Chopper

I'd go with the thinner 1.3mm cow suede. The other stuff is 2.5mm, which is too thick. We usually use pig suede, so, if you can, it might be worth taking a look at it if they have some in stock.

If you're in Western Australia, I'm guessing you're around Perth? Have you tried checking out this place or calling them up to see if they might have any recommendations? https://www.leatherdirect.com.au/category/suedes

There is some size information in this post:

Mr. Paul: https://www.mrpaulsshoretrooperbuild.co.uk/about/ Nico helmet: https://www.etsy.com/listing/864903122/rogue-one-shoretrooper-helmet

I can't totally see from the photos, but did you add the reinforcement strips on the inside of the helmet?

The neck seal is an optional accessory. It is not required for clearance. It looks like it should be fine, based on the photos. Neck Seal Black fabric only; no rubberized or leather parts. Trapunto-quilted ribbing. Conceals the entire neck. Must be worn under the collar of the undersuit. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Neck seal has a velcro closure. Closure is no wider than .5 inches (12mm).

In the ear canal or over and obscuring the ear holes?

Agreed you want a glue that's specifically designed to bond plastic, not metal.

Yeah, E6000 will leave you with pieces of a helmet and that's not going to cut it. You need a permanent bond. I recommend Devcon Plastic Weld for securing the reinforcement strips. https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-22045-Plastic-Welder-Dev-Tube/dp/B003NUGL9S

Dennis is correct. You want a chemical bond that joins the reinforced plastic to the chest plate. A chemical bond, like with abs glue or plastic weld will have some flex. CA glue is strong but rigid and brittle. It does not "weld" the plastic reinforcement to the armor.

Yes, use a heat gun to heat the strips (away from the helmet), then once the straps are hot enough to be flexy, press them into place. Once they cool, they'll keep their shape and you can glue them in. You should have strips reinforcing along the entire seam line. There should be no gaps showing though, or else you risk seam cracking.

Did you keep the bits you trimmed? You're going to have to glue plastic bracing on the inside to support the helmet either way. Once you have the interior braces in place, you can make ABS paste out of the scrap plastic and fill in the gaps. Any other finishing can be done with spot putty. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

Yeah, keep in mind that that AI generated answers are not necessarily going to be accurate. Certainly not to the level of nuance that comes with some aspects of CRL interpretation. Glad you reached out.

The EFX helmet is approvable. For the Mando scout they used the EFX helmet on screen, so it's the most accurate for that particular costume. Most people don't tend to wear it due to limited availability and the fact that it's made of fiberglass and therefore heavier than the ABS helmets out there. It's also somewhat of a collectors item, so it seems to fetch a decent price on the secondary market.

The circle looking thing on the handle.

Put some adhesive backed black velcro on the capacitor part on the inside of the handle, and some white velcro on the inside of the holster. Also fairly easily removable if you want to ditch using it. Other people have used magnets, but that's a bit more involved.

Take a photo from the front, as I can't see the inside portion of the vest sleeve.

Ears look fine

As far as I know, there's no place that fits the criteria for the bag "out of the box". The one I used for the CRL was modified from a base bag that I found, of all places, at Urban Outfitters. It was on clearance, so I don't believe it's available anymore. I replaced the straps with cotton webbing and affixed them with chicago screws. You're looking for a black nylon or other "shiny" material bag with a single zip on top that generally fits the specified dimensions. This one may work, if you're able to mod it: https://losangelesapparel.net/products/rnb540-nylon-pack-cloth-gym-bag?variant=32495735210046 You'd need to remove the existing straps and either replace or paint the white zipper.

Small circular velcro tabs are another option, if you are having issues with keeping the front visor closed:

I'm not totally sure what you mean, but if it can't be seen then that's a personal preference.

I can tell you is that on my own ROTJ scout boots, the velcro is 1", but the stitching that shows on the outside is about 20mm. I don't know how many GMLs are going to ask you to put a ruler on the boot velcro for basic clearance, but I'd check with them if you're unsure.

You might be able to get the velcro moved over to give you a bit more room. Otherwise, you will need a new bund.

The lower edge of the butt flap should approximately be at the green line.