stasz

Great Lakes Garrison ART is live! We are the MI.S.T. (Michigan Scout Team) ...which jives nicely with our TK Fire Team, the MI.S.FI.TS.

Yeah, the armor looks like SC with the older knee sculpt. That "holster" though... You can get one a la carte from SC. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I got nothin'. Not a scout's though...

I'd say if you want it, go for it! It's not something that would impact your approval. I suppose a CO might question it at a Canon event (in the same way you can't carry a sniper rifle at a Canon event) but honestly even that's unlikely. icomm are a lot more than a basic aker setup too, but it's your loot, Trooper! Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I have a 10 (or 12) watt Aker. Can't remember off the top of my head and I use a Radio Shack headworn mic. I run the mic cable under my collar flap, vest, and it comes out just under the right edge of my chest armor and ducks right into the pouch where the speaker suits very nicely. The mic is a little more sturdy than the wire frame type that is included with the aker. The icomm set up is cool, but it's worth noting that Scouts didn't have the TK style static burst before speaking. Some troops don't use anything at all, but I like the the light natural distortion the amp gives, and people always get a kick out of it when they hear your voice a little more "robot-y" for lack of a better term.

Ooooooh yes...

There are also a couple threads specifically building the WTF Kids's scout, though they don't go as in depth as the one 007 linked.

Looking sharp! I really like the way you used a V-notch on the vinyl toe cap that covers much more of the body of the boot. After a year and a half of trooping, I'm getting some gap in my boot above the dogbone and your method would keep it much more discreet until repairs can be made.

To me, the main issues with motorcycle suits are: Availability Cost Zippers and patches There are definitely some that have come (and gone) that look good and work and can be approved. They'll typically still need the same mods as coveralls: suede riding patches and mud flap, mandarin (flap closure) collar, extraneous pockets and zippers removed... Given the cost of most of these suits vs coveralls and still requiring a fair amount of work, coveralls are easier to get, cheaper, and also can be cooler. That being said, the bulkiness can be an issue and I actually took my RedKap coveralls in considerably - arms, legs, everything - to achieve a more form fitting look. Short answer: if it hits the marks of the crl, you can absolutely use a motorcycle suit. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

As far as the snout greeblie it's definitely a major upgrade from the one a couple years ago! Looks good. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I originally got the XL which fit comfortably, but seemed a little long so I got a pair of the L which are snug and shorter. I ended up keeping them both and wear the L in winter as they're tighter and warmer... My hand measures 9.5"/24cm. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

If this helps, on the left is an L, XL on the right: And across the palm of an XL: Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

I kicked my build off with the boots. Having had no prior experience doing anything like this, it was a great way to ease into it. The tutorial in the boot forum is great, and it was fairly easy and a big confidence boost to start tackling the harder (and more expensive) parts. There's no "right way", but doing the soft parts first is a nice option especially if you have to save up some loot for the armor/helmet."

As long as it doesn't alter the exterior of the costume, there should be no issues adding internal "support systems". Shoot, I'd put a fountain pop machine in mine if there was room

THAT'S where I've seen that before!

And in hindsight, post should be titled "Production Made Costume Pics"... D'oh!

In looking at them again, that profile is the side view of the picture below it (though the image is flipped). You can see the strapped on holster peeking out behind the inset Kashyyyk picture...

A friend from the U.K. sent me an awesome gift: the DeAgostini SW helmet issue featuring the Scout. In addition to a cool mini helmet, it comes with a magazine that has a few pics we don't see very often, and one I've never seen before. No earth shattering revelations, but I thought you all might like to see these... Here's the issue: This was a costume test i believe. I love the thigh armor. Wish they would've kept it: This is interesting for the pouch spacing and clearly shows again that they're attached to the bund by tabs. I was surprised to see the placement of the elastic "thong" a little further up the end of the cod. This profile pic is the one I had not seen. I'm guessing another costume test, but I suppose it could be from the assembly on the Death Star. Here again, pouch spacing: they line up with the outside edge of the chest armor. And no top strap on the knee armor: We've seen this costume test before (strapped on holster) but it also shows again the two part cod/bund, and that thong strap a bit further up the cod: Oh, and this is the rad little bucket There are also multiple views of a helmet. By the wear, I believe it's the same one that traveled on the concert tour. I can post pics of that as well if anyone would like. Like I said, nothing earth shattering but wanted to share these with everyone especially since you can't really get this book in the States...

Good looking out, Ben!

Some troopers glue it and use a cut off, "cosmetic" rivet head, as that has to be there. A tried and true method can be found in PandaTroopers build thread where you make a plastic L bracket that rivets to the inside of the back armor and extends through a slot you cut so it sticks out of the back and the tank can sort of sit on - and be riveted to - that bracket. I apologize if the description is clunky. It's very well detailed in Panda's thread which is pinned at the top of this Armor forum. Depending on the thickness of the material you use for the bracket, you may need a longer rivet than is used elsewhere.

Should be able to find them at any hardware. I've always had luck at the mom n' pop type stores with the wall fill of little bins of screws, but I'm sure Home Depot or Ace would have them as well.

If you have a chance, sure. Love to check out the new snout greeblie! We were just discussing bolt covers in a recent thread. You can actually use elevator bolts, or try to acquire some 3M speedglass bolts. That's what was originally used. Someone had access to the whole headband a while back, but I think just the bolts can be found online. I'm sorry I don't have a definite source handy.

Yep, short of the real 3M Speedglas bolts you can use elevator bolts, and a lock nut on the inside:

Soon as we lock down the name I'll set up the group. Yessir, definitely will add you guys!

Great Lakes Garrison ART is a go! We're running a poll through next week to choose our name. Will update with results.