Navajo Bro

So glad you liked it! If you ever have any problems or every have anything come off just let me know I'll replace it for you! * so sorry, my other post was about bags I didn't catch you were talking about armor lol. I removed it so I don't clutter up your WIP

I'd definitely offer them up as a set, I know lots of people would want a super accurate bar! No harm in having a few available for people still sourcing the bags. I still make the bags and have them for sale and would probably tell buyers to contact you for an upgraded rank bar hahaha!

Love this! I totally agree about the black base, I was just putting the red squares on black plastic for the look but his seems to be exactly how it really is. And I used the nail head as well, seems to be the closest to the screen used

Awesome thanks! They seem to be the closest I could find, and again these won't be for actual costumes or "proper" display, they'll be beat up set pieces for the larger display but we still want to make them as accurate as possible but also as cost effective as possible hahaha! This was the Mando One we made: I have a Wicket costume on a manakin and want to upgrade the rest of the set with some beat up TB buckets and the "drum" set from ROTJ, stuff like that

I know about all the links for the screen accurate 3mm elevator bolts, as well as the various makers for resin or 3D printed stuff.... my question is what would the actual sizing be for a normal, steel bolt? I am vacuum forming a bunch of project helmets for display, so I don't want to pay a lot for accurate since these are for display and will most likely be beat up and weathered. We did a Mandalorian Pike display with quick and dirty TK buckets we slush molded for a Tatooine themed event display, and are now doing something similar for an Endor themed event display. I have an accurate resin one, and found some steel ones at McMaster-Carr but they are a little larger, just ever so slightly: They are: Low-Strength Steel Square-Neck Elevator Bolt, M6 x 1 mm Thread, 20 mm Long I'm not super knowledgeable on reading the specs, can anyone find on the list below something that would be closer to size: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/elevator-bolts/ I hope this post makes sense, and thanks in advance for any help!

I grabbed a bunch of the authentic surplus right after we collectively began researching and identifying the parts and all of the original bags did have the BOTTOM straps you circled, but I've never seen the top "handle". That is easily removed though. I'm still making them using replica bags (dyed) when people need one and getting the replicas from the same place I got the originals. Those too have the bottom straps (but no handle). So even though there is not screen shot right now, we can at least assume they were there since the actual bags did in fact have them? Hope that helps! https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.466932914243441&type=3

Hey man, you know our Brodustrial page on facebook - check out the photo album we have for Star Wars foam props hahaha! https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=BrodustrialLightAndMagic&set=a.320857718850962 We experimented with some stuff while making props for our buddy's movie and did a EC-17 from an '80s toy blaster. We used expanding foam and it captured enough detail to make a cool looking prop, super lightweight and basically indestructable , lol, but obviously not to the level of "approval". They are a little larger then the "good" replica ones people make now-a-day but we keep them on the table at troops so kids can hold them without any fear of damage. Some guys walk around with them at some of the cons for the same reason. We don't sell them but we made a bunch for fun, I know you got the bag from us remind me of your address and I'll send you one if you want. I believe I have one or two lying around still, maybe you can use if for something like this.

So I finally got around to building an E-22 I'm actually building two, one of our NER guys was cool enough to print me one at cost (thanks DAVE!!) but at the same time some other guys were ordering E-11s from super cool dude Wilson in Singapore who prints in resin (no lines) so I hopped in on their order to save some shipping (don't even ask how much that costs hahaha! But WELL worth it...) I used The Imperial Factory, which is found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheImperialFactory/ We used the open source Sean Fields files and the kit came out fantastic. I did a ton of research here and some other spots, but when all is said and done pretty much everyone just assembles it with no detailed tutorial. It is pretty self explanatory, but some of the small details I had trouble with and took a lot of time contacting other guys who built them for answers. I love making stuff and love doing WIP threads so I figured I'd do one for this. In the past I used photobucket and forums and spend hours making posts with explanations. A few years ago some of my Garrison buddies made a fun facebook page for sharing our builds and costuming fun, and at this point it's just so much easier to upload there. Disclaimer - we (nor I) are not vendors, we don't sell anything and we don't do commissions - it's all about helping each other and new members build stuff while hanging out and having fun. But we really do enjoy hanging out and sharing our hi-jinks while at the same time documenting how we did stuff in hopes of helping others who are seeking some reference Here is my build album for the blaster, as it's almost done (just waiting on stickers for the scope and then I have to do some weathering): https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.588801675389897&type=3 I'll take some final shots and upload on the build album over the next week, but if anyone has questions let me know. If any of the experts here see something I did wrong or can do better please let me know, thanks!!

My wife ordered like every baby Yoda (Child) that was offered, lol, and they started to arrive. She likes the little one: Here is the one I like: Now that he is in my hands I've found he's too cute to punch We also have the Build-a-Bear one but my daughters claimed that hahaha!

