Aradun

There’s not a lot of options for a fully printed DLT19X. It’s more common to find a regular DLT19, which you could opt for, as it too is listed as an option in the ROTJ Scout CRL. Keep in mind that if you look for a 19X version that it should not have the bipod mounted to it. I mention that because sometimes you see merchants offering a DLT19 with a scope slapped on top. It won’t be approved by a GML with the bipod (or at least shouldn’t be). I’ll be honest, for the price of a finished DLT19X, I decided to invest in a 3D printer instead for about $100 more. It was worth the investment! I’ve bought plenty of 3D print files to print my own stuff, but I don’t have any experience with vendors that print 3D models aside from Brian Payne who owns 3DPrintMercMart on Etsy. He has a DLT19 DIY kit that you assemble and finish, but not the 19X. He does offer a completely finished version via custom request. If you have your heart set on the 19X, you could reach out to him and see if he could omit the bipod if you go with the custom finish request, or if it could be assembled without out it if you plan to get the DIY kit and finish it yourself. Then you would just need to add the proper Scope, which is also tough to find finished. I do want to note that there is one merchant on Etsy that I found when getting ready to reply to you that has a very good version of the DLT19X, but it appears he is printing someone else’s IP. I won’t recommend him until I find out if he has permission from the owner of the files he appears to be using. I’ll be sure to follow up if I hear anything. If you have a garrison mate or friend with a 3D printer, you could always pick up the files and pay them to print it for you. Then, assemble and finish it yourself.

The bucket looks good Arne. Almost there! Nice work with the ABS paste.

Looking forward to seeing your build come together Juan! As I said, if you need any help, I’m happy to get together to assist. You’ll find plenty of expert advice from our armorers. They’re the best in the Legion, so be sure to post up any questions you may have along the way.

If you can hold off on getting the EC17 for a little while, the new mold owner of DVH’s blaster should be in production soon.

I’ve seen the finished product of this particular model of DLT19X and it’s undersized. It’s much narrower with a smaller diameter barrel and will be noticeable right away if another trooper is carrying a DLT19X or a stormy is packing a standard DLT19.

Buckets off…

You really lucked out! I know several scouts who have reached out to get the manufacturer and color of the paint they use but came up bust. This is good info to know as it comes up from time to time with scouts who go with a RS bucket and a different manufacturer for their armor. Thanks for confirming with RS and thanks@jennyruth for sourcing the paint. Well done!

Congrats Joe! Thanks for stepping up and taking on an additional role. You rock brother!

The CRL is your best friend Garrett 😉. If you don’t have a copy handy, make sure to print one out. No white dot, but the red line detail is specified for the tank topper. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Scout-Trooper-The-Mandalorian Also, I haven’t seen Steph’s video tutorial for the boots, but Cheesewhoopy’s boot tutorial does a great job of showing you how to measure things out. Give it a look.

Pathfinders lead the way! Awesome!

For option #2, why compress the rivet? I’m fairly certain that you can tap out the mandrel stem, which will leave you with a perfect shaft rather than one that is bulbous due to being compressed. You’ll also know the right size drill to use so you’ll get the hole diameter right the first time, and that hole will be a much smaller diameter than one for a compressed rivet. Lastly, choose the smallest pin head possible so that when you insert it into the hole and glue it in place you don’t have much sticking out on the inside of the knee armor. I suspect that it will rub and wear the strapping if the strapping is glued over the pin to give the appearance that the rivet is actually functional.

Fantastic work!

Didn’t even know that was a possibility lol. I’ll have to look into that as you have me curious now.

Okay, so after my first troop, it became apparent that I needed to make some adjustments in the baton’s set up. The rod was originally secured into place using the method developed by MrPoopie in his JFO WIP. That’s an excellent method if you’re not using electronics, but will lead to this if you have wires running through the body of the baton. That’s the LED wire that runs through the prod shaft. The two screws I used to lock the shaft in place were catching the wire and pulling it up into the PVC channel I created as I extended and retracted the prod shaft. I realized something was amiss when I recently couldn’t retract the prod without a great deal of effort. So the channel and the screws were removed. Original set up: I then printed a new end piece for the prod and a new tip for the main body both with 100% infill. I wanted solid pieces so that I could insert magnets to secure the prod in place. I also anticipated some filing and sanding to get the pieces to slide freely with the magnets, which is why 100% infill was needed. I didn’t want to risk compromising the integrity of the piece with a lesser fill ratio. I used a Dremel with a grinding stone to shape out the channel for the magnets. The key is to go slow and steady because the stone will quickly melt the plastic if a high rpm is used or you work one area for too long. I think I was operating it between 5-10K rpm. It’s also a good idea to keep the wooden dowel in place so the internal side doesn’t warp or become misshaped during this process. I was originally going to use three magnets but went with two out of concern for integrity. Make sure to mark the outside face of each magnet so that they are oriented the same. If you mess up the polarity thing it won’t work [emoji6]. Then I did the same for the main tip. The walls of this piece are much thinner, so the magnets will not be flush with the outer surface as they are with the shaft end. You’ll then need to do some filing of the inside of the main tip and the inside of the PVC pipe that the tip slides into. Just spot filing. There’s no need to file the entire inside of either piece. It’s a snug fit with the magnets so I did not use glue in case I ever have to disassemble it for some reason. However, because it is snug, it will make the inner tube of the main tip snug, which means the prod may not slide freely without some effort. A little filing of the main tip and everything was sliding through with easy. I felt that if the prod shaft had too much weight, the magnets would be unable to support it and hold it in place. The magnets are 60x10x3mm Neodymium with 18 lb pull. I used 3/8” PEX pipe instead of the wooden dowel to reduce the weight and to allow for the LED wiring to feed through. I used flat pan connectors rather than solder to connect the wires running from the LED to the wiring running from the battery up the shaft. This too will make for an easy disconnect if I have to remove or replace the prod tip or LED. Once everything was reconnected and put back together it worked like a charm. Easy slide and the magnets do what was intended. What’s really cool is now I can thrust the baton and it locks into place while activating the sound at the same time. Pretty cool effect [emoji41].

