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Posts
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Everything posted by stasz
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Just heard back from HFX. They recommend this: Available here: http://caglue.com
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Looking good! As has been said, just a little tweaking and tidying up. I notice a little bunchy-ness in your sleeves. I had a major issue with that and ended up taking my sleeves in a bit. It's nothing that would hold up approval, but if it bugged you, it's fixable.
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I probably charge mine once every 4-6 weeks or so. Depends on how often I'm trooping, but as long as you remember to turn it off when you put it away, a charge should last several troops.
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Welcome, Scott! If you haven't, stop by and introduce yourself on the Timberline Garrison forums as well. They serve the Empire in the Great State of Idaho: http://www.idaho501st.com
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When you start looking beyond our borders though, it never hurts to pop on and ask if you're unsure of something.
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I'm confident that we're a tight knit group here, and good people. Makers are vetted, and Troopers selling gear are often doing it to upgrade. Buyer Beware always, but I don't personally know of any trade forum issues since I've been around.
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One of the really cool things about the Scout is that it's really flexible for different body types, since the hard armor is spread out. Basic sewing skills will get you through modding coveralls into an approveable flight suit. That was the toughest part for me. Basically learning to sew (with a little help from my mum). The hard armor shouldn't require all that much modification, aside from attaching strapping. Maybe a little bending or "opening" a bit, but nothing difficult.
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Haha! Typing in these scout gloves ain't easy...
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I did my boot build first, then picked away at soft parts while I saved up for armor. It was a pretty natural progression and helped me build up my confidence before tackling all the awesome parts There's not really a right or suggested order, but that worked well for me. Time and budget allowances will likely dictate what one can do, and when...
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Welcome, Nick! It looks like Timberline Garrison in your neck of the woods. They can be found here, with a link to their forum at the top: http://www.idaho501st.com You're on point regarding armor. SC is solid stuff, and a huge selling point is it's really accessible and their customer service is top notch. There are other very good armors and buckets out there with varying degrees of availability/time frame/cost etc. There is much info to be had in the respective forums on each armor component. KS or Altmann are the go to these days for the large dome crowd. Honestly, you said the rest: read, research, patience... And don't hesitate to ask questions. We're here to help!
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I shot a message to HFX on Facebook to see what they recommend. I'll post up soon as I hear back from them. I've used e6k on foam board with success. CA glue will most likely react with the foam.
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*edited wth a better chart.
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I've only seen hfx in person a couple times, but isn't it pretty dense, like non-porous? I'd think E6000 would work. I have this handy chart which helps from time to time:
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Looking for input from our short and tall TB's
stasz replied to KaiserW's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout HQ
W.T.F. on fb. He's got a good, helpful crew there. -
Looking for input from our short and tall TB's
stasz replied to KaiserW's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout HQ
As for 6'4, we have a few scouts who moonlight as Vader and Wookiees so you'll be fine -
Looking for input from our short and tall TB's
stasz replied to KaiserW's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout HQ
One of the things you might run into in trimming down adult armor is losing shape and detail especially in the knees, forearms, and biceps. They're actually not all that big even in adult armor and if you trim too much away, it could end up looking way off. I have heard tell of smaller adults even using WTF armor. That's one of the neat things about the Scout... It's very friendly to lots of body types when compared to a regular Stormtrooper. -
I'm honored to have been asked to help out and will certainly do so to the best of my ability! Scouts out front!
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This is the one I was thinking of. It's from Winter's WIP I remember thinking these were pretty sweet. Here's the thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=13231
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Yep. Marine grade has this soft "foam-like" -for lack of a better description - backing to it that helps keep the boot stove pipes up and gives it some durability. JoAnn carries it for sure. I would think HL would be similar. If it's Marine Grade, that's the stuff.
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Congrats, Retro! Killer, killer build.
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I think I see. You're talking about switching the holster once you get new boots, and wondering if you need rivets to attach to the IB's. Sorry! Misunderstood. Yes, as 007 said, rivets always. But it's no big chore to drill them out and be able to switch to your new boots.
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So a darling little girl at a troop today thought I would like her autograph on one of my pouches. With a Sharpie... I was kicking around the idea of going off-white anyway, so I was thinking about trying to get the marker out hopefully all the way, and then Dyeing the pouches and straps with coffee or tea or something like that. Has anyone had any success going off white this way, or is it more practical to just make new ones?
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Rivets for the holster, yes. I assume you're talking about the ones under the dogbone. As they're not visible and just a method of securing the "stovepipe" of the boot, they shouldn't have any bearing on approval. That being said, it IS a really effective way to attach that part of the boot.
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Retrofire up there stealing my lines Agreed with all the above.
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Good list. Don't forget washers for your rivets. 3M makes this sand paper that's like... rubbery? It's sheets, but you can roll it up, fold it, and it doesn't crack and split like regular sand paper. I found it very helpful: I also recently discovered that E6000 comes in Black or white, in addition to clear. I didn't have a particular use for white during my Scout build, but I did get black for my TIE. Just fyi. If you have a Harbor Freight store near you, you can get a decent rotary tool kit with all the attachments and the what-nots for way less than a Dremel©®™.