Pandatrooper

I never used the rivet either, just E6000 and it holds fine. My only thinking is be careful of leaving too much of the laces exposed. If your vinyl is thin, the bumps will show under the vinyl.

No problem,at least I was able to offer a suggestion! One more option: buy some SC knee armor, they already have the return edge and they are sold separately.

Welcome fellow Canuck!

Replace the trigger guard with steel one. Just cut a strip of 1/8" thick steel, bend it in a vice. Drill some holes and install it. Then add your magnets to the holster like on my build.

This would be a lot of work, but you could add a shim to build up the width of the return edge on the sides and top. Back it with another strip of plastic from behind, mix up some ABS paste and fill the gap. Sand and polish. Then add your upper rivet for real by drilling through.

Looks great Paul!

5 foot 8.5 with SC. Fits fine.

Glad its still helpful!

In the Star Wars Costumes: Original trilogy book, there's multiple photos of the screen used helmet. The bars are grey, same color and tone as the other details.

Looking good. For gloves, just find basic no cuff gloves that fit her and not too bulky / hot. See your own gauntlet to simulate the screen used Esprit glove.

My guess is the rivet held the bottom of the tank but whatever held the top got loose and misaligned. The biceps are prone to drooping if they aren't secured.

Tip: trace your dog bone shape to the vinyl. Stitch the line detail BEFORE you cut out the dog bone. This will prevent the vinyl from crinkling.

There's a bunch of 3D model options on various websites, some more accurate than others. You could simply ask to scale it down to 75% and have it 3D printed out. That would be fairly fast and cost effective.

Ideally, sew an elastic loop and slide it over the gap. Mine never move out of place, and I didn't glue them.

Yup, you're over thinking it. just cut the straps so that the hip armor rests on the side of your hips. Many people have them hanging on the side of their thighs and that's too low. The straps can also be fed through the buckles, they don't need to function. Here's my build thread where I construct the belt. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&st=40

Personally, I would leave it as weathering. But if you really want to get rid of it, do not sand it. Based on years of TK experience: - rubbing alcohol on a cotton cloth - if that doesn't remove it use Novus plastic polish - if you need something stronger use car swirl remover - last resort is Meguiars cut polish

The SC kit does not come with all the proper elastics. You should refer to the CRL and Lancer specs for proper sizes and colors of elastics. The undersuit should not be baggy. It should be tailored to fit.

Can someone please clarify what the latest widths if the straps and elastic are and I'll update the diagram? Then we can finally pin this somewhere so people can find it easily. Thanks Terry

Thanks, glad the thread is helpful. My suspenders are sewn to the cummerbund, there's plastic snap clips in the front for easy on / off.

I know there's a few different approaches. The screen accurate way would be to do some black splatter / spray bomb marks like in the film. I would suggest doing this with acrylic and an airbrush so that it can be adjusted or even removed. If you use actual aerosol lacquer, it will be hard to change. You could also do some rubbing with newspapers on the edges of the armor. A lot of TKs do that to dull the white on their armor and to simulate scuff marks. I personally would avoid brown or green dirt. While that's kind of what we would see in the woods, the scouts looked more like they were dirty from exhaust or grease type marks unlike sandtroopers. I did weather my boots slightly with a bit of brown and black to simulate what they would look like after tromping through the woods. Here's some different weathering videos I have done on other costumes for inspuration.

Zoinks!!! This thread almost has 20,000 views!! Glad troopers find it helpful!

Hi Chris. You can get ABS sheets from plastic suppliers. You can also use sheet styrene from hobby stores. The rare earth magnets are from Lee Valley but lots of hardware stores carry them. I haven't had a chance to jump back on the Lone wolf helmet just yet as I have lots of other projects on the go!

Nice research work!

This is how you glue an SC belt with E6000 and never have it fall apart. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=82251

Hey Gino. I think most people have been using scratch built / cast or 3D printed and cast greeblies on the biceps and thermal detonator. I'm not sure what model kit they come from but a lot of us have been getting both greeblies from a seller on eBay. http://m.ebay.com/itm/151387241072?nav=SEARCH The top of the T bit looks pretty accurate. The box isn't quite exact. Would it be helpful if we got some RPF studio scale types to help in the search? They seem to be resourceful in identifying these types of parts. We know the snout greeblie is that 70's Yamaha motorcycle engine.