 1. Don’t start spraying directly on the piece. You’re more likely to get splatter (dots of paint from not pressing fully on the can) or heavy “blaster spots” from pressing too much. Be sure to use a fresh can. An old can is likely to splatter more. 2. Start spraying off to the side of the piece and while spraying, rapidly move it across the area your trying to weather. Kind of like a slashing motion. Move in one direction only making a single strike with the can - not back and forth. 3. Start about 12” away and then you can layer it by repeating and moving a little closer to get the desired effect/intensity. 4. Keep a clean rag handy for the boots. If you feel you put too much paint on a spot use the rag to quickly wipe it away while it’s still wet. This will remove most of the paint from the surface but leave paint in the grain pattern. It really knocks back those dark spots and you can blend it in with the surrounding area. Note: This will only work on the boots not the CB or Cod. 5. I also velcroed the CB and set it upright rather than lying it flat and set it at a height about equal to where it would be if I were wearing it. That allowed my to better visualize where and how much weathering to apply. Remember, slow and steady wins the race, and a little weathering is way better than too much. Think about where you want to weather and have a visual in your head before you begin. Good luck brother, and feel free to hit me up with any questions if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My pleasure Mike. Have you considered making a pattern? Concentrate on getting one side the way you want using chalk. Then use a brown paper shopping bag, large sheet of paper, or even the thin cardboard from a cereal box to make the pattern. Once you have a pattern you can transfer it to the other side to ensure that both sides match and are symmetrical. You’ll also need the pattern to cut out the fabric for the patches. If you’re going to have a seamstress do it then at least you can be sure the patches will be done the way you like if you provide them with the pattern. Here’s an example from my own WIP: More details can be found in my WIP if you’re interested. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21137-dennis-scout-wip-lancer/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mike, looking good! Just make sure that they are as even as possible. In the photo, the right side looks like the curve drops sharper at the top than the left side, but it could just be an optical thing with the way the undersuit is laid out for the photo. You did say that everything was even and it appears less noticeable in the photo where you are wearing it. Get into the habit of double and triple checking everything. It’ll save you a ton of time having to redo things down the line [emoji6]. The CRL is you new best friend. Keep a copy within hands reach as you work on your build. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper In the CRL photo above you can see how the patch curves in behind the cod piece. I’ve seen some apps where the patches come up higher as in the reference photo posted by BikerScout007 above. Both ways have been approved. You’ll also notice that the patches come down and sit behind the knee armor. I think the rule of thumb is that they end about 1 - 1.5” above your knee. If I’m wrong, someone will correct me. Here’s a shot of my undersuit. You can see the original stitch lines along the top if you zoom in. As I mentioned earlier, the corners were poking out ever so slightly from behind the cod piece so I adjusted them accordingly because I’m shooting for Lancer with my build, and that would be an issue. To be clear, my scout is still a WIP and I have not been approved yet. I’m certain the undersuit will pass basic, but it may turn out that I need to round the front patches in a bit more at the top for Lancer depending on how it looks with the cod piece once everything comes together. I think your layout looks good. I don’t think you’ll have an issue with the new curve. Hopefully one of the armorers will chime in. Keep up the great work and keep those questions coming. You’ll get lots of help along the way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL! [emoji1787]. Sometimes I think I live in a household filled with Ewoks. Thanks Pete, and thanks for all the help over the course of my build too. All of you here at the detachment are so knowledgeable, helpful, and just plain awesome, which inspires me to give my best. This really is the best detachment in the 501st [emoji41]. Looking forward to joining the ranks soon. The horizon is in sight brother! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All of the items above have been addressed and corrected to bring the RS kit up to Lancer specs. Taking advantage of some down time today and the hot sunny weather to do some weathering. I’ve weathered my boots and installed the holster. Light weathering on the cod piece. Added Velcro yesterday to secure the belt. And light weathering on the CB. Also applied a second coat of semi gloss to new end caps. I had an issue removing the flat original end caps from the RS TD so that I could rework them and get them concave. Got one off and the second one cracked, so reusing them after reshaping went out the window. I created a separate post for that here thinking it might be helpful to others and more easily found in a search: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21658-thermal-detonator-ends-caps/ Long story short I found this puppy at Homedepot. It’s pictured next to the original RS end cap that I was working to make concave. After cutting it down to size, sanding the top flat with a dremel multi-tool, removing the exterior ridges with a dremel sanding band, I then used the sanding band in combination with a cutting tool to thin the wall thickness of the cap’s rim to match the original. All in all about 1.5 - 2 hours work to finish both caps. Anyone else who does this should have a baseball handy. Once your finished sanding the top down with the dremel multi-tool the plastic is super hot. I used a baseball to press down on the top and it made a perfect concave impression in the cap with minimal effort. Thanks [mention]Chopper [/mention]for that fantastic tip! I’m pretty pleased with the results. I also made a wire wrapped TD. But as others noted in my post referenced above the wire wrapped TD is HEAVY, so I’m having second thoughts on using it for trooping. Here it is without the ends caps which are currently still drying. I’ve sanded and repainted the original RS tube just in case. The original has a great shape, but I’m not crazy about the mold. Lots of small bubbles and blemishes. I’ve hit it up with a coat of gray primer filler to see if I can cover up some of those issues. The only thing left to do is to hand sew some Velcro onto the undersuit to secure my knee, bicep, and forearm armor and finish the sleeves on my flak jack. The latter of which is presenting some challenges which I’ll document in a later post. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My two cents from my own experience...round the top outside edge of your front patches a bit more like so... The reason being you do not have your cod piece to see how the patches will appear beneath it. You mentioned that you have a relatively thin build so your cod piece might need to be slightly narrower to accommodate your build and then you run the risk of having those corner edges popping out from beneath your cod piece. When I did mine, I had squared off ends. Then when I did my cod piece the corners of those squared off edges poked out from beneath the cod ever so slightly. So I had to go back, seem rip the front patch at the corners, round them, and restitch by hand. You’ll save yourself some potential aggravation by rounding them now, not to mention another trip to your seamstress. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I checked. The caps are good to go. I hope to have pics of it all finished soon. Just need to paint the caps semi gloss white and mount them.

Whew! That’s a relief! I was dreading the thought of trying to correct it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for advice guys. Magnets ordered. Fingers crossed [emoji1696]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phenomenal Christina. Again, can’t wait to see this finished and you suited up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk