-
Posts
1,925 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
135
Everything posted by Chef
-
paint your knee rivets white too... All the others stay silver. (and if that's all I can find... that's good going!).
-
why thank you.... (your fiver is in the post!! heheheh).
-
There you go... it's one of mine.
-
If you look at the outline on this picture here, you can see that the patch comes out to pretty much the front of the leg (same on the back). It's bigger than you think. The patch is looking fine Amanda, although those pins look mighty nasty.
-
You got a few more pictures of it around the sides... It looks oddly like one of mine, but can't think of one being your side of the pond.
-
You want it to come up high enough that the bottom of the butt flap covers it over, with no gaps.
-
No, not quite.... As the patch comes around, it should not touch the knee plate, so it does need to be a little higher.
-
It's difficult to describe in words.... but I'll have a go. I've even done some diagrams. Lay your flight suit on a flat surface and arrange it so the seams of the inner leg area are flat. It'll be something like this... Then trace a pattern across the inner leg seam, and up the fly area. The inner leg seam should go down to about 3/4 of the way between your crotch and your knee. The patch then curves out from the inner seam to pretty much the front of your leg (imagine a seam down the fronts). It then extends upwards. This will give you 4 patches, which you then need to sew into your suit. Hope this helps.
-
The seam lines are just a question of time and patience. Fill it, sand it, flat it, fill it sand it flat it. Takes a while to get it right. If you gently warm the plastic (not so easy now you've painted it, so you may not want to), you can pull all the bits in and match them up. Likewise, the visor shroud. If you cut back the rear flashing of the visor shroud, so it's more flush, you can pull in the bottoms of the visor and counter the flare. Good effort buddy. Pleased to see you're cracking on with it.
-
Andry beat me to it. If all else fails, lay your suit on a flat surface and trace out a suitable pattern using the suit as a guide. The patch should come about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way down between your crotch and the knee, and extend outwards to the front and rear seam lines (imaginary ones, like you'd have on an ironed pair of trousers). Hope that makes sense.
-
Your pouches should extend from the base of your chest plate to the top of your belt when they are worn. For your height, I'd estimate that to be in the region of around 6". Width wise, for the above they will be around about 5" and the depth of them will be 1.5"-1.75". Obviously that's just a guestimation, and you'll need to work out your initial sizes with the chest and belt in place. Hope this helps.
-
Welcome aboard buddy. Pouches the other way round too bro. Flaps inwards!!!
-
50mm Wide White webbing is what you want buddy. If you can't get any from the bay, drop me a PM. I've got rolls of the stuff.
-
Chest plate for me, but I have had them attached to the bund in the past.
-
From what I know of the various Scout kits... The answer would be no. They are all the same style as the SC boxes. If you wanted to box them off, you could insert a couple of tabs and make a backing plate out of some sheet plastic.
-
I know I am a bit biased towards my UKG family, but that does look neat. Much nicer than one of those lowly TK's.
-
You forgot the spinners, Dylan. And the flip paint job.
-
Elastic Widths For Non-Lancers
Chef replied to scout.trooper's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Armor/Helmet
Sure does Andry... But as Chex says, it's far simpler (and doesn't cost all that much), to get the correct strapping and do it right from the start. At least that way, when you do decide to upgrade, you don't need to go taking bits off and risk potentially damaging your armour in the process. -
There is actually NO evidence to suggest that they are rank markings at all... That's just something that someone has plucked out of thin air as justification as to why on screen some had 6, some had 4 and one was seen with 1. And somehow that seems to have stuck. I'm not convinced myself. My completely untrained and based on 'nothing but opinion' opinion, is that it is supposed to be a vent for what ever systems are contained within the tank hump. Beyond that, there is nothing that I have come across to suggest any differences between any two individual scouts. Someone may be able to educate me.
-
How wide is the shoulder connection?
Chef replied to batninja's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Armor/Helmet
BJ is right about the sizing.... It needs to be as small as you can make within the sizing of your frame and armour restraints, but not much smaller than 1.5" overall. As for the type. It's probably NOT drop box webbing, which is a heavy woven canvas type. The bridges are better made from the same cotton drill material that you make your CUMMERBUND from. As you can see on this picture.... It's pretty thin. The canvas drop box strap webbing would sit far prouder on the shoulder than that. -
Get in.... That's a beauty. I know Rubies ones can be a bit, shall we say 'deformed'. But by the gods that one is up there with the best of them! Only get it if he takes a 0 off the starting price, and you feel like traumatising yourself for a few weeks.
-
How wide is the shoulder connection?
Chef replied to batninja's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Armor/Helmet
Ideally you want the armour sections to butt up together. And then the cover over that be as small as feasibly possible. But we understand that armour types vary in length across this area, and people are not all the same size. Make it as small as you can get away with.