Dart

Congrats! Lookin' good, Lancer!

So, we really haven't had any access to the original in any meaningful way on this forum. That includes photos of the original armour. All we have to go off is whatever stills or promo shots we have from the film. That said, from what you've mentioned, it sounds about right. If you're concerned about return edges, it's not a bad idea to skim through the Lancer applications to see what others have done, and if you can find a similar kit to yours, that might help guide you. And, of course, you can always ask more questions here. Happy to answer as best as we can.

Don't bother with the boot straps. Those are remnants from the very first action figure and, for whatever reason, they never bothered to fix it. So all Scout action figures have that error.

Nice little vid. How do you find the fit? True to size?

Usually, it's just done to the right boot due to the weight of the holster and blaster. I use an elastic band that goes through a loop on the leg of my jumpsuit to help keep that all up and in place.

Congrats!

Welcome @Jakeputt! Thanks @ferra for all your hard work!

You probably won't fit a helmet in there. Armour might be ok if you take off the hump on the Scout back plate. I use a 25 gallon bin for my scout but it's shaped more like the 50 gallon bin Mickey linked to. A scout will pack nicely in 25-30 gallon bins.

Sad to see ya go, Pete, but congrats Corey!

To Dennis' point above, if you're using a glue gun, be sure to use the high-temperature glue, or you'll have a lens popping out when it gets warm. The other problem of using hot glue is that it could melt your helmet material. Test it on a scrap or something to see how it goes. What I've seen some people do with mandalorian helmets is that they glue in some bolts or some 3d printed thingys that help keep the visor in place. Think along the lines of the clear plastic things that keep your bathroom mirror on the wall.

Wow. First scout there? I'm sure he'll be missed by his family, friends, and garrison. My condolences.

Gaffer tape/hockey tape is probably the closest thing we have here. Can be had in multiple widths suitable for this job.

Apologies for not getting back earlier, but much appreciated @kayelbefor stepping up!

Yes, that's a brand that's available here. You can also try the Duplicolour line of paints as they're automotive grade and should be true to colour. Ideally, if you're painting the helmet to match the armour, you want to see if the plastic is more of a blue or pink shade. You'll know pretty quickly if you do a test spray and comparison. Of course, if you're painting everything, it makes no difference. As for finish, it's documented that the helmets were painted in a glossy white lacquer. To be honest, if it's just the helmet that's being painted, and if you're not sure which paint to get, you can try one that you like, mask off a section and paint a bit of the inside of your chest piece, just to see what it looks like (assuming the armour is all the same colour plastic). If it looks like a good match, then paint the rest. In the end, the quality of the paint job is down to humidity, temperature, curing time, painting technique, etc... so take your time and make sure you do it right or you may have to add some "weathering"...

One option is to get the short boots from Crow Props, then finish them with white leather of your own. The soles are good and the boot structure is good. That it's already white makes things a bit easier.

I've always been a foam guy. Just works with my head shape and stuff. Tried using a hard hat liner but I find them not so comfy. Either way, try some stuff out and see how you feel. I always liked to test it by turning my head rapidly side to side. Ideally, the helmet should slip but should stick on your head firmly. So you can see, and stuff...

I have an extra smoke black shade 3 visor, I think. I'll take a look and see if I do. I got them on Amazon sometime in 2020? @ImperialWalker I'll pm you if I can find it and we can work out the details.

Looks good so far. The only think my eye picks up (and it may just be me or the perspective of it), is the depth of your visor from the side. When compared to the screen-used, it looks a little bit deeper/wider on the side. Otherwise, I think it's coming along nicely. Well done.

True, but I don't have the time/space/supplies to do the deed. If I have some time during the summer I might mold the parts up but I'll see how things go.

Wish I could take credit. I heard about it via the RS Propmasters and they heard of it via some Facebook group. Been looking a loooooooong time for this piece. Good to see it actually existed and wasn't some scratch-made bit.

They're around, but they're not cheap as they're the big 1/6 scale models. I think the cheapest I saw was around $200 USD. Our own @MrPoopie has actually done that, so if anyone has a good 3d resin printer (or knows someone who does), hit him up for the details.

Dimensions: Tie bit: Length: 41mm; Width: a hair over 15 mm; Depth: 6mm Harley bit: Length: 33.5mm; Width: 30mm; Depth with fins: 13.5mm; Depth w/o fins: 8mm Hex size: Width(flat sides): 2.5mm; Depth: 1.5mm Complete T-bit length: 49mm The Tie bit is from the original 1978 MPC Darth Vader TIE Fighter model kit. The Harley bit is from the Tamiya 1/6 Harley Davidson FXE1200 AMF Super Glide, however the sprue that I bought was (apparently) from a Tamiya 1/6 Harley Davidson FLH1200 AMF. From what I can tell by looking at both kits, they have some similar parts, so any of the 1/6 kits that are like these two should have the correct sprue (Sprue C). This is how the Harley bit looks off the sprue. It has these little bits on the sides which we will need to cut off to make it look right... You'll notice that the fins at the bottom edge of the Harley bit are rather tall (5mm). I think for the movie, they were probably trimmed down as I can totally see how they'd get caught on stuff or just snap off. Also, from a molding/casting perspective, those would be a pain to reproduce quickly so trimming them down would make sense to begin with. Fun fact about the Tie bit: it's not universal. There's a left and a right piece that are mirrored/reversed. I did check the Blu-ray image and found the correct one, which is shown in the photos here. I sincerely hope they didn't mess with us and use the other side for the other bicep piece, and given the time crunch that's usual on a movie set, I doubt that would've been practical. You can see the depth of the parts when put together. And how the Harley bit isn't raised or shimmed, but it's the correct height. You can also see just how tall those fins are. Also, you can see how the edge of the Harley bit is curved, not stepped. Just a nice gradual curve from the side to the top, no step into a 90 degree corner at all, anywhere on the piece.

Congrats, bossman!

Depending on the base material (ABS, fiberglass), you might be better off to try and clean off what you've done by gently sanding it back. If you didn't paint it initially, it might be difficult to get the right shade and tone, so I agree with Corey above, maybe feather the edges a bit and make it look like a bit of weathering.

Yeah, a loooooooong time ago, probably around 2005/6, MonCal used to add this as an option.