I know this isn't an "item" but since most of the bag builds are kinda here just wanted to share a quick add on I did. I have three kids, my son is in wrestling, one daughter on team gymnastics and my other daughter does soccer - so if I'm not trooping I'm usually at some sort of game, competition or meet hahaha! While my bag is in fact a costume prop / table display item, I actually use it more as a legitimate satchel, to carry snacks/lunch, water, phone, chargers, keys etc... while with the kids. One thing I found was it's huge and holds a lot but at the same time has no pockets or pouches for the little things like my glasses, charger, keys or whatever. I added a quick pouch to the back to throw the little stuff in so I don't have to keep digging around for it while sitting in the stands. This is version one, I used random brown denim stuff I had on hand and as soon as I was done my wife told me I better make hers tomorrow (she has her own bag she uses as a purse lol). I machine sewed the pouch itself, and hand sewed it onto the bag. I might change things around in the future but for a quick project I'm happy with it: Used a 9"x7" square: Sewed on some velcro: When done turn it inside out: Placed it inside on the back under the straps: Hand sewed it on, you can hardly tell but it's the rear so it doesn't matter anyway: And done. holds some little stuff, the next pouch I make I might go a little bigger for my wife's:

I love to see all the new photos of the rank bar, I don't have the ability to grab those (I'm technologically impaired) so the stuff I'm making is based off and changing with whatever new information comes up! My first comment about the center switch is based on the Snowtrooper bar, which we've all seen and was posted here. That was clearly IMO the white part of the red switch with the cover either left off or fallen off. Those new shots I agree with Phil that the center switch is a white block. The plastic squares I've been using are made to the same size as the red switches. I'm happy to see some new shots of the black part of the red switch too

That is beautiful!

Looking at the blown up screen shot and from what Rob says, I messed around with a larger bar. The first bar I've been doing is 3 1/2" long. Those are in the shots on page 2. That was based on the spacing and size of a normal rank bar This bar is 3 3/4" long. For reference, none of the switches are glued and everything is loose so it's not picture perfect. But it gives a good idea of spacing: Have any of you thought about whether or not it's a black square under the red switches or just lighting? We've been making them both ways based on member's preference: This bar is 4" long. Here is the 4" bar with the rivet holes drilled and the rivets placed in for sizing: With the black: Again, nothing is glued so everything is slightly off centered but you get an idea. I'm thinking the 4" bar is a little better. I'm putting the rivets centered at 5/16" from the edge in these shots. Might go a sixteenth less.

I like the clear cover, I'm going to check that out Out of curiosity, what length are you making the aluminum bar? Taylor and I are using 3 1/2" long. My Snowie chest plate bar is 3 3/4" long, I went a little shorter than the Snowie bit but honestly with no actual clear cut reference it's all guess work hahaha!

So using the information Andrew found about the nail head for the center switch, I dug out some 1 1/2" aluminum nails I had in the shed. I used the cutting part of the pliers to snip off the head, as it's obviously way too long and I don't want to push it all the way through. Soft aluminum nails are super easy to cut this way, if you can give a firm handshake you can do it lol Just be careful though, it snaps off easy but the top and/or nail part will both fly away. I did it over a box and with my other hand cupping the top. Impossible to photograph by myself but you get the idea: Using a 1/8" bit I drilled into the plastic square just through it and not into the aluminum bar. This way I can toss in some glue and pop the head in. It's not actually holding anything it's all aesthetic. I think this works perfectly and looks great but please feel free to give me some feeback! If anything it might be a tad larger then screen the screen used so I might visit the hardware store and see what else they might have. For now I'm super happy with it Took me about 20 minutes to upgrade the four bags I've made so far, as well as three rank bars for the next set of bags I'll include both a nail and nail head in the parts bags a few of you have asked for. Remember - it's soft and easy to cut but still metal so be careful, the cut edge will be sharp. You can use a file to smooth it out if you want, but for me my nail heads went into the rank bar 30 seconds after being snipped so I didn't really bother. One or two of them were slightly longer then the square though, so instead of going into the aluminum I did in fact file those down. Easy enough, just remember to be careful of the metal shavings as you do it, nothing worse then getting this stuff in your eyes or on your skin if you are not careful hahaha! Also, clearly the screen accurate method is to use the white inside part of the red switch, simply without the red switch part. Two issues with this (for me)... I don't want to waste the switches because they run $2 - $2.50 each and if you use the white part the red part is useless. Second, the switch is not flush on the bottom so using this method of drilling a hole only partially though and gluing it in might not work if you use a regular switch as there will be extra space and not much to grip.

