stasz

Scouts didn't have the static burst that the icomm provides, but it's not disallowed. A lot of us use an Aker amp and mic. No reason you couldn't use the icomm though as amp systems aren't subject to the approval process. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Nice trick on the chin cup! Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

What those are is actually called an elevator bolt. It's a flat headed bolt with a square top to the shank to keep them from spinning: Very similar to the Original 3M speedglas bolts, but metal, obviously, and the shank is longer. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

If the color matches I don't see why that would be a problem. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Are they raw metal bolts? You could probably scuff sand them with a high grit and then spray paint primer grey. The color should match the grey on the snout. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

If you have a steady hand, carefully use an exact-o knife to score around the sticker, making multiple passes. Don't try to jam the blade through and cut it out in one shot. Or you could use a small drill bit, make holes all around the border of the sticker, and then "connect the dots" with the exact-o. This method would require more cleanup around the edge of the ear hole though. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Nice bucket! The inside of the helmet should be painted a flat black, and once the ear holes are cut out nothing is used to cover the holes. Between the black interior and the balaclava your head is hidden inside. You can use the stickers as a guide for where to cut. I suggest painting the inside before cutting out the ear holes. Less places to worry about masking. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

It's always better to ask a question than make an expensive mistake! And it sounds like you've got a good eye for the costume already. You mentioned you were looking at some Altmann's gear. You'll be in good hands there. If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask! Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Drop box straps look too thin, can't see enough of the belt to really make a call on it, and can't see enough of the flightsuit to tell if it has the riding patches, thigh bands and so on. Looking at it some more, the boots look alright but the stripes on the front of the holster would have to go...

At a minimum, as I buyer I would ask for waaaaay better pictures, laid out off the mannequin in much better lighting. But I don't think it's going too look much better. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Pass. It's tough to really get an idea being on a mannequin and in poor lighting, but a few things jump out right away. 1. The helmet looks misshapen. Maybe a Don Post/Rubies mod that hasn't held it's shape? It's got that characteristic short hash mark on the back left. 2. The back armor and tank look like they're one piece. That style of construction is not approvable. 3. The bicep armor is pretty bad, and the t-bit detail piece has no detail. 4. Thermal det box looks small, and the det tube is definitely too short. 5. Pretty tall heel on the boots. Some of these issues aren't even fixable. Unless it was dirt cheap and you were just going to have fun with it I'd look elsewhere. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

We definitely have some scouts your size. It's totally doable.

There's a fella who's currently working on a great looking set of armor for bigger troopers. Shoot Spike a pm. He knows about it As far as 3D printed armor being approvable, as long as it looks and fits like it should and hits the marks set forth in the CRL, the medium shouldn't matter. It would be akin to disallowing fiberglass armor, or HIPS or ABS. Or Rotocast versus vac formed... It's just got to look and fit right. I don't know that anyone has an approved costume that's fully 3D printed as of yet, but it's certainly not out of the realm of possibility.

The WW flightsuit does NOT include riding patches, mud flap or thigh bands. The only thing it really has going for it is the collar flap closure. Other than that, it needs all the other modifications as would a much cheaper RedKap or Dickie's coverall. I see that they call it a "racing suit" so I don't know if it's tailored differently than their flight suit, but the only difference I see between the two is the pockets.

One of the cool things about the Scout is the "modular" aspect of the costume. It can fit many different body types with little modification, as so much of it can be compensated for in the placement of the armor pieces. With SC, you may have to trim a bit off the shoulder bells, biceps, and forearms as well as the shoulder and underarm areas of the chest/back - though the layered flightsuit/vest/bund do add some girth in this area. The catch with trimming (with the forearms and biceps in particular) if you trim too much you run into detail areas pretty quickly that can't really be cut away. Like, aside from any flash I don't think there's much if anything you can trim on the SC knees. I can't think off the top of my head if any smaller stature adults have gotten the WTF Kid's kit approved. I don't think the helmet would fly, but the rest may be an option. I'm positive there's some discussion on using that kit floating around here somewhere.

The armor kit can get around $500+ USD and helmets vary whatever they're a kit or ready to wear. $200-700. Helmets vary in size as well. I can wear my glasses in my KS, though not comfortably. Tried on a friend's SC and no easy could I wear my glasses.

Welcome, Patrick! Many things can affect the total cost of your project, such as who you choose to purchase parts from, fiberglass vs ABS, how much of it you're able to - or choose to - build yourself vs buying pre-built (in some cases what amounts to custom-built) international shipping if you choose overseas makers, etc. I would say a very ballpark figure to budget for would be around $1200. Have a look around the forums, see what's out there. If you have any questions, holler. That's what we're here for! Edit: I'm talking total cost, not just the armor.

The maker you mentioned is understood to be one with known issues with delivery/communication/refunds, operating under a different name. It's decent stuff - If you get it in a relatively timely fashion or at all. My best advice would be Buyer Beware. Much can be had as good or better quality without the hassle and extra cost of international shipping. And potential headaches...

That looks like the stock photo for the RedKap action back coverall. If that's the case, that is indeed the one most of us use. Or something similar. With the appropriate mods (collar flap, riding patches, mud flap, thigh bands, pockets removed) you'll be golden. You can find more detail on the appropriate mods in the soft armor forum: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showforum=71

100%. Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Firstly, nothing is 501st "Approved". That is to say, the Legion, nor the Pathfinder detachment endorse or "approve" any particular vendor/maker. A particular helmet may be approved as part of a complete costume that meets the minimum requirements set forth in the Costume Reference Library (CRL). NI isn't the most accurate helmet, but it's probably the least documented here on the forums. For a fiberglass bucket, readily available it's a pretty reasonable price.

Nothing is "501st Approved". Nothing. Is. 501st. "Approved". But it can be "approvable"... That being said, there are makers who have armor and/or helmets that have been consistently approved when the entire costume is finished to the speciifications set forth in the Costume Reference Library (CRL).

Hello Dakota! If you're interested in Biker Scout, Kashyyyk Trooper or Shore Trooper armor then this is absolutely where you want to be. Tell us a bit about yourself and what you have in mind. We'll get you pointed in the right direction!

I LOVE my WW gloves. Seriously considering getting another pair just for shoveling snow Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

Haha! This is my go-to collar question pic. I just noticed it's in the link Mickey posted