Chopper

The two different shades in your photo should not be an issue.

If that is RS armor, and it looks like it is, then they use more of a cream colored plastic. From what I know of their armor and from what I see in the photo, your armor looks normal.

Hi, welcome back to the world of the legion. Re: photos, we don't have infinite storage space on the site, so you'll need to use external photo hosting. See this thread for more info: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/

Hiya, so your boots look pretty good overall. I do want to point out this small detail -- there shouldn't be a square stitched at the top of the velcro. As for how to fix it, you might be able to unpick the square and use a hair dryer to get the indent out.

You should be in good shape with the choices you've made. Let us know if you have questions about fit and rigging up your gear.

The neck seal is optional and the dip in the front is not a problem.

There is no exact measurement, but it should be close to that edge, yes. Doing so should make it look like the reference photo.

Check these two photos from our Scoutopedia, below. The slits need to be just long enough and just wide enough to fit the 1.5" strapping. Beyond that, there are no specific measurements given.

Congrats on your approval. Well done.

Any additions of that nature are totally optional. Other tips are here:

Yes. And for the bund.

I suggest that you focus primarily on getting basic clearance and worry about the Level 2 stuff once you're approved. For most scouts the cod is attached to the flak vest or flight suit with velcro. The velcro on the bund should attach to the flak vest. This keeps it from sagging.

I would not get that Kelodon one in the first link.

No they do not. The imperial boots cod's that I've seen attach with a strap around your waist. This is atypical for most scouts, where it is attached to the flak vest, but that's the way they do it. The crotch strap on the cod is typically attached to the back of your flight suit or flak vest.

That part of the CRL is intended as a catch on people wearing massively oversized gloves. If you are wearing properly sized wampa wear gloves, then they will not need any modifications.

Troopers have varying skill levels and appetite to make their own goods and that's okay. If you're looking for vendors that pathfinders have used in the past, go here: https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/#comment-171429 https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/forum/156-vendor-sales/ KriptonTop is a common go-to for soft goods.

Read this post about the riding patches pattern: The only additional recommendation I would make is to round the top corners of the riding patches, vs a hard 90 degree edge.

Aside from you what you already mentioned, I think you should be good to go.

Here:

Looks good.

A bit too much. Knock the weathering down slightly.

Yellowing is a problem for most white plastics and how much yellowing occurs can vary widely by plastic type and specific batch formulation and storage conditions. With painting, I've found that clear coats tend to yellow more than uncoated white paint, so clear coating armor would likely not be much help.

When it comes to paint it's usually the clear coat that starts yellowing. I typically tell folks not to clear coat for that very reason. I've never used that particular type of Rusto paint before, but I also wonder if the epoxy aspect of the paint might be part of the issue. Unfortunately, short of sanding and repainting, there's no magic method to remove the yellowing from either paint or clear coats.

Looks good.

If it's attached properly, that's not usually an issue. I know that some folks have used fusible web to help position and place the riding patches prior to sewing, but most people just open the leg and use lots and lots of pins.