lol no worries glad to help! I used cap rivets on the edges of the bar, and a thick square of ABS plastic for the center white switch. I also used a pencil eraser and paint to make the dot, then weathered it off a little: Cap rivets are here in this photo along with the chicago screws for size reference: Plastic square for center switch: Dot / weathering: (two bags) After it dried I sanded it off a bit: I have no intention of becoming a vendor or continuous maker of these bars, but I did buy the metal rings, screws, cap rivets, bars and switches in bulk because I have about a dozen bags we're making with members here in NJ. I will have some extra hardware and if anyone is really having an issue finding the stuff hit me up, I can sell you the parts for cost plus shipping. I'll have to figure out how much it is but off the top of my head a full set of hardware parts is around $15-20 cost. Here is a breakdown of parts I used and believe you'll need (from first photo in this post, but not assembled) (2) metal rings (2) cap rivets (8) Chicago screws (corrected solid ones) (2) red switches (2) black plastic square for under the red switches (1) white plastic square for middle switch (1) aluminum bar (approximately 3.5" long)

I cut off the tabs, dremel it smooth, add a small plastic scrap inside to make it flush and then glue it onto the aluminum. For this I used a small black square because that looked like it was there in the photo (if not I'll just redo one). Check out my build here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/BrodustrialLightAndMagic/photos/?tab=album&album_id=466932914243441 This is just a fun facebook page for the guys who come and do work with me, at some point I'll probably do a WIP / Tutorial if my boy Taylor @Ruthar doesn't do it first! He's very skilled and also very detailed in his forum threads, he makes them very easy to follow with links and all sorts of organization I just throw up photos and explanations hahaha! Bag is done as far as I can tell: You can also look at the photobucket album for more shots, or is someone needs anything specific let me know I'd be happy to take photos or explain if need be.

Quick update - the metal loops arrived, I replaced them and they look perfect: My wife (who is actually also an approved TB) quickly claimed it as her new bag/purse so I have to finish the rank bar then make myself another one hahaha! First thing she did was put her baby Jabba in it .... first thing I did was punch it.

Don't want to "hi-jack" anything but figured I'd list the sources here that I'm using for my build. This way I can get some feedback and if it's good others can have some more links!! If you want to make your own rank bar: Bar itself is aluminum flat bar found at Lowe's. I use the 1" wide and 1/16" thick for this whereas I use the 1/8" thick for costumes. Thinner is better for the way I plan to attach them, but I have both if I decide to switch it (or if you guys feel it should be thicker). I'm estimating 9cm or 3 1/2" long, that's what fellow Garrison member Taylor used and what I guessed to be good: Gonna used cap rivets for the edges, for both aesthetic and functional (to go through both the bar and bag to attach it). I have these on hand not sure the length, look like 1/4" and a longer post then what we use for TK knee plates. I got this pack a long time ago from AC Moore, it had various sizes in it lol: Edit / Update: Using a Medium: Cap 5/16" (8 mm), Post 5/16" (8 mm), Base 5/16" (8 mm) which can be found here: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/steel-double-cap-rivets/double-cap-rivets-medium-nickel-plate-100-pk Switches are again the commonly used ones for Imperial rank bars: https://www.newark.com/eao/01-901-2/lens-rectangular-red/dp/50B3010?ost=01-901.2&scope=partnumberlookahead&exaMfpn=true&searchref=searchlookahead&iscrfnonsku=false&ddkey=http%3Aen-US%2FElement14_US%2Fw%2Fsearch Strap (belt) attachment: I'm using binding posts found at Lowe's. They have all sorts of sizes (post size) and the 3/8" ones fit perfectly: Edit / Update: Found more accurate, solid ones at Tandy Leather. The other ones still work fine and are easier to purchase in person in smaller increments but if you want the ones I am now using they are here: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/chicago-screws/screw-post-3-8-10-mm-nickel-plated-10-pk For the metal loop I used a random "D" ring I had lying around and hammered it flat, lmao, just as a test - so don't go by my current photos in my Brodustrial album. I have these on order which I believe will be more accurate and do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O2TW63E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hope that helps, if anything looks wrong please let me know!!!

lmao what? I had to make sure it's punch worthy!! Already we have like 8 members making or wanting to make them so I scored another few bags and belts hahaha! I'm going to the store today to pick up larger D rings and some more Chicago screws. Fun fact ... if you ask for them as "Chicago screws" at Lowes they rudely tell you they have no idea what that is and they don't have any. When you show the item to them they politely tell you it's called a "binding post". Not kidding.

Figured it out, using D rings and chicago screws, seam ripped the buckle part off and sewed the tab on the bag. Waiting for the switches (I ran out a while back) to arrive next week and I'll finish up and attach the rank bar. Keeping progress shots on my fun facebook building page here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/BrodustrialLightAndMagic/photos/?tab=album&album_id=466932914243441

Anyone have details on how the belt is attached to the bag?

Does anyone know what the end round parts are? I've made plenty of rank bars so sourcing the square switches and metal plate are easy enough, just need to figure out what size and / or item the ends are?

Victoria did a fantastic job on this and pretty much all by herself! A few of us helped her with some minor assembly details but she gets all the credit and we're happy she finished and it came out looking great

It's funny, my OCD made me fill in and drill new holes for the last two SC kits I helped members build... but then out of nowhere we just got a third member who's kit arrived and the tank topper had the spot in the center now hahaha! I was so happy Maybe SC made the change on his topper so now it's centered better?