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Chopper

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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. Chopper
    Hey, welcome to the Pathfinders. Helmet construction can differ, depending on the vendor. What helmet do you have? Which vendor did you get it from?
  2. Chopper
    Yes, I think that color should work just fine. That's an acrylic paint?
  3. Chopper
    Damn that Mr. Paul print just looks so good.
  4. Chopper
    You can totally get basic approval for your scout with a canvas bund. As per the CRL: "Made from white fabric and may be lightly weathered." The items you're referring two are for "Level 2 approval" or "Lancer", which is optional. "Made of smooth white cotton fabric Polished cotton or mercerized cotton is preferred. Canvas or duck cloth is not permitted." We all love Jeff at SC, but I'd gamble that the website info on soft goods is out of date. If you're looking to get some fabric for a Level 2 approvable bund, I'd look around at Jo-Anns for some smooth white cotton fabric. You're looking for something very slightly thicker than bedsheet fabric, so it doesn't show though, but is similar in terms of appearance. We don't require "polished" or "mercerized" cotton for Level 2 b/c those materials can be a bit tricky to find, hence the term "smooth, white, cotton fabric".
  5. Chopper
    I'd try and pick up some black if you can. Amazon stocks it. You can open up part of the legs and arms of you want to machine sew the velcro. If you don't want to get so invasive, you can hand sew it. Do yourself a favor and buy a metal thimble. Velcro can take a little effort to punch through and your thumb will thank you later.
  6. Chopper
    That's an SC holster? If so, the SC holster is roughly sized for the Hyperfirm blaster, which was quite a bit wider than most of the other blasters out there. Most blasters don't fit perfectly into the SC holster bc of that, so folks tend to either use magnets, a non-visible shim, or a combination of both to keep the pistol secure.
  7. Chopper
    I have two pieces of velcro on the front of my vest and one on the back. That seems to keep the bund from sagging. I also think part of the issue is that your armor is sliding backwards on your torso. I put some additional velcro on the shoulder areas of my vest, which attaches to the front shoulders of my chest armor. It keeps things from sliding around. Again -- I think you're good to go for basic approval, so take these suggestions as merely "refinements". You can see how I have everything rigged up from the post Dennis linked above:
  8. Chopper
    I would try to pull your bund up a bit, so there's no black showing between the armor and bund. Adding some velcro to the flak vest can help to keep the bund from slipping down. Pulling the bund up would also make it show less under your belt as well. I don't think that issue would prevent basic approval though. Good work overall!
  9. Chopper
    Very nice work, Troy!
  10. Chopper
    They look great, Jill. Great progress.
  11. Chopper
    No problem!
  12. Chopper
    Yeah and the vest shouldn't be heavy duck canvas (yikes!). I think that the material you describe should be just fine for the flak vest.
  13. Chopper
    Level 1 of the CRL calls for the vest to be made from "black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric". As per the CRL, the vest should be made from a heavier material. How lightweight is the material you're using for your undersuit?
  14. Chopper
    Oh also, have you decided on what other armor to use instead of the RS kit? Mon Cal/Far Away Creations armor is decently suited for folks with medium to small body types. You can always email Kathy and Cal to check and see if their kit would fit you.
  15. Chopper
    I've seen a few different fabrics used for flak vests -- from cotton twill to the t-shirt fabric you're using now. I know that the t-shirt fabric can start to get a bit worn down after repeated use, so there's the durability factor to consider. As far as appearances go, I think what you've got looks fine to me. I certainly wouldn't have any issues with the fabric appearance for a level 2 review.
  16. Chopper
    Hi Jenny are you still using RS Props armor? Generally you don't want the flak vest neck opening to extend beyond the outer edges of the shoulder bridges. The neck space on different scout armor types can vary depending on the vendor, but I think the neck opening on your flak vest should be a-ok with the RS kit.
  17. Chopper
    I'd admit that the wording isn't super precise there, but my read on the intent is that the "webbing" in Level 1 only defines the color. Webbing can be made of a number of materials, polypro, nylon, cotton, elastic. In Level 2 it gets more specific stating that the webbing should be cotton material, as it was in ROTJ, or elastic if the color matches. In instances where there can be some wording confusion between the level requirements, my personal opinion is that Level 2 should be accepted. However, as with all basic approvals, your GML would have final say on it.
  18. Chopper
    Yes, we typically recommend velcro on the knees, elbows, and forearms to keep them in place while trooping. Here's some tips that I came up with from a few years ago: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ I know some people use magnets to hold their detonator in place. In the thread above I used velcro, which worked, but I actually ended up taking it off. For my body size, I found that I didn't need anything more than the metal clips and I haven't had an issue since then.
  19. Chopper
    Hey Mike -- I think your right shoulder, which is closer to the chest armor bridge, is positioned about right. Your left shoulder should come up to match. Your drop boxes could come up, yes. The ideal is to have the drop boxes hang about 1" from the belt, but there's no specific requirement for basic approval.
  20. Chopper
    Looks good dude 👍
  21. Chopper
    Yeah the height looks ok. How's the curve of it fit when you have your boot on?
  22. Chopper
    Hi Edwin, Great work getting your tank to fit properly. It looks solid! For your flak vest, the CRL basic description says "Raglan sleeves are padded and ribbed." I would double-check to see if your GML will accept the vest for basic approval. For Level 2 the ribbing would definitely need to go all around the sleeves as per the CRL photo. I have to admit that I haven't seen that brand of scout boots before. From what I can tell, they should clear basic approval, similarly to the Imperial Boots. There are some elements of the boots that would make it difficult for Level 2 clearance though -- the cover strip along the front edge of the boot looks really wide and the sole stitches are showing. Again those are Level 2 issues. Let's focus on the bright spots -- I do think you're really close to basic clearance right now. Again, we're always happy to take a look whenever you're ready!
  23. Chopper
    That position looks about right, Pedro.
  24. Chopper
    I think you're pretty close for basic approval right now. Basic clearance will depend on your GML, but if you hide the dangling straps on your drop boxes and adjust your butt flap then you should be ok. Feel free to show us some final photos and we'd be happy to give it a one last look. From your photo above, does your flak vest only have ribbing on part of the sleeves? Out of curiosity, where did you get your boots? Are those Imperial Boots? For Level 2, you would need to do the requisite cuts to match the Sierra Sneaker pattern, then paint the soles a single "wheat" color. Acrylic paint is recommended for painting the soles. Also, I can't tell from your current photos, but if your boots are from IB, then I think there's also some small horizontal stitches on the 1" velcro that need to be removed.
  25. Chopper
    Hey Edwin, the t-straps are still permitted for Level 1 clearance, but I think what you've done with the zip ties looks good. The primary item I would add is for you to put some velcro at the bottom of your flak vest and at the top of your bund. This will help to keep it from slipping down when you wear it. Your butt flap looks like it's long and doubled over? Are you still working on trimming it to fit? If it helps, I've marked in green where the butt flap should approximately end for you. Your leg straps are a little loose, but I think they'd be ok for Level 1 clearance. On your tank, can you cut another slot hole into the bottom bump, like you did with the top?
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