Chopper

Personally, I switched over to https://imgur.com/ when photobucket crapped out.

You know how much we all enjoy a rowdy conversation about the widths of elastics!

From the Lancer specs: "Zip Ties holding the shoulder bell to the shoulder bridge join are optional but recommended." Here's a photo that shows the bridge cover set up fairly well: There's probably a foreshortening effect, but the bridge cover in that photo looks like its about an inch. However, the exact size is not stipulated in either the CRL or Lancer standards. "Shoulder bridge covers spanning the gap between front and back armor should white cotton material. Nylon webbing is not acceptable" Personally, I used the same 1.5" cotton webbing that I used for my chest armor and drop boxes.

Solid!

In terms of shape I'd say it's looking pretty excellent. Here's the original helmet that RS Props acquired: You might want to hit the edges with an emory board to smooth them out, but otherwise, looking good.

Thank you Khazara! I made some tabs on my Red Cap to cinch the cuff down on my arm, but I like your idea. I might try a combination of both in the future -- the tab keeps the sleeve from rotating too much and the loop keeps it from pulling up?

Looks like you've got a Hyperfirm blaster. You should be a-ok for basic approval.

Thanks everyone. If I can help folks out by showing what I learned through trial and error, then I've done my job as a Scout.

Hi everyone, this is a thread I've been wanting to post for a while now. There are plenty of great build threads on the Pathfinders Forums, but I thought it might be helpful to share some tips for keeping your scout costume together while trooping. Usually these are the sorts of things you discover after you've been walking around in your armor for a number of hours! I'm not a huge person, so, when I first started trooping I found that a lot of my armor parts would shift around throughout the day (particularly my belt, knees, biceps, and forearms). After my first few troops I started modifying my scout costume to try and make it as stable as possible. Anyhow, below are a few of the modifications I made to prevent parts from shifting awkwardly and falling off. All of the mods are non-visible once everything is attached and I was approved as a Lancer with everything I've shown below. Remember, this is by no means the only way to keep everything together, but hopefully it'll provide some good ideas for all you new scouts trooping away out there. Tank -- I wanted to make it look like I was using the 1/2" elastic strapping to keep the tank on, just as was done on screen, but I wanted to make it a bit more stable. My 1/2" elastic strapping attached to velcro on the inside. Also, for stability, I anchored 2" velcro strapping on the inside of the tank, and attached it to the back armor. Undersuit -- I sewed 2" hook velcro onto on the knee, bicep, and forearm positions of my undersuit and and placed loop velcro inside the armor parts. In order to find the proper positions to sew the velcro, I put my armor parts on and then marked where they were in chalk. This meant I wouldn't have any velcro sticking out awkwardly when the parts were anchored on. I know that some folks add stirrups to the bottom of their pant legs. I tried it, didn't like it, and ended up sewing boot blousers to the bottoms of the legs instead. Flak Vest -- I sewed 2" hook velcro on the front of the vest and loop velcro on the back of the cod. My vest is a little bit longer than most, but you could easily do this mod on your undersuit as well. The end of the 2" elastic coming off of the cod attaches to the back of the vest. The front of the cod has a large strip of hook velcro for anchoring the front of the belt. As I mentioned, my belt was constantly slipping down, so this keeps it in place. The corresponding loop veclro is mounted on the triangle portions on the inside front of the belt. Also note that my 2" webbing on the belt extends much further beyond the single rivet on the inside. I velcroed the webbing to the inside of my belt in order to take the load off of the rivet, which is a known stress point. The vest also has hook velcro to attach the bund just underneath the armpit level as well as two small pieces of velcro on the upper chest to hold the front armor in place. The velcro tab on the back of the bund attaches to the back of my belt and helps keep it from slipping down in the back. Pouches -- I added some velcro behind the pouch and on the bund to keep them from flopping around. Belt and Detonator -- I used velcro to affix the det to the back of the belt. Of all the mods I added, this is the one I'd probably do differently. The velcro makes it difficult to slide the det on the back of the belt and, although it's not going anywhere, it's also a pain to get on. Boot Holster -- Probably one of the most common issues is keeping your boot up when you've got a pistol in the holster. Try this -- before you rivet the holster onto your boot, sew an elastic boot blouser to the vinyl. This will help anchor it in position to your leg and prevent the dreaded boot droop! And that's it! Hopefully this will be helpful and useful for all you scouts out there. I realize some of this may be overkill, but you can take what you need, and leave the rest. Thanks and keep trooping! Chopper

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019CVC8TI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B9pIAbPZCYEMT This is the boot that I used as a base. Not super expensive, fits true to size, and the sole is the right color for a scout boot.

Yep, mine is similar to Mickey's. Attaches to a little tab of Velcro on the back of my flak vest.

That's correct. Here's a photo of how it was rigged on the original helmet that RS Props acquired. I used hot glue to adhere mine to the inside, so I could remove and adjust it without too much trouble in the future if needed.

Also, here's a better photo of the original helmet for you to use re: sticker grey vs snout grey.

Oh right. Yes, if I recall, most of the RS decals are waterslide, but the barcode should stick with just a bit of pressure. Lightly set it on the helmet, so that it's properly aligned, then press firmly on the black barcode bars once you're sure it's in the proper place. You can go over it vertically with the end of a paperback book, or something else that's reasonably stiff, but won't mark or marr the paint job. The black barcode should remain once you pull off the clear part.

If you look at this photo from the original armor below, you can see that the bolt and snout are close, even if they're not exactly the same color. Based on the photo, the nose does look slightly darker than the bolts. When I painted my rig, I used Testors Model Master Navy Aggressor Gray. I'm not sure what the distribution of Testors is in the EU though? Are you able to get it in Germany? https://www.amazon.c...p/dp/B004QPIA8O

Hey, what's up? There are several options out there. Look no further than the ultimate scout blaster comparison thread and see what best suits your needs! http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18225

That's cucblack/kriptontop. Some folks had issues with him on here a while back. I got my bund/vest soft goods from him last year and they arrived in about 5 weeks. Fit was dead on. Just make sure you spring for FedEx shipping.

Hah, sorry Aaron. I couldn't remember who it was from on BSN. The only difference between your set up and mine is that I also velcroed the top and bottom elastic tank straps to the center as well. Definitely secure for trooping. That sucker isn't going anywhere!

If I can offer some insight from my build -- Since there's no greeblie on the forearms, I'm guessing you mean the bicep greeblie Here's a photo from a set of screen used armor: While I used the same 1/2" elastic to visually simulate the attachment method used on screen, a number of us further secured the back tank using velcro attached to the inside of the tank. My armor is at home, so I can't take a photo, but here's an example that another trooper displayed elsewhere on BSN.

I had similar issues when I was working on my TD. Have you tried Krylon fusion? I also prepped the cabling by giving it a wipe down with a little acetone and then let it dry.

Great work NCwerewolf! Thanks so much for taking the time to add this to the thread!

Our ART is now on the books -- Old Line Garrison 29th Advanced Recon Team Point of Contact: Corey DiPietro (Chopper)

I've got a running thread comparing the currently available holdout blasters. I'd be happy to add your assessment once it arrives. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18225

My condolences. Rip Jim.

It's a compromise, but you might have more success with getting imperial boots or a similar costume footwear manufacturer to make a similar style sneaker with the requisite features.