Aradun

Congrats Scott! Well done Pathfinder - a Superb build!

Looking good Conor. It looks like all that Advanced Recon you put in has paid off. You’ll have no issue with glove flare for those Wampa gloves. No one has ever had to adjust them for basic or lancer. You good in that regard. As to the snout piece and Ukswrath. He should have provided you with the aerator piece. All you’ll need is a new backing plate as the RS one is all one piece construction. To make a new backing plate grab a sheet/piece of ABS and use the RS plate to trace out a new plate. Drill a hole for the mic wire, attach the aerator piece with the mic. Paint it gray and then remount it to the faceplate of the helmet with some outdoor double face 3M mounting tape. That’s it. Pretty easy. Let us know if you have any other questions. We’re here to help!

Patterns for the pouches along with a tutorial can be found d here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions-and-patterns/ Removable or attached is a matter of preference. Either way will work.

A DIY boot build will likely be your best bet, but the challenge will be finding boots with a solid wheat colored sole as opposed to a two tone sole. They’re becoming scarce. Your major boot brands are likely to have wide options, but if you’re a EE then that’s adding another layer to the challenge. These Cat’s are available in a wide. They’re pricey, but still under what you’d pay for a pair made by CrowProps. The vinyl will run about $25 and the E6000 maybe $10. https://www.amazon.com/Caterpillar-Mens-Shift-Plain-Honey/dp/B000AMUPFS?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1 If those don’t work because you need an EE, then you may need to find something that fits with an acceptable sole and then paint the sole wheat colored. We can help with that, as scouts have done that before. The tutorial to make your own boots is here:

Welcome Toby! Make sure to do your homework if you’re planning to print your armor. Not all vendors sell files that are approvable. If you have any questions or want to run anything by the armory team prior to purchasing where here for you.

Looking forward to watching your journey to approval unfold. Let us know if you have any questions along the way. We’re here to help you get across the finish line!

Wickedly cool! Love it!

@Chopper do you this info. My kit is packed away at the moment. Won’t be trooping until April.

Correct. The straps should be in between. But use the marks indicated by Chopper even though you raised the knee armor slightly. In other words, you don’t need to raise the straps higher because you adjusted the knee armor higher. Chopper’s placement is the ideal spot.

Even with you raising your knee armor slightly, you should still move the thigh straps to where Chopper indicated in the photo above.

I used E6000 and have had no issues with the bond. Not sure if that’s available in China or what the equivalent would be if it isn’t. I don’t think CA glue would hold over time.

Here’s how I did mine: The magnets in the scope are recessed flush. The magnets on the DLT are glued to the surface.

Sweet!

Correct.

So, your patches are the back suede or faux suede area on the flight suit. Their current placement is fine. It’s okay if the patches extend a little underneath the knee armor. The CRL states that they end above the knee, meaning your physical knee, NOT your knee armor. As for the curve, the CRL doesn’t specify that the curve of the patches needs to match the curve of the cod piece. Your bund, belt, and cod have room to come up an inch or two. Once you dial in the placement of the bund, belt, and cod everything else will fall into place. You just need to round the hard corners of the patches as indicated above. If you look through Gloria’s thread, you’ll see a post from Chopper on April 20 with a green line indicating where the corner should be rounded. Gloria was using chalk to mock up the patches so she could make a pattern. The elastic straps merely need to be moved up so that they sit half way between the top of the knee armor and your drop boxes. The butt flap in the back just needs to be removed and raised to where Chopper indicated in the photo. That’s it. Easy fixes. I hope that I’ve cleared things up for you. If not let me know. Where here to help!

These are easy fixes Nes. Any seamstress will be able to make these adjustments and it should cost you far less than a new suit. For the riding patches you just want to round those hard corners. Give your seamstress a copy of the CRL and show her the pictures in the CRL so she can visualize what needs to be done. You’re very close to the finish line. Keep up the great work!

It’s been several years since I did mine, but I just gave the inner lens area a light sanding to remove the burrs, and then primed and painted it. I then inserted a red translucent acrylic lens which obscured any rough or unsightly areas. Same for the back end of the scope. If you’re not planning on putting a lens in then reprinting with a light curing method as you described would be the way to go.

That’s correct.

Nice work on the assembly. Looks great! As for the chin strap, it’s not required for L1 and is only optional for L2. That being said, I do have one. Most scouts in my garrison have one, simply because most vendors provide it with their kits. The nice thing about is that it’s another feature, along with any padding or helmet liner you install in the bucket, that helps to keep the bucket from shifting.

Feel free to post up a pic and we can look them over.

I’ll be honest. Most people who do their own boots, just sketch out the cut outs on their boot soles and post photos here for feedback. Rarely do we have to tell them to make any major mods to their layout. Don’t over think it. It’s way easier than you might think. The hardest part nowadays seems to be finds boots that have solid wheat colored soles and are not two tone.

I’ve not come across a finished scope for sale. They are mostly 3D stl files or the scope is only included with the DLT19X. I’d recommend reaching out to a vendor who sells the complete DLT19X and see if they’ll print you a scope for a decent price. Remember too for your conversion that the bi-pod should be removed for the 19X.

I have my cod attached via Velcro to the bottom of my flak vest. In the photo below, you’re looking at the front of the cod. The stitching at the top is the Velcro that attached to the flak vest. The Velcro patches that are visible mid cod are to secure my belt in place.

Standard CA glue has its applications but I would refrain from using it to glue reinforcement pieces to the chest armor. The locations for reinforcement are high stress areas that flex when donning and doffing the armor. CA glue will fail over time under these conditions. I can’t speak to the gel CA version.

The best thing to use to get things sized properly for 3D printed costumes is a program known as Armorsmith Designer. It will allow you to create an avatar based on your body measurements which you can then you to enlarge or reduce the stl files to fit. It runs about 40 bucks but it’s worth the investment.