Aradun

Wickedly cool! Love it!

@Chopper do you this info. My kit is packed away at the moment. Won’t be trooping until April.

Correct. The straps should be in between. But use the marks indicated by Chopper even though you raised the knee armor slightly. In other words, you don’t need to raise the straps higher because you adjusted the knee armor higher. Chopper’s placement is the ideal spot.

Even with you raising your knee armor slightly, you should still move the thigh straps to where Chopper indicated in the photo above.

I used E6000 and have had no issues with the bond. Not sure if that’s available in China or what the equivalent would be if it isn’t. I don’t think CA glue would hold over time.

Here’s how I did mine: The magnets in the scope are recessed flush. The magnets on the DLT are glued to the surface.

Sweet!

Correct.

So, your patches are the back suede or faux suede area on the flight suit. Their current placement is fine. It’s okay if the patches extend a little underneath the knee armor. The CRL states that they end above the knee, meaning your physical knee, NOT your knee armor. As for the curve, the CRL doesn’t specify that the curve of the patches needs to match the curve of the cod piece. Your bund, belt, and cod have room to come up an inch or two. Once you dial in the placement of the bund, belt, and cod everything else will fall into place. You just need to round the hard corners of the patches as indicated above. If you look through Gloria’s thread, you’ll see a post from Chopper on April 20 with a green line indicating where the corner should be rounded. Gloria was using chalk to mock up the patches so she could make a pattern. The elastic straps merely need to be moved up so that they sit half way between the top of the knee armor and your drop boxes. The butt flap in the back just needs to be removed and raised to where Chopper indicated in the photo. That’s it. Easy fixes. I hope that I’ve cleared things up for you. If not let me know. Where here to help!

These are easy fixes Nes. Any seamstress will be able to make these adjustments and it should cost you far less than a new suit. For the riding patches you just want to round those hard corners. Give your seamstress a copy of the CRL and show her the pictures in the CRL so she can visualize what needs to be done. You’re very close to the finish line. Keep up the great work!

It’s been several years since I did mine, but I just gave the inner lens area a light sanding to remove the burrs, and then primed and painted it. I then inserted a red translucent acrylic lens which obscured any rough or unsightly areas. Same for the back end of the scope. If you’re not planning on putting a lens in then reprinting with a light curing method as you described would be the way to go.

That’s correct.

Nice work on the assembly. Looks great! As for the chin strap, it’s not required for L1 and is only optional for L2. That being said, I do have one. Most scouts in my garrison have one, simply because most vendors provide it with their kits. The nice thing about is that it’s another feature, along with any padding or helmet liner you install in the bucket, that helps to keep the bucket from shifting.

Feel free to post up a pic and we can look them over.

I’ll be honest. Most people who do their own boots, just sketch out the cut outs on their boot soles and post photos here for feedback. Rarely do we have to tell them to make any major mods to their layout. Don’t over think it. It’s way easier than you might think. The hardest part nowadays seems to be finds boots that have solid wheat colored soles and are not two tone.

I’ve not come across a finished scope for sale. They are mostly 3D stl files or the scope is only included with the DLT19X. I’d recommend reaching out to a vendor who sells the complete DLT19X and see if they’ll print you a scope for a decent price. Remember too for your conversion that the bi-pod should be removed for the 19X.

I have my cod attached via Velcro to the bottom of my flak vest. In the photo below, you’re looking at the front of the cod. The stitching at the top is the Velcro that attached to the flak vest. The Velcro patches that are visible mid cod are to secure my belt in place.

Standard CA glue has its applications but I would refrain from using it to glue reinforcement pieces to the chest armor. The locations for reinforcement are high stress areas that flex when donning and doffing the armor. CA glue will fail over time under these conditions. I can’t speak to the gel CA version.

The best thing to use to get things sized properly for 3D printed costumes is a program known as Armorsmith Designer. It will allow you to create an avatar based on your body measurements which you can then you to enlarge or reduce the stl files to fit. It runs about 40 bucks but it’s worth the investment.

JB Plastic Weld is what I used. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dust free before applying the weld. As for placement, I recently discussed this in another thread and posted pics on where my reinforcements were placed. You’ll need to apply heat to the reinforcement pieces to soften them up so that they will conform to the shape of the armor. Of course you’ll want to just apply the heat to the reinforcement piece apart from the armor and not directly to the armor itself.

I want to preface this by saying that there’s nothing wrong with your bucket, even with the chin strap visible occasionally. These “imperfections” that were a part of the original costumes are a part of the charm of Star Wars costuming. But being a bit of a perfectionist myself, I understand the need to “fix” these imperfections. If it really bothers you and you want to go the magnet route, I’ve marked on the photos below approximate placement. You’ll have to get a feel for this through trial and error for best placement on your bucket. Using your photo. I’d start by putting a magnet on the inside of the face plate where the red mark is. Then place a magnet just below or in front of the chin strap on the dome so that it lines up with magnet on the inside of the face plate. You’d use the same process if you went the Velcro route too. If the space between the faceplate and the dome in this location is too narrow, you may have to put the magnet on the inside of the dome, as indicated below with the red mark. Be mindful that these are just general locations to give you a visual reference. You’ll need to figure out the best placement for your bucket.

The chin cup is optional and not required for approval, so if you are not pleased with the aesthetics, you can completely remove the strap and chin cup. If you’re looking for a way to keep the chin cup, but prevent the strap that runs along the side of the dome from being exposed when you move your head, consider adding magnets to the problem side to hold the visor in place. That should keep it from moving when you lean forward or turn your head.

For the leg flare you noted: Add some 3/4” strapping to your flight suit across the opening of your foot to create a stirrup under the arch of your foot. That way the legs of the flight suit are pulled taunt when you put them on and they won’t ride up when you put on the boots. The butt flap should be shortened, but wait for @Chopper to tell you how much. Also, Chopper, what are your thoughts on the front patches? The front patches have hard corners, and I know GMLs tend to look for more rounded corners to match the CRL images. Not sure if it’s an issue for basic though.

Awesome! Congrats and welcome to the PFD as a fellow scout! Very smart of you to wait until you have a few troops under your belt before applying for Lancer. That’ll give you a chance to make any tweaks and adjustments needed to polish off the fit before you apply. Well done!

Congrats and welcome to the ranks!