4505Marcel

Agreed I use the heat gun atleast three times, and stretch. Obviously if you live in a hot country then leave them on your car dash board

Liking what I see bro, top job. Get that sucker in for lancer. One thing are you using off white drop box and side straps? If so you will need to dye the pouches to match other wise this wont clear bud. Its all white or all off white no mix and match

Thanks guys, barrel should be back from welding tomorrow, and a lump of ali went of to my brother in law to machine the flash hider, stay tuned

Forgot to say congrats on your clearance bro and I have updated you to PATHFINDER !!!!!

I would tell him that is wrong mate, to save this being said to others. If it over lapped by that much it would show above the join in the sides and would be around the arm pits which would be un comfy I recon., Any size lap is fine as long as it is an over lap bro

Size is really down to how large a trooper it is to fit, some say its 12" across the top. But I dont think it was as wide as that. Best bet is to look at the detail on the belt and guage the width from that bro, Ive slowly been shortening the length to get rid of most of the camel toe on mine

My personal way of attaching the shoulder bells is to hang them much like a TK shoulder bell on a 1" piece of webbing from the armour bridge, velcro is fine, but quite often if the vest is loose then you will end up with a flared bell look like a american footballer. I also use poppers on the bell tops, as velcro ofetn cant take the strain there, see how you get on with it mate, but worth a thought.

Good man get busy lol

There is a few odd marks, and some wood grain can be seen here and there, but Im happy with it. I could sand that for ever and not get it all out, I think its ok as is.

Got the reciever painted up today, it needs to be wet flatted and a matt clear coat added. But I will leave as is for now as it will mold better. If I weather it now all the marks may show in the castings

I will be casting it mate once done, the guns will cost way too much with machined parts, Im lucky and have mates and family who will make a master. Theres no way I can get lots done, resin will be fine, I am planning on having an ali inner barrel for strength. Got the reciever primered today, and the barrel is at my college being welded up and picking it up next week

Ive actually used the more accurate cotton webbing, with the elastic sewn to the elastic inside where it cant be seen, for movement

Paint colour advice, I dont think this rifle is black looking at the top reference picture. I was going to use a very dark coloured ford graphite grey, what do you guys think?

I wonder how hard it is going to be to make a mold of that barrel though, never molded anything in my life so this is going to be fun.

Yeah I can certainly draw something up, at the moment I'm just winging it and using trial and error along with the poor picture reference, but I'm liking it do far

Well here is where I am as of today, inner barrel is ready to be welded to its support plate, the bipod mount is ready to be welded to the outer barrel. Stock has been sanded, and greeblies have been added made out of ABS sheet. I also used one of my old real scopes, Im off to college tomorrow so will be butt licking to get the barrel welded Now use your imagination, these are the plans I have drawn up for the muzzel/ flash hider, Im hoping I can sweet talk the wifes brother into machining this for me.

Easy 501st pass bro, I would however attach your rear drop box straps behind your main belt. It looks like you have the pouch top tabs folded over, they want to go straight up under the chest. And put your forearm armour over the glove and the biceps want to go up a touch, and try and stuff the pouches so they are a little less boxey Ive just thinned mine down as i feel they stuck out to far, but if you want a picky view for say lancer or accuracy. Then the flight suit is too baggy around the legs, just run a stitch up the outer seam and tighten them up. the cummerbund maybe could be tightened up at the back also and the sleeves on the vest are a touch too long. Second strap on the knee armour needs adding, those black clips want to come off the TD, right in theory but these are wrong, so we havent added clips yet to the CRL as we havent nailed it. Thigh straps need tightening up also, all easy fixes bro. All in all your scout is very nice mate, get it in for clearance and troop!!!!!

Just iron the fabric flat mate, it will look loads better. I oron everything flat before I start and then again once the flap is turned inside out. You shouldnt get those crease while building it.

If it turns out ok il cast it mate

Barrel greeblies on, just needs welding up now..... Also added a micro switch before I glued the stock together just incase I decide to add a blast core later on

Soles look good mate, the vynil looking at the picture doesnt need to come so far around the sides and I would have a left a little more over the laces, but thats just how I do it

They used to sell it just by the hide not by the foot which is a pain now, but yes thats the right stuff

If I can get hold of a tig set I will, if not I work part time at the college and they have a welding department so il pop it in to them

Ive decided to change the barrel a little, to give it a much better look. Ive cut a section out of a 50mm tube and re drilled the holes. I think it gives it a more made for purpose look rather than a off the shelf item if you like. Still need to get it welded on and then start the top details on the barrell, but what do you think?

Rivits most certainly bro with backing washers, the top of the boots is fine just hemmed over, and no nothing is needed to strengthen the boots in my opinion. I have had my boots for 4 years and the only thing is they have sagged by about 12mm as the boot natuarally creased as I kneel ect. All foot wear will crease as we know if you make them too rigid by doubling up I fear they may end up looking rigid like welly boots