Frank, I wouldn’t worry about the shade difference between your bucket and the rest of your armor. I have an RS bucket and armor set and they deliberately use a difference sheen (helmet is flat and armor is gloss). Others like yourself use different vendors for their bucket and armor a lot. No one notices. You always will, but that’s because you know the finer details of your kit. Fans will be oblivious in their excitement [emoji6]. As Chopper said, your boots look fine and that vinyl will wrinkle and crease anyway over time so no sense in trying to get them crease/wrinkle free. Once you put a strap in your boot to address the boot droop with your holster it’ll be even less noticeable. Great to see you back at this and the finish line within view!

Love it! It isn’t easy to match the color of the ABS used by RS, but you did a bang up job! Well done! Filing that paint info away for the future!

If you know someone in the US, they might be able to ship it to you via a Priority Mail International[emoji2400] Legal Flat Rate Envelope which measures 15”x9.5” and costs a flat rate of $29.60 USD. The shield packaging measures 15.5”x8” so you might need to trim 1/2” to get it to fit, but that is cheaper than the other avenues you looked at.

Nope. I imagine it would be roughly the same ease ether way.

Brien, this is just my personal preference, so take it for what it is, but I'm not a fan of using parachute clips to secure the strap to the cummerbund/flak vest. That clip will most likely sit, under the CB and press into the small of your back. I just don't feel that it would be comfortable for long because the CB is usually a snug fit. I know one or two guys who troop with that set up and I don't know if it's an adjustment/dressing issue, but I almost always see that clip slipping out, causing the strap to sag between their legs while trooping. I secure mine with hook and loop to the back of my flak vest.

We’re the advanced teams for the Empire; the first boots on the ground. We get down and dirty unlike our shiny brothers and sisters 🤣😉.

Hey Garrett! Welcome! Excited to see your build and if you have Mikerscout in your corner you’ll be in great hands. For the Kingshow boots, I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017THAWAO/?coliid=IICGVXFJ7GZ90&colid=17ZNF8WW4QACN&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it For the cummerbund is used https://www.joann.com/sateen-solids/5970074.html I picked up 2 yards, and was able to make 3 bunds. One for practice, one for my ROTJ and one for my JFO. I used the following for batting in the cummerbund and cod: https://www.joann.com/fairfield-poly-fil-project-fleece-81inx96in-full-size-batting/15954084.html#q=poly-fil%2Bproject%2Bfleece&start=1 For the pouches: https://www.joann.com/jo-ann-stores-duck-canvas-fabric/2136323.html Others may chime in with alternative options, but as you’re going to Joann’s, I thought this might be helpful.

That’s how I have mine set up. It loops through the slot on the chest armor and then folds back and Velcros to the band spanning the back and chest armor. You can see the square stitching for the Velcro on the second photo below circled in red. Velcro is also used to attach the band to the inside of the back armor as it passes through to the other side as seen below.

MrPoopie showed the boots on Zoom today. They look amazing! Well done.

Today was great and I really enjoyed it! It was awesome seeing everyone and chatting. Thanks for making this possible.

Dig no further… https://www.etsy.com/listing/741836481/biker-scout-helmet-audio-system?click_key=b1495fd4bede4eb709f5495b7399beb1ea2e8d77%3A741836481&click_sum=8a8e8648&ref=shop_home_recs_1&frs=1&sts=1 This is probably one of if not thee most expensive audio option available. Compare that to the VoiceBooster for about 1/3 of the price. https://smile.amazon.com/VoiceBooster-Voice-Black-MR1506-Presentations/dp/B003FQ2X56/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=11C6Y3FPWAGX8&keywords=aker+1506&qid=1649301754&sprefix=aker%25201506%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-4 You can even get a decent speaker and headset for abt $35. It all depends on how much work you want to do to “blend” the audio into your set up and how much cash you want to invest. I know some scouts in my garrison that have a decent but cost effective speaker in their pouch, but then invest in a blue tooth headset so they don’t have to run any wires. Like I said, lots of audio options are available at different price points, which will help you stay on budget and you can always upgrade later.