Aradun

Looking fantastic Sven! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You both look great! And welcome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should check out page four of Sven’s [mention]HSM76 [/mention] build thread. He is using furniture grade white leather he picked up off of eBay. You can see in his photos the quality of the leather is much thicker than Tandy’s deer skin. His work is excellent and the leather boots look incredible. It’s well worth a look if you’re still thinking about constructing your own leather boots. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19916-tk-24576-who-also-wants-to-be-tb/page/4/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take notice too that it’s his “second” pair. [emoji6]. You’re one lucky man Ed. Clearly your search methods, perseverance, and keen eye are indication that you are indeed a true Scout. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback!

They’re really coming together now. What a difference from your originals! Wait till you see the difference once you suit up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I managed to sew the dog bone to the tube. My thought wasn’t so much as to emulate the build of the originals as it was to prevent the dog bone from tearing away from the boot during a troop if it was merely glued to the boot. To stitch the dog bone to the tube: 1) first line up the db in the position you want and then trace the out edge on the tube. 2) Make hash marks on the db and tube so the you can line it up properly for sewing it on the machine. 3) Using a pencil, draw out your stitch line on the db. I made a heavy mark on my start and end points so that I could better see those point when running the db and tube though the sewing machine. 4) remove the tube from the boot, and use tape to secure the db in place on the tube once you have the hash marks lined up. I used regular Scotch tape to make clean up easy in case the tape was stitched while running my lines. Apply tape to the front and the back of the db and tube to keep them from shifting while stitching. 4) Run both of your lines in the sewing machine. 5) attaching the other side of the db is a bit tricky because it won’t lie flat on the tube like with first side did. Here’s where you really need to secure it well with tape because it will want to shift on you as you run it through the machine. 6) Run your lines for this side and you’ll end up with a finished piece that looks like this: Then glue the tube to the boot as per Cheesewhoppy’s tutorial. The db really is secure because half of it is now sown directly to the tube on either side. It’s not going anywhere. I then used a little CA glue to attach the db to the toe cap by applying just a little glue along the back side where the stitch lines where. It was just enough to tack it down. The pins are there to hold things in place while the glue cures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks to me like your pouches are missing the attachment tabs at the top and that your flap is not a single piece. The bottom of the pouch should be in line with the bottom of your bund and the top of the attachment tabs should be in line with the top of you bund. Bikerscout007 has detailed info on the pouches including a pattern for sowing the pouches. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19200-pouch-dimensions/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazing work. Working with vinyl, I stitched the dog bone to the tube and then glue the part that overlapped the toe cap to the toe cap. I was trying to figure out how they managed to stitch everything for the film. Seeing how you are working the leather and how the toe cap retains it shape, it all makes sense. This is a great tutorial. Keep it coming! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great idea! I doubt I’ll have my armor in by the 4th or if I do that I’ll be approved by then, but hey, the force might prove favorable. I’ll definitely donate regardless though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet!!! Yep...my envy still abounds if you were wondering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great news boss! I’m really looking forward to the Mountain Trooper CRL. It has a really great look to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boots: Using Cheesewhoopy’s Boot Tutorial. The only thing I didn’t differently was apply an initial layer of E6000 on the toe cap of the boot and let it set for about an hour before applying a second liberal coat of E6000 before fitting the toe cap with the vinyl. Greenyone suggested that tip in Cheesewhoppy’s tutorial and it worked well. I gotta say that the boots are my favorite part of the build so far. The tutorial was spot on, cutting and stitching was easy peasy, and the final fit is excellent. I’m quite pleased with the outcome. Here’s some pics. Front is glued. Back is not glued yet, just fitted and tacked. Still need to trim the toe, add the 1/2” toe strap and then the dog bones. I’m toying with the idea of trying to stitch the dog bone to the back tube of the boot and then glueing the portion that covers the front as usual. I’ll try to tackle that on Monday. If anyone see issues of concern, please let me know.

This advice was spot on. I was experiencing the same thing. Thanks Kurt! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chopper’s thread is an excellent resource for what your looking for. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking good boss! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ed, Sven's WIP mentioned that he picked up white furniture leather off of ebay. He describes the process for smoothing the grain out of the leather. He did a great job if you didn't catch his post last week. It's worth a look. I for one would never have thought to look at furniture leather. Tandy doesn't carry white leather aside from the real thin deer skin, which won't hold up well to trooping. Apparently the process to get the leather white is difficult and costly according to a buddy of mine who is a leather worker that works for Tandy. I'm sure Sven would provide you with the seller's info on ebay if you were interested.

I too own a DVH blaster and echo Stroker’s sentiments. They’re top notch quality and when I received mine back in Dec. ran abt $110 with shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks solid. My only advice would be to leave a little of the soul above the top “boxes” around the heel, and not cut it all the way through to the top. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good. What a difference too! With all that effort to take in the undersuit you might as well shoot for lancer. The only real added expense is the leather for the riding patches which should run about $22-$25 bucks. Everything else for lancer is really just attention to detail: carving boot soles, watching measurements, material choices, etc. I think [mention]Stroker [/mention] created a pdf chart/excel file that outlined the differences between basic and lancer as a reference guide. If lancer is something you want to shoot for in the future, it’s easier to do it now than pull things apart or having to redo them in the future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice and clean too. Well done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“My 4th pair” he says[emoji6]. Envy abounds. Someday I hope to find just “a pair.” Size 10 is tough to come by. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update: - I trimmed the mud flap up 1”. - I rounded the edges of my front riding patches so no sharp corners would be visible while wearing the codpiece. I repost modified templates for the patches later this week. - I attached the strap to the front of the codpiece. I don’t know if anyone else has done this, but rather than creating a small 1/4 or 1/2 seam on the strap, I folded it in on itself creating 3 layers of elastic strap and stitched it together abt 1.25” in all. That is the stitched area seen above. What this did in effect was virtually eliminate the stitched area of the elastic strap’s ability to pull on the cod. In other words when you pull in the strap, the stitched area of the strap does not flex or stretch with the rest of the strap. I think it may help to reduce the dreaded crease that can occur on some codpieces because there is very little tension on the codpiece itself when pulling on the strap. - I created a small insert for my pouches out of abs plastic sheeting that I had left over from my home build of a DLT-19. My Plastruct Welding Cement was dried up, so not wanting to make a trip to Home Depot or wait for delivery from Amazon I used regular pvc primer and cement to put it together. Worked like a charm. I Need to pick up some white spray paint to finish them off. This insert will keep the pouch from sagging and help maintain the pouch’s overall shape while also allowing the pouch to remain accessible and useful. I didn’t want to come up too high b/c it’d make getting my hand in the pouch to retrieve contents difficult and would limit what I could put in my pouches. Pouch on the left has the insert. Pouch on the right does not. Overall the insert measures 4 7/8” x 2” x 1.5”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, your weathering techniques are phenomenal! Helmet, boots, leather, belt boxes all look fantastic. Your attention to detail is excellent. I’m saving this thread for reference down the line, as the ST would be my next build once I finish the scout. When that time comes, I’m definitely reaching out to pick your brain. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk