4505Marcel

I know what you mean mate, really want some info on this bucket

Not sure anyone actually knows for sure bud, I use 1" (25mm) black elastic same as the TK's

Sorry bud but it is easy to tell, you will not have the required seperate from the suit wide neck line to the vest which is an important characteristic and also it wont have the 2" rear velcro closure again very important. Both very easy to see from the back above the back plate at the neck line. With these not in place in the pictured suit, would make it unacceptable for clearance. The CRL states a vest and bund is needed, with this method it goes against the CRL so should not be cleared. The only part which is not obvious once dressed is if the vest is seperate from the bund, which is why for lancer we ask for picrures of all parts (i know lancer is not an issue here, just saying) My advice is not to go this route, its false economy in the long run

I answered this in anouther thread, to have an accurate vest it needs to have a wide neck line and seperate rear 2" velcro closure which, by just having sleeves on the flight suit wouldnt be accurate enough in my eyes. If asked my opinion I would turn a costume made in this way down for clearance

I would say no it cant clear as is not accurate enough, basically for standard clearance in theory a one piece would work, As its only Lancer that requires the parts to be seperate. BUT there is no seperate wide neck line or 2" rear velcro fastening on the vest, so with that in mind id say not its not good enough and wouldnt even make standard clearance.

You could try plastic weld on the belt joins and then mix plastic weld and bits of abs to make a paste to beldn in the seam. Once weathered it will disguise it some. Then just one rivit holding the webbing, use a lighter as mentioned above to seal the rivit hole, and use the bigges backing washer you can find

I attached a magnet into the handle of my hyperfirm and its never moved in my SC armour. Some have also used velcro, which apparently also worked.

Sorry but nope not my cup of tea, but then thats just my opinion . I dont really like the silver lens, definately no pauldron they are for the sandies and the broken visor Mmmm, id hate to see the state of his speeder I personally wouldnt clear the armour with cracks like that if I was a GML. The weathering is pretty cool, id tone down the black lines as they look too man made if you like, but the subtle weathering is spot on, much more real world than the silly black splats Lucas gave the bikers, take away the extras and its a nice biker

Good luck with your build buddy

Id say as long as its not too obvious then it should be fine, one piece is not that difficult to do though. But remember it has to be real suede not faux suede

Good advice, I have no experience on painting soles sorry

I recon the drop boxes could go up a tadge more than 1/2" personally

Yes the sole will need to be painted to be a single tan colour. The cuts in the sole are not strict as long as you have slots in there, it doesnt need to be stacked either, but a upto you if you want to do that. The siera boots came in plain slot and stacked as seen in the mom exhibet pictures in the gallery. But we know there are mistakes in that reference so thats not 100%. I would say go with the 25mm rear closure velcro, its not a big job to un pick and redo, you could get away with just doing the veclro on the outer skin of the boots so the stitch lines look correctly spaced on the out side, no need to do both sides as the inner skin is not seen

Yup defo raise the drop boxes, id also chop down your shoulder bells a touch in length and round off the corners. It maybe also an idea to run a seam up the leg of your flight suit to make the legs less baggy bud, pretty darn good looking scout mate

Got it painted up today despite the snow lol, I made a block to go between the scope mounts to make it look one piece as thats what it looks like to me. Now to start thinking how im going to go about the mold, not sure how this is going to go lol. Never made a mold in my life or poured resin

I use the fabric I use to make my bunds to make the shoulder bridges, mine are made in a large T shape. Basically its a length of the bund material sewn and turned inside out to hide the stitching, with a 25mm piece of webbing approx 100mm long sewn across the top with a popper on each end. I then have a lentgh of black 25mm black webbing sewn to the white fabric. I then have the corresponding popper in the chest and back plate, the T part of my strap poppers on the chest and back holding it together, I then wrap the bund fabric around the join. Its just long enough to go around the join one full wrap. and has a piece of velcro to hold it closed, the black 25mm webbing hangs down for the shoulder bells to popper to Hope that makes sense bud

The only other option would be to mold the inner barrel and muzzel attached to the outer barrel, and cley fill the edges level around the side slots and down to the inner barrel, so once casted you can still see some of the inner barrel but not all the way along if you like which you cant on the hollow one. It would just have to be a level slot as any under cut on te side slots would mean I wont be able to get it out the mold, the whole thing will then be alot stronger. Ive primered the barrel today and hoping to shoot some colour if the weather holds tomorrow

With the solid barrel it could still be dremmeld through the slots, but obviously it wouldnt have the inner barrel then. Id like these to go out hollow really as they would look much better

The gun I hoping will be made in a few bits - Stock, inner barrel, outer barrel, bipod, scope and muzzel I was hoping to have the muzzel and outer barrel in one piece but dont think that will work. I really cant get my head around how on earth im going to mold the barrel hollow??? Think im going to have to quiz the guys on the RPF

Those watching this thread and maybe interested in one of these, do you feel a hollow barrel like the original with an inner barrel, or a solid barrel would be best as that would be stronger? I could put a steel rod in the inner barrel for strength, if I make these hollow

Well I think Im just about there with this now, final filler primer and sand and its going to be painted.

I haven't weighed it, but its fairly heavy. Not sure how the resin copies will compare, as there's a lot if resin needed

If you build the correct game sniper then yes you could use at all events as an EU variant. That's why I opted to build the DC15x pictured above, it's would have to be a scratch build as its not the same as the other BFGs seen carried by the sandies or TKs

Thanks guys, il try and get it painted up this weekend if the weather holds

As Rob said what ever works really mate, I have mine sewn to the bund. Put on your armour get someone to hold on your pouches in the right place and mark it, take off and sew job done