Biker Scout Boots Tutorial

[OnkelPaschulke]

Bless my wife! Just told her what I‘m looking for and one hour later she presented me these boots… :-D


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[Hiker Scout]

Getting started on my boots using this tutorial. 

I do have  question. I see the few photos posted here but not Cheezwoopy's final product. 

Question about the sole cut outs. Most of the cut outs shows look to be deeper and a single cut. Where as in the scoutopedia the original shoes have 2 sections cut into the sole [ ] [   ] all the way around with a little bar uncut between them. Are both ways acceptable for Lancer or does it have to be exact from the scoutopedia?

Is there a template available?

[BikerScout007]

9 minutes ago, ChrisA said:

Getting started on my boots using this tutorial. 

I do have  question. I see the few photos posted here but not Cheezwoopy's final product. 

Question about the sole cut outs. Most of the cut outs shows look to be deeper and a single cut. Where as in the scoutopedia the original shoes have 2 sections cut into the sole [ ] [   ] all the way around with a little bar uncut between them. Are both ways acceptable for Lancer or does it have to be exact from the scoutopedia?

Is there a template available?

Both ways are acceptable for Lancer.  The idea is not to imitate the originals exactly but just to get the general idea down.  Many hiking boots have no teeth at all so adding them just gives them a little more accuracy.

No template as far as I know.  Just look at the photos in the Scoutopedia and do your best imitation.  

[OnkelPaschulke]

Today I recieved some Vinyl and I'm a little bit unsure If it's thick enough especially for the bootleg in terms of stability. Does the structure look ok to you guys?

[Chopper]

That does look a little thin, but it's the really heavy grain that's a bit concerning to me. There can be a very slight grain in the vinyl, but that seems like it's too much.

[OnkelPaschulke]

That's the problem with buying the stuff online... the pictures are often misleading... 😒

[LightBrownPillow]

Great tutorial! I'm getting to work on my own boots this weekend. One question: In the original pictures you did not cinch down the lacing at all before gluing it seems. Assuming you tighten them up when you wear, would you recommended leaving them loose like that during construction?  Seems to me it might wrinkle the vinyl during tightening if it is all glued on with slack laces?

[Retrofire]

I actually removed the original boot laces and replaced them with tennis shoe laces so they would sit flat and not impede the vinyl. Some folks also do away with the laces completely. I would recommend not lacing the boot all the way up as it makes it difficult to get your foot in your boot (at least it does for me). 

[kayelbe]

And yet another option:  Along with the flat laces, I also used those barrel cinch things like on a sleeping bag drawstring.  That way I didn't have to even TIE the laces.

 

Also....don't do like me and get E6000 on the laces or you won't be able to cinch 'em up at all.

[Aradun]

I didn’t apply any glue near the laces, and keep in mind that the dog bone will cover most of the lacing anyway.

[Harbinger]

Is there a reason most of the boots have the hook Velcro facing towards the leg (inward)?

Isn’t it usually best practice to have the loop/soft Velcro inward so that it does not damage fabric on the wearer?

[FO3Winger]

If I’m reading the question right, It’s so that the softer hook Velcro can be sewn onto the jumpsuit and it can be laundered easier. If both sides of the Velcro are matched up properly you shouldn’t experience any damage. At least that’s been my thinking in how I’ve done mine. I use heavier duty Velcro for durability and so it wouldn’t make much of a difference either way except for the laundry aspect of it.

edit: I took your question as the Velcro inside the boot underneath where the holster goes. Doh.

[Chopper]

29 minutes ago, Harbinger said:

Is there a reason most of the boots have the hook Velcro facing towards the leg (inward)?

Isn’t it usually best practice to have the loop/soft Velcro inward so that it does not damage fabric on the wearer?

Folks are doing it that way, b/c the photo evidence indicates that's how it was done with the production boots.

That said, which velcro side is facing inwards on the back of the boots is absolutely not stipulated in the CRL, nor is it something that we look for in Level 2 reviews. If you want to do it the other way around, then you're free to go that route and it's a non-issue.

[ridersanon71]

For the CA Gorrila Glue is it the Clear or the fabric one as i am not sure?

Thanks again

 

[Chopper]

It doesn't need to be Gorilla Glue specifically. CA glue is cyanoacrylate, commonly sold as crazy glue or super glue (and others). It is usually clear and is different from fabric glue. 

[Scarif20J]

On 5/26/2019 at 10:17 PM, DaygoErm said:

Thank you for this tutorial! Great help! Was able to complete boots for my kids biker. Added garage sale sign in boot too for rigidity. I even upgrade the laces to elastic. So just slip foot in and go.

 

 

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I know it’s been a while since your post, but what did you use to fuse the yard sale sign to the boot vinyl? Thanks!

[Harbinger]

On my boots I used some heatbond, but YMMV - I used leather vs. sign plastic. I imagine E6000 or a flexible CA glue would work too.

[Scarif20J]

Are flat top rivets acceptable on the holster/boots? Or are the ones I see technically eyelets?

[Harbinger]

You want 1/8”/3mm pop rivets. Not cap rivets or any other kind.

 

There’s a lot missing (or incorrect, like the toe strips) in this tutorial, from an accuracy/info/L2 standpoint, FWIW.

[Chopper]

1 hour ago, Scarif20J said:

Are flat top rivets acceptable on the holster/boots? Or are the ones I see technically eyelets?

 

52 minutes ago, Harbinger said:

You want 1/8”/3mm pop rivets. Not cap rivets or any other kind.

Harbinger is correct. You should use 1/8" diameter pop rivets for the Scout costume.

[Tb5628]

On 7/10/2021 at 1:57 PM, OnkelPaschulke said:

Thanks for checking with the armorers@Chopper My wife just found these. They look at least a little bit lighter than the dockers and have a one tone Sole and no stiching.




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I know this post is a little old (I deleted the boot pic to save space on the response. @OnkelPaschulke never actually told us what the boot was his wife found. Do you remember what brand or style these were? The Kingshow boots available these days are either not in my size or are the two tone soles. Looking for alternatives that others have use.

[DukeOfNachos]

Ozark trail (Walmart) has one that I used for mine, single tone sole as well

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Men-s-Troy-Boots/931045664

[OnkelPaschulke]

6 hours ago, Tb5628 said:

I know this post is a little old (I deleted the boot pic to save space on the response. @OnkelPaschulke never actually told us what the boot was his wife found. Do you remember what brand or style these were? The Kingshow boots available these days are either not in my size or are the two tone soles. Looking for alternatives that others have use.

Well I did somewhere else. 😂 But unfortunately they seem to be no longer avaiable here in germany...

https://www.zalando.de/kappa-kombo-schnuerstiefelette-beige-brown-10k41a01r-b11.html

 

[Tb5628]

@OnkelPaschulke thanks for sharing your old post! Not only for the boots, but I thought it was a great reference for everything else you worked on. 

[Tb5628]

6 hours ago, DukeOfNachos said:

Ozark trail (Walmart) has one that I used for mine, single tone sole as well

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Men-s-Troy-Boots/931045664

I looked at these during my search. How did you work with that extra lip above the base of the sole? Is that where you had your vinyl go to? Or did you cut it flush for the two different sole layers?