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MrPoopie's Patrol Trooper Build


MrPoopie
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10 minutes ago, MrPoopie said:

Yup. @BikerScout007 and I are building from my models at the same time. Friendly competition and sharing of resources. 

Yes if only you would stop thwarting me by misnaming the files!  :D

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7 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said:

Yes if only you would stop thwarting me by misnaming the files!  :D

Gotta keep you from winning the race somehow.

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42 minutes ago, MrPoopie said:

Gotta keep you from winning the race somehow.

I think the CR-10 is going to ensure that anyway!

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Play nice you two or I'll ban ya😁 I'm sure both of your armor builds will be amazing!

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Just now, Retrofire said:

Play nice you two or I'll ban ya😁 I'm sure both of your armor builds will be amazing!

But that's why we have these sweet batons. 

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Got a bit of work done today. Lots of painting. Added snaps to the boots to hold the shin armor in place, thanks @Ruthar for many suggestions which I modified to work for my build. Made new dogbone from ABS, my printed versions didn't fit my boots well enough. Installed the heel armor too. Gloves are finished but no picture right now. 

PT work

 

PT work

 

PT work

 

PT work

 

PT work

 

PT work

 

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I would add a little Velcro in places, if the snap comes off its off, velcro allows that to happen and still hold the Armour in place until you sort the snap.

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Started working on the Ab section. Mainly the sides and bund to hold up the waist area as well as the belt. @MrsPoopie made me a bund harness which zips in the front for easy access. The sides, front abs, back plate and belt will all velcro to this to hold everything place and keep it from slipping. I still need to add the pads for the shoulder straps but it's basically complete as it is right now. I also started a test of the new flexible sides printed out of flexible TPU filament. I have to say this stuff is amazing once I got the printer dialed in to be able to print (lots of settings changes). Having rigid sides never seemed like the right choice for this armor. I designed this so that the back ends of each side can be cut down if you're smaller or left intact if you're larger. I'm really pleased with how it's working out so far. I mounted the side details by drilling through the side sections and attaching Chicago Screws to the plates with glue. this way the sides will still flex but the armor plates will stay in place. After my test version I updated the model so the holes are already present (Huzzah!). HOpefully I can get these painted today and start to mount everything for a proper fitting.

 

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That looks really good.  Can't wait to see it painted with the pieces attached. 

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What kind of "ribbing" should I use for the shin strap? The promo photo (left side) looks like it doesn't have any ribbing and the Hot Toys (right side) has a dimpled effect which almost looks like it's just elastic. Neither of these sources have ribbing. I know the ArmoryShop shin strap is horizontal which doesn't really make sense. This armor is closest to the Shoretrooper shin and if ribbing is required then it seems like vertical ribbing would make the most sense.

Any thoughts?

 

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6 hours ago, Hask said:

Thats one of the things that was not completely clear, I prefer vertical myself.

Me as well. I think I'll make my straps vertical and print them in TPU. 

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Another day, another chunk of work.

First set of flexible sides was printed with clear TPU (what I had on hand) and then painted white. It worked out alright and will be perfectly fine wonc eit gets weathered. the second set is printing in white and looks amazing.

Almost finished with the TD. I decided to adjust the model of the right side endcap so that it has the recessed detail area on the end like the Hot Toys figure has. It looks much better and also made it easier to paint since I chopped the model into parts depending on what color they are.

Boot armor is moving along and I decided it as time for a test fitting to make sure things lined up properly. Still need to add more support velcro internally and fix a part that I snapped but they're coming along pretty nicely now. It's odd having so much weight and armor on my legs. I'm only used t o my 2 Scout kits which are super mobile. I guess I won't be bending down to much in these. I'll still be able t o sit which is always fun to do in front on TKs.

 

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Quick update. Finally got more velcro so I could keep working on the waist. I need to trim down the front lip of the sides so it's more flush and add a bit more velcro to the back armor but I'm pretty happy with how it all came together. The back isn't so bad when I'm not twisting and when the chest armor is in place. The biggest takeaway is that it's flexible. 

 

PT-Waist

 

PT-Waist

 

PT-Waist

 

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That flexible TPU for the ab section was ingenious. Where did you get that idea?

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Just now, AradunFF said:

That flexible TPU for the ab section was ingenious. Where did you get that idea?

@BikerScout007 gave me the idea. I was working on a mold for silicone or something flexible and then he gave me the idea to try it in TPU. Worked out really well. Even better on the second round that I printed in white.

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Slow couple of work days (not complaining) so I've been able to get a few things done.

Belt is almost done now. I'll try to explain what I did to make things easier. First I sewed a cloth belt just slightly less wide than the rubber belt but longer so that I had an overlap for fastening. Then I attached 2" velcro the length of the belt with some additional velcro on the end which will overlap. I also added a small section of extra velcro in the center where the cod will attach. The cloth belt was then sewn on the upper edge to the rubber belt using a leather needle. I was going through several layers of cloth and velcro as well as the rubber. Slow sewing work to stay with one of the valleys between the belt ridges so it wasn't noticeable (image 5). I then punched lined up all my boxes and random belt parts and started making holes for the Chicago screws. I made sure to feed the baton holster through before doing this otherwise it would have been a pain to undo a few things to get it on. I was originally going to affix the baton holster with more chicago screws but it's a pretty tight fit and I kind of like that it slides around a little if I need to adjust it just like the larger box on the other side. I modified the large box from a phone case. Removed a couple of straps and added some elastic so it would sit properly. I just need to get out the loctite and make sure none of these Chicago crews come undone before glueing the box tops on (they're just sitting in place for the photo). I'll did test everything with the waist but don't have a photo yet.

This is way more work than it looks like.

 

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You can just see the stitching on the left side.

 

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1 hour ago, Hask said:

Dont forget the loop on the blaster holster if planning on CHipS

Do have a pic?

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Just now, Hask said:

My bad I meant baton holster ( I was painting my blaster when i posted doh )

No problem. Yes, the baton holster has the loop around the belt. 

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More chest and back work. Replaced the back side sections with TPU printed parts so they are able to flex properly and match up better with the chest. INternal shoulder straps are made from black webbing and snaps with matching snap plates and velcro on the back and chest. Replaced the collar with another TPU part. I also added "wings" to the collar so that it stays underneath the chest armor more securely. Reworked the buckles so they had a pass through for the strapping and added the side buckles and straps to the chest. This section closely matches @Ruthar build techniques. Why fix what isn't broken.

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