Chef

As with everything for my Scout, I'm always changing bits to try and get it as accurate as I can... It's an obsession I'm sure. I'll be checking in to Scout Details Anonymous pretty soon! As we all know and love, here are the original boots. Well, here are my latest boots. After getting hold of a very old and expensive Singer Cobbling machine, we've been able to make the boots in the same way as the originals by physically stitching the outer cover to the base boots, so there's no chance of these babies falling apart! The toe cap is stitched to the boot and the cover strip glued over the stitching. The upright is then stitched to the base boot and the dog bone is then stitched over the join. There's some glue under the top cap and the dog bone to aid the longevity of the boot, that I'm pretty certain wasn't used on the originals, but then I expect these to stay together for a few years, rather than just a filming session! Still not 100% happy with the base boot, but in the absence of the original Sierra's I can only work with what I've got. (still working on that bit!). Anyway... pretty pleased with them so far. When I manage to source a decent sole, I'll make some more out of real leather too, rather than vinyl.

That's not the vest, that's the undersuit. The line of the flak vest goes below the armour neck line and you can't see it.

These might help.

Odd that it should split there... If the seam is going to split, its normally right on the edges, so around the rim of the neck, or at the front of the bucket. I can only think of a couple of situations that may cause that. A: it's either been squashed/twisted a bit laterally, but then you'd expect to see similar cracks along other parts of the seam. B: The join underneath is a bit weak and not filled properly, and when it's been baked to cure the paint (which I assume they'll do), the join has moved and split the paint/filler as a result. The only way to repair that is to 'v' out the crack, refill it and then repaint the bucket. Easy in terms of skill... Not so easy in terms of time/effort. They are an absolute pain to do, just in terms of time. I did have this discussion with them back in 2014 at our Annual Ball... They take forever!

Has anyone actually got any pictures of the 'damage'.... Just out of curiosity.

HIPS should be fine with bondo/filler. Just remember to key the surface first before applying it. Whilst most of this might not pertain to your CB bucket (having never seen one). Check out my very rough tutorial on 5 part helmets. http://kgbairsoft.com/wordpress/?page_id=122 Scroll down about half way.

Maybe you could contact the vendor? Each particular lid has it's own building idiosyncrasies. So unless someone else has made one, he's going to be your best port of call.

Just not in public yo!

The scope used on the DLT-20a and most of the others such as the Scout pistol and the Rebel Blaster was the Single-Point scope. The E-11 one was an M38 (might be wrong on the designation) Tank Sight. Not a 'scope' at all, but a reflex sight and the pre-cursor to the red-dot sights we know today. The difference being that it was not see through at all like the modern ones... They are just a reticle that super-imposes a red dot in your field of vision as you essentially look 'past' it. If you look 'at' it, like you would a telescopic sight, then you wouldn't see anything, just a black nothing.... The computer sprite version in the game for the DLT-19x is completely fictional. It does look to have the rear end of the Single-Point, which is a nice touch. But the front and mount are made up.

It's actually more likely to be a crack. No doubt the armour has been bent laterally as part of filming and cracked at the weak spot of the two indents on the chest, the small notch at the bottom and the indent between the verticals on the top. You can see that it's not 'straight', and if it was a two half join it would have split nicely along the seam as that is the natural weak spot, and most likely cracked along its full length, and not just a small section of it. Well done on your clearance Dan.

Some plastics have a really thin clear covering over, rather like cling film. This is a protective covering and needs to be peeled off. If it's anything else.... Then I am at a loss.

looking tidy there Neil

Velcro is pretty sturdy stuff. You could just punch a hole through it, feed the zip tie through the hole and then lock it off. I am going to have my zip ties permanently attached to the shoulder bridges because I can anchor it around the connection strap but with a patch of velcro that goes under the shoulder bell, rather than permanently attaching the tie to the bell. Just because it's easier for me to get kitted up this way, not because of any form of voodoo.

Welcome aboard Lee. I've replied on FaceAche for you.

Morning Adam, Welcome from a fellow Brit (although I'm way down west).

I seriously need to re-do that tutorial. It's a bit shady at best I've got some full builds coming up, so I'll try to remember to take some pictures as I go along and update it to something a bit more comprehensive.

Re-shaping armour is a bit of a precise business. Get it right and everything is rosy. Get it slightly wrong and you're looking at new armour because you will screw it up beyond redemption. If it's not 'bad', leave it well alone. If it is... Speak to Jeff, he'll no doubt see you straight.

There shouldn't be any need to paint the armour. You'll be good as is.

Not much to say other that well done... I'd possibly up the drop boxes just a tiny smidgeon. The back straps on the drop boxes need to go nearer to the TD than the end of the belt itself. And the biceps as mentioned. Both shouldn't be a problem at basic clearance, but I would take issue with them WHEN (not if... you hear me!) you submit for Lancer.

This has been done, and that singular correction has been made. The CRL's over on the main 501st site have not been editable by ourselves here, although I think this is soon to change. The discrepancies have been noted to the 501st Admins a long time ago, but I can only assume that they are so swamped under that they have not gotten to them on the list. Thus far we have had no control over that. I think the LMO team (over on the 501st main section) is implementing a new era of change in which the DL's will have a much larger control over the CRL's themselves. Brushing up on the CRL's both standard and Lancer is already on our list of things to do in 2016. No doubt the Lancer spec will get some edits/additions this year, as these are currently being discussed but they will be announced.

Just paint it silver...

Good evening Ladies and Gents, For 2016, with the continued expansion of our membership and the increasing information and detail concerning our favourite Imperial Armour, we have decided that we need to expand the armoury team a little. The purpose of the new team will be assist each and every one of you to improve your costumes should you feel the need. They will be here to answer questions, give guidance and offer honest critique for any that require it. The Team have been chosen from amongst the members here who have shown a passion for the costume and the detail contained within, a deep regard for the Scout community and a respect garnered from that very same community. We've also tried to cover a reasonable amount of the global time zones with the team to try and allow each and every one of us to be as 'on hand' as possible. So without further ado... Please welcome to the team, and in no particular order. Strider - Constantin (German Garrison) Stroker - Tim (Diamond Garrison) Dart - Andry (Canadian Garrison) Stasz - John (Great Lakes Garrison) Mandalorean - Andy (UK Garrison) These guys are here for you... Use them! (they'll get their forum tags in due course). Welcome aboard chaps!

You see.... this is the first Test for being a Pathfinder. Working out which bits on the CRL on the 501st site are incorrect. Well done. You've passed the first test on your way to becoming a Scout!

When you put the calf part of the boot on, you'll find that a reasonable majority of the lace area gets covered over. So don't consider doing the dog bone bit yet, as you'll find the shape will probably change. You will always get some of the shape of there base boot showing through, so I'm not sure that adding on another layer of vinyl will actually do all that much for you, it'll hide it a bit, but I think some will still show through... It certainly shouldn't be much of a 'clearance' issue if that is your concern. Just a personal observation, and again I'm not sure it will present an issue at 'clearance', but the cuts in your sole do look very deep, giving them a bit of an 'over-chunky' appearance. Just my view, so don't take it too personally.

To be fair, it's best to aim for Lancer right from the off... It's not actually that much more difficult in the initial stages, but having to go back and potentially correct/replace parts at a later stage can prove to be costly and annoying.