Chef

None that I'm aware of. Last reports were that some of the pulls were suffering a bit of mis-shaping. Whether that has been addressed or not I've no idea.

Yup, they'll be pop rivets and you'll need this cheap tool... http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a4c3c3d7c Easy to do... drill a 4mm hole in the correct place. Pop the rivet through the hole with the shank (the long pointy bit) outwards. Add the backing washer to the rivet head. Place the tool over the shank and squeeze up until it 'pops'. Done. You shouldn't get any stress fractures. The only bits to be aware of are the belt and holster. Because the rivets are going through soft material such as the nylon belt and the vinyl of the boots, you need to add in another square of plastic (plenty included in the kit) after the material to stop the rivet head/washer pulling through the material. so it will be... plastic = nylon belt = plastic = washer (if that makes sense). Better still.... a Picture. On the bits that are just plastic on plastic, you can just add the backing washer.

No, the paint... When painting over an existing paint, unless you use the exact same paint, it can react with the previous paint and cause finny stuff like wrinkles or the such like. And to be fair, it can happen even when you use the same paint. Paint is a fickle creature. It's just something to be mindful of.

Yeah, should be able to.... Just as long as you don't get any funny reactions with the paint.

Yup. I've been using this set up for ages. The idea isn't that new... It is useful, and I've been selling the units too under the iTroop name. There was also another one produced a while back by another UKG member called TrooperCom. But he stopped making it years ago. We're also developing a complete communications system that runs Voice Amplification (probably via an Aker Unit), Static Burst, Radio Chatter as well as internal/external comms all in one unit.

Nope... Never. the potential for bleeding feet is too great!

Fnar Fnar...

Just as a point of note, considering your other thread. If there is going to be an issue of return or refund, I wouldn't do ANYTHING to the helmet at all.... Return it in the condition you received it in. If you start altering it or doing 'work' on it... then you potentially cut off your avenues for recourse as you have 'altered' it from the condition in which it was received.

part of the problem is that you have to get the surface flat... if it isn't, and with the marks still there it won't be, anything you put over it will just show them underneath.

certainly.... any place that deals primarily with GRP will be able to repair it. A standard automotive body shop might not be the best place, so look for either someone who repairs boats, or custom cars with GRP shells. To be fair... If you're OK with painting a helmet and using something like car body filler (Bondo I think you guys call it), using a GRP Filler is exactly the same. But should you be expected to do that??

Difficult to say... Are those cracks detrimental to the integrity of the helmet?? Probably not. Is that what you'd expect from your brand new helmet?? Probably not. Such cracks do happen on GRP (fibreglass) helmets. Mine has a few in the high stress areas, but then it is 7 years old and has been seriously abused. They occur when the laminate has been stressed either via a direct impact, in which case it tends to 'spider' outwards, or flexing in which case it splits, like in the join between the faceplate and visor. A common weak spot. Does it mean your lid is junk... Not in the slightest. GRP is very resilient (they make boats out of the stuff!). Would such cracks early on give me cause for concern... Certainly. You don't know if there are any air bubbles under the gel surface. At the end of the day... It's your purchase and if you're not happy with it then that is up to you to decide whether to take that up with the vendor or not. If such damage has occurred in transit, then it is the responsibility of the "Sender" to deal with that, and claim on their shipping insurance. You are not responsible for such stuff until it gets in your hands. But at the end of the day, EVERYTHING is repairable. GRP is good like that. It's just a question of whether you feel you should be responsible for those repairs or not.

I'd be concerned about the two tone sole and lack of boot cuts. They won't get Lancer as they stand. There are plenty of decent people on these boards who can make boots for a similar price.

Yup, that's a stress crack in the gel coat, caused by that chip that it radiates from. As your helmet has flexed, it's stressed the gel and popped that chip. Gel can be repaired pretty easily. You just need a filler. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Evercoat-105652-.5-Oz-White-Marine-Gel-Coat-Scratch-Patch/21798232 I've never used this stuff, being UK based. But it's what I found your side of the pond. You can always get some white Gel and fill it back in. It's just like a thick 2-part paint. V out the crack with a dremel. (don't go through into the Fibreglass underneath... well, not too much anyway). Fill in with the Gel/Filler. Allow to cure. Sand smooth. It will probably require a re-paint. If it was a pure gel finish (no paint), then you could have just polished the Gel back to white. This sort of thing happens when you either have 'thin' glass behind it, allowing it to flex, or air bubbles under the surface allowing the Gel to break. Gel in itself has ZERO strength. It's like an eggshell. A good protective coat, but very frangible. The GRP behind it gives all the strength. I'll keep me eye on this should you need any assistance.

It'll be taller than the SC, but it won't be anywhere near as big as say a CB.

Everyone assumes they are on the large side... You'll be surprised I think.

Finally got the chance to do a bit more work on these over the past few days. Addressed the 'low dome' issue after studying the dimensions of the screen used helmets. Also deepened out the snout area by a few mil. Roughing out the new dome. all smoothed out. Test pull. deeper snout. (added in some personalisation) Test pull. I won't get chance to build this up for a while yet, but I'd like to think I'm 'nearly there'. Pffft... Who am I kidding... I'll keep on adjusting them ad-infinitum.

If you want to permanently attach the TD, Punch 4 holes in your belt in a square, where you want the TD to sit. Then feed two long cable ties through the belt, around the TD Tube and back through the bottom hole. Tighten and secure. it's possible something like this was done on the original suits... If you look closely in the red circles on this picture, you can just see two changes in light. Whether they are rivets or what ever I've no idea.

The specs call for a single piece belt. How you join it all together is largely moot as it will be the end result that get's judged. It could be stuck together with snot and bum-crack hair for all that it matters, as long as it looks like a single part.

Yeah, just don't take the front as high as the fly. It's covered over by the cod section of the cummerbund anyway.

The three 'free edges' on the butt flap are just cut. There isn't any sewing or doubling over of those edges at all. The thigh patches, yes, feel free to edge them. I use a fine zigzag stitch on mine to keep the edge of the suede neat.

yup, suede side out. Don't worry about trying to hem or edge it. leave it raw.

Yeah, they could work. remember to bring the vinyl down as far to the main sole over the faux stitching as possible, and be mindful that the join down the side ( towards the toe) may cause a visible ridge in your covering. On other type boots, this area is covered over by the Dog Bone, but that wouldn't be the case with these boots as that part sits too far forward.

Brilliant picture Mickey. I've annotated it with a few interesting points. Most we already know, but it's nice to just be able to point them out. We know the shoulder bell strap was a loop just joined in the middle of the bell (on the inside) which is why it's got that 'floating' appearance.

It is tricky.... Certainly not one of my favourite jobs. 1: Make your pattern from the suit. Lay the suit flat and make the patch from the shape of the undersuit. Leave a 10mm overlap on the inner thighs and up the front and rear seams. You should end up with 4 parts. Front/left front/right rear/left rear/right. 2: Sew these four parts together. 3: Pin this patch to your suit, all the way around the outside and up the thigh seams. The thigh seams are important because it stops the patch moving about and the undersuit bunching. The more you pin it, the less likely it is to move. 4: Sew (now I know it's a simple word... but the task is a dog. Use a walking foot, zigzag stitch and the correct leather needle).

Yes, and Yes... I put Velcro at the top of the shoulder bell (not any near the strap) and I have a section on the flak vest which this attaches to, and then I have another bit on the inside of the flak vest AND on the flight suit, so that ALL THREE bits join together.