CatfoodRob Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 I used the red cover I took off the centre square as a spacer between each square ( I know they ain't square ..it's just easy to describe them that way ) . I believe this is what the production crew did , if you look at the photo of the girl opening the bag , you can see the rivets from behind, and the distance between the sewed on strap, and the rivets , is ever so slightly more than the width of the strap , making it over three inches between rivets . I don't personally believe they used a clear switch cover over the centre square , but again , until this bag ends up in a display/ exhibition some where , we will never know . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 One thing becomes obvious for my own bar , looking at the first photo I posted above, I'm pretty happy with my dimensions , but the overhang after the rivet / Chicago screw needs trimming down a couple of mm each end . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKZombie Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 The Child bag assembled, weathering next. ~Christina~ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navajo Bro Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Looking at the blown up screen shot and from what Rob says, I messed around with a larger bar. The first bar I've been doing is 3 1/2" long. Those are in the shots on page 2. That was based on the spacing and size of a normal rank bar This bar is 3 3/4" long. For reference, none of the switches are glued and everything is loose so it's not picture perfect. But it gives a good idea of spacing: Have any of you thought about whether or not it's a black square under the red switches or just lighting? We've been making them both ways based on member's preference: This bar is 4" long. Here is the 4" bar with the rivet holes drilled and the rivets placed in for sizing: With the black: Again, nothing is glued so everything is slightly off centered but you get an idea. I'm thinking the 4" bar is a little better. I'm putting the rivets centered at 5/16" from the edge in these shots. Might go a sixteenth less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Mine Is 4 1/4 long and 1 wide . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenyone Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 To me it does look like red buttons are sitting on a piece of black plastic. I went ahead and cut some out of black ABS with a pocket about .05 deep for the switch/button to sit inside nice and tight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navajo Bro Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 21 minutes ago, greenyone said: To me it does look like red buttons are sitting on a piece of black plastic. I went ahead and cut some out of black ABS with a pocket about .05 deep for the switch/button to sit inside nice and tight. That is beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hask Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Its probably a version of this Sent from my SM-F907B using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenyone Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Fake it til' you make it. Who needs aluminum? Scrap styrene with a shot of silver spray paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fil5117 Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 On 1/22/2020 at 2:35 AM, Navajo Bro said: Also, clearly the screen accurate method is to use the white inside part of the red switch, simply without the red switch part. Two issues with this (for me)... I don't want to waste the switches because they run $2 - $2.50 each and if you use the white part the red part is useless. Second, the switch is not flush on the bottom so using this method of drilling a hole only partially though and gluing it in might not work if you use a regular switch as there will be extra space and not much to grip. Not trying to sound like a negative nelly. I disagree. I believe the centre 'button' is designed to look like a lense cream insert but that would be too small. The centre 'button' appears to be the same size as the red lenses. I reckon the centre button is just a piece of resin, or some such. I like the idea of the nail, but I think it's more counter sunk. On a different note, I believe the D ring is roughly 60cm or 2.25 inches wide and not 50cm or 2 inches, because it is wider than the webbing of the bag - which is 2 inches. I don't think the fasteners for the strap and the attachment for the rank are chicago screws because you see both sides of these and they are flat headed. I suppose this is all to do with 'how far do you want to go'. 50cm / 2 inches D ring has a nice snug fit and chicago screws can be easily removed. Have my bag and belt, just waiting for D rings and push buttons to come from China Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alay Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 they've used EAO 31- line parts for all of their officer badges in the anthology stuff. I don't see why they wouldn't simply use 31- line clear or opaque white button there they probably have hundreds on hand for this sort of stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fil5117 Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 9 minutes ago, Alay said: they've used EAO 31- line parts for all of their officer badges in the anthology stuff. I don't see why they wouldn't simply use 31- line clear or opaque white button there they probably have hundreds on hand for this sort of stuff. I agree with the principle. I don't have any EAO 31 lenses to hand (but I'll look into getting some), but I have the ones I believe they used in ANH. The lense insert is a couple of millimetres smaller. That middle 'button' looks the same size as the lense, so I don't believe it could be the just insert. It also seems to be the height of the lense in the push button surround. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fil5117 Posted January 29, 2020 Share Posted January 29, 2020 Another interesting thing is this appears to be the first time they've included the button surrounding the lense. Previously for every other rank bar I've studied, they've only ever used the lense. So using something different for that centre switch could be just another departure from the norm. If you go back to the Snowtrooper rank example the middle button is clearly smaller than the other two. In the Mandolarian the centre button seems to be similarly sized. That Mandolarian centre button also doesn't appear to have those indents to allow the lense cover to snap firmly in place, the centre button appears to be relatively smooth. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navajo Bro Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 I love to see all the new photos of the rank bar, I don't have the ability to grab those (I'm technologically impaired) so the stuff I'm making is based off and changing with whatever new information comes up! My first comment about the center switch is based on the Snowtrooper bar, which we've all seen and was posted here. That was clearly IMO the white part of the red switch with the cover either left off or fallen off. Those new shots I agree with Phil that the center switch is a white block. The plastic squares I've been using are made to the same size as the red switches. I'm happy to see some new shots of the black part of the red switch too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenyone Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 34 minutes ago, Navajo Bro said: I love to see all the new photos of the rank bar, I don't have the ability to grab those (I'm technologically impaired) so the stuff I'm making is based off and changing with whatever new information comes up! My first comment about the center switch is based on the Snowtrooper bar, which we've all seen and was posted here. That was clearly IMO the white part of the red switch with the cover either left off or fallen off. Those new shots I agree with Phil that the center switch is a white block. The plastic squares I've been using are made to the same size as the red switches. I'm happy to see some new shots of the black part of the red switch too It's silly that we obsess about this stuff.......but I came to the same conclusion. That opaque white light diffuser thing just looked way too small separated from the red lens. From the still images you've all made available here...it also looks like the white center button is slightly taller than the red ones too. When I first mocked mine up I used a small block of .187 inch styrene. It looked a little flat compared to the red ones, so I went back and tried one cut from .25 inch instead. Now it sits just a tad higher than the red buttons...which to my visual interpretation looks more accurate. As far as the D rings go. I just re-used the old weathered/tarnished brass looking ones that were already with the strap that came with my bag. I'm done obsessing over it. This one is in the 'DONE' category for me. Time to throw it over the shoulder and fend off the bag punchers. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrighton Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Here's my finished rank bar. I added a black surround to the lenses and used the whole lens for the center button after spraying it white. Close enough for my manbag! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrighton Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Whilst awaiting customs to let me have the belt I've rustled up a couple of D rings. I used a length of 4mm steel rod which cost under £3/$4 and bent a couple of rings into shape on the vice. As per ref photos I've gone for 60mm rather than 50mm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fil5117 Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 I purchased some EAO 31 series lens and push button switch. They don't look bad, a better match than the Saia Burgess switches I planned to use. The buttons a little bit overkill (you can easily achieve the same affect for less money), but I'm sucker if I think it's a found part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenyone Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 1 hour ago, fil5117 said: I purchased some EAO 31 series lens and push button switch. They don't look bad, a better match than the Saia Burgess switches I planned to use. The buttons a little bit overkill (you can easily achieve the same affect for less money), but I'm sucker if I think it's a found part. I think all that matters is that it's rectangular, red and in the vicinity of being 12.8 x 18.8 mm or (.5 wide by .75 tall for us Yanks) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrighton Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 I now have my manbag 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Navajo Bro Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 I know this isn't an "item" but since most of the bag builds are kinda here just wanted to share a quick add on I did. I have three kids, my son is in wrestling, one daughter on team gymnastics and my other daughter does soccer - so if I'm not trooping I'm usually at some sort of game, competition or meet hahaha! While my bag is in fact a costume prop / table display item, I actually use it more as a legitimate satchel, to carry snacks/lunch, water, phone, chargers, keys etc... while with the kids. One thing I found was it's huge and holds a lot but at the same time has no pockets or pouches for the little things like my glasses, charger, keys or whatever. I added a quick pouch to the back to throw the little stuff in so I don't have to keep digging around for it while sitting in the stands. This is version one, I used random brown denim stuff I had on hand and as soon as I was done my wife told me I better make hers tomorrow (she has her own bag she uses as a purse lol). I machine sewed the pouch itself, and hand sewed it onto the bag. I might change things around in the future but for a quick project I'm happy with it: Used a 9"x7" square: Sewed on some velcro: When done turn it inside out: Placed it inside on the back under the straps: Hand sewed it on, you can hardly tell but it's the rear so it doesn't matter anyway: And done. holds some little stuff, the next pouch I make I might go a little bigger for my wife's: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 As we're obviously now intending to carry this bag at cons as visitors , not part of our costumes...and as everyday carry bags, which is very cool , here's an idea . I fixed a piece of one inch webbing through the two smaller one inch , unused, buckles to create a handle, so the bag can be carried by this handle when not using the shoulder strap . It's a super easy job and makes the bag even more useable in the real world. . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB-6962 Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 This is the P37 large bag that needs to be ordered, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CatfoodRob Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 Yes, for screen accuracy make sure it's large , and in sand colour